samshirley001

OSD arrived today its a clone of the minim OSD, took me some bodging to get it working but should be cool with the FPV requires a FTDI adapter to change the settings on it, plenty off ebay, for about

even moar quad buildan installed the telemetry unit, this is what MAKES this board. with a windows pc, or an android tablet via a USB OTG cable, 99p off ebay, you can see all the data from the quad, such as height, battery, amp draw, calculated mA/h remaining, live feedback of its position with google maps as reference. the best thing though, its that you can control it with it, hook up a xbox controller to a conputer and fly it with that, set GPS waypoints, and even get it to activate servos remotly. its an essential piece of kit for all APM users. GPS mast, cheapo one from ebay, with the 3DR GPS/compass module too. ardupilot 2.6 has an external compass, what it good for multirotors, as things can interfere with the compass. the 2.5 is still a popular board, with an inbuilt compass, but its more aimed at airplanes as the electronics can be mounted further away from the control board. also added the LED light strips, great things from hobbyking, too bad the sticky back to them has gone off, so i had to superglue them to the chassis, they are stupidly bright, great for flying at night time. can be easily seen from >300ft height. White front, red back. FPV camera mounted too, to be secured with a piece of foam tape, should help any vibrations, good for a clear image when flying. Got a OSD in the post too, that should be cool for flying. FINISHED the build, just needs configuring with the software. This is the thing that usually puts people off the APM boards, with the DJI being more plug and play, but you can get the quad to automatically sort all the tuning and settings out for you, will go through in some detail

i get all my wires from hobbyking

the only thing that isnt really legal on this thing to my knowledge is the FPV transmitter, its too powerful apparently. the 433mhz telemetry can have its power adjusted to UK legal limits.

moar quad buildan re-soldered the esc batt wires, wish i could get more of this white cabling, found it on ebay, but only up-to 14awg. fine for the quad but i want it for my cars all the esc's inside the frame. time to do the APM power module normally, this will also power the APM board, but im not going to use it for that, its JUST going to be used to measure the voltage and amp draw. landing gear on the bottom deck installed, then screwed to the rest of the quad because of the 3A bec im using, im also disabling the 0.5a bec on each of the ESC's. mostly to help remove interference from them, but they also allow the esc to run slightly cooler, in theory making it a bit more stable. easily done, just remove the red wire, and no voltage gets sent to the control board. board on the quad. reciver installed on the front. FPV TX installed on the rear. Still left to be installed Install GPS/Compass unitInstall 433mhz Telemetry moduleconfigure and install minim OSD modueInstall LED LightingConfigure APMRe-balance propsBalance motor

Are you going to bashfest this year? Im pretty much just bringing aircraft, have a spare transmitter so i could buddy you up to mine and see if quads are your cup of tea. as tam said, you NEED training, quads are the easiest aircraft to fly, they fly similar to a heli, but are more stable, and dont require delicate movements, the hubsan H4 is a good choise, great for flying in the house if its windy and you wanna annoy the dog/wife/other and dont have expensive repair bills. MAX of

So, after a nasty crash, mostly involving the wind and a brownout, had to get a new replacement frame, but i thought, might as well do this one nice, so i am doing a nice build thread of it yes i am building inside, inc soldering, and on the floor, cant drop stuff off the floor. frame is question -Hobbyking 470mm H quad this is apprently the V1 version, only difference i see is the landing gear is no longer solid. hopefully they made it slightly stronger too, as i had to mod mine with cable ties to make it not bend on every single goddamm landing. the electronics im using are NTM 2830 900KV motors these are rather powerful for their size, only pulling about 7.5a each on hover. short shaft version too so no bent shaft after a crash. Afro 30a esc's fantastic ESC's, light, smooth, easy to upgrade firmware 1245 carbon Fiber Props strong, light, motors only come off warm with them too. balanced myself on my prop balancer too Fatshark 250mw FPV transmitter for use with my fatshark goggles, also has the cloverleaf antennas on there for better signal Turnigy 3a UBEC with noise reduction didnt have this on previous build, might stop it from having brownouts. 3D Robotics APM 2.6, with GPS/compass unit, and battery monitor i think this is the best control board. period. no arguing. can do so much with it, got the telemetry unit on the way, as my last one died in a crash. makes it so much more powerful, can do waypoints, control via a game controller on a pc, hook up to an android tablet too and do loads of cool stuff. not pictured is my fatshark CMOS camera, the LED light strips, velcro for the batteries and all other cabling. the batteries i will be using for this are 3s 3700 25c and all controled via a turnigy 9XR One of the first things i did this time is remove the bullet connectors, and directly soldered longer wires to them, turnigy 16awg black this time, less weight. reason i did this is because if i solder them properly, it cant come off mid flight, what can be rather disasterous. pls ignore my soldering skills all 4 motors done, next is getting them attatched to the arms. arms all layed out, made of hollow aluminium tubing. motor mouts made of a glass fiber material, not very thick, but i do have some others that are at least twice as thick. not gonna use them for a moment. mounts held on with 2 screws and some small nyloc nuts underneath, does the job all 4 done. holding the motors in with 2 screws, obviously threadlocked too. motor wires fit nicely in there, labeled them too so i can tell easily when soldering. more terrible soldering, put the wires directly on the esc's, so they cant come off and to save weight. all 4 done. so far, this took me like 2 and a half hours. have work at 4, so will continue when i finish later tonight.

tell ya what, you should try and put ER9X on your turnigy 9x, comes as standard on the 9xr, and its amazing, especially the mixing. im at the point where i would like more than 8 channels on the thing! some of the cool things you can do, is assign any switch to anything, can have it so you flick a switch, and it changes the aelaron and evelator controls and sends it to a gimbal, and flick it back to control the aircraft. would be cool in gps hold for fpv

those are some big ol foams on that, my GT10 has them trued right down to the rim!

at least a company has finally released a desirable rtr as a kit, being an experienced rc enthusiast, nothing beats making a fresh kit, and then running it for the first time. you learn so much about the model, how it works, how to easily maintain the thing, and best of all, you can put your electronics in. pretty much all my kits, i can take apart, and re-assemble with very little effort, and without reading a manual as i do it now.

Intilect 7200 80c's currently

i charge mine using a rc charger

next on your list of upgrades should be carbon props, i found they helped deecending a lot

make sure to cover the control board, light affects the barometer a lot, resulting in poor loiter performance, some electrical tape over it all apart from the lights will do

i was told it had to be line of sight, with someone watching making sure its okay, not sure on altitude

at least its got proper timing adjustment, unlike the v3s

now with leds and 433mhz uplink. also tidied away the esc's inside the frame

bmup

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121344346222?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649h

battery requirements are more defined by size and weight in aircraft. i run 3700 25c's in mine, motors are 900kv 2830 with a 12x4.5 prop. get about 7-8mins out of them, with hover just below half throttle.

the xv-01 is basically built for rally. sealed belt so debris cant get in.

i wouldnt touch the naza with a 10ft bargepole the ardupilot can be made tonnes better than a naza, and its only