SnoopMaxx

I wanted to add a photo but I have no idea how to delete the old attachments to free up space ?

Same idea I used on one of my drawings

Yeah it does Next best thing might be a planetary gear I also made a spacer plate that will allow you to mount the 775 on the original gearbox

I have the 775 motor in my 3906 I got the drawing for my mount if you want it 3906 motor mount for 775 motor

That's what those long spacers are for Cool build I like those diff housings

You should get at least 34mph But if your running 2S instead of 4S Then it's closer to the 20 Mph

I modded a set of 3905 idlers and replaced the roll pins in the topshaft with solid steel pins and I'm using a RRP double slipper

I got almost all my Mad Force parts from kyoshospares on Ebay He's in UK so super fast shipping And my 4ws

Here's what I did My inspiration And a short video Morten

The first version of RPM's new Maxx bulkheads are flawed They did their R&D using only the T-Maxx chassis and never test fit onto any E-Maxx. Both front and read fasteners are 4mm too short that connect to the chassis. The rear as other have said needs to be dremel'ed a lot to fit. They know these issues now My 3906 chassis with the 3903 steering upgrade They might fit without cutting if your using the stock 3906 steering 3x20mm bolts in stead of the 3x16mm for the chassis All done with new bulkhead, bulkhead braces and front bumper

Done Oh and here's a little treat for you Morten

Here's 2 more Morten

I had allot of fun building a freestyle track Video And the crashes and jumps on tape Morten

Your a bit off regarding the new tyre, I use stock Clod size tyres but spot on about the Mad Force knuckle I narrowed the wheel so it would clear the steering arm on the knuckle and at the same time get a slightly ballonish look I can't even use the stock USA-1 wheels 'cos the steering arm on the knuckle is longer on the re-realesed Mad Force compared to the older version Here's how it looks with the narrowed wheel And if it was full width

The template for the Cab section Still need to make 2 more hub's How I narrowed the wheels

Nahh, don't think I'll run it ...It's gonna sit on my shelf next to the telly NOOOT

They are 271mm hex to hex now, so about 301mm stock I used a Ridgid tube cutter to shorten the long side to match the short side and used 2 short dogbones in each axle When you use the tube cutter you have to brace the open end of the axle tube with a rod or similar

Thanks goys Jack I'm using Kyosho Mad Force axles I narrowed them by 30mm to get the diff centered The chassis is cut on a water jet

Version 4 Time to build Made a new motor mount, centered the motor over the gearbox and got the battery tray in the back now The wiring is still a bit spaghetti like and I got my Rumbler tyres

Hey I'm designing a Monster Truck chassis, It has an E-Maxx 2 speed gearbox with a 2350Kv motor, 3 servos and a 150A esc. I use Twin Force axles, Clod Buster wheels and Nitro USA-1 tyres It's 420mm long and has a Wheel Base of 335mm and the top cage will be separate, with spacers between the side and main chassis Here are a few photos Version 4 CAD drawing (should be the final version but that might change) Prototype in 5mm black delrin and version 2 in 5mm alloy Version 2 with short shocks Version 2 with long shocks, gearbox and servos installed (Why I need the version 4) 2 speed shifting servo Servo testing with reversing Y harness F150 body E-Maxx 3906 body Morten

You forgot the E-Maxx (My vote) Clod Buster TXT Ground Pounder Mad Force

Get the Traxxas E-Maxx Two-Speed Conversion Kit http://www.modelspor...rch_string=3998

You need truggy body posts or similar Kyosho have a few onroad and rally bodies, but the wheel base is longer Ofna has a few bodies for the DM-1 in 13" wheel base

Short answer, Yes http://www.deltaplastik.it/index.php?p=prodotti&l=eng&cat1=6&cat2=11