babylon

Give this a watch.

So, I'll assume someone here has experience with These, There gonna be for Muggy or the Hong Nor, There old I know, But any good.

This come up in a THREAD from me not the other day, Relativenewbyseb was using ECX Ruckus spurs and then moved onto Helion.

I think it is, 2000KV used to be the defacto standard, And nothing has changed, Especially when it comes in buggy's.

I'll agree and disagree, It will be a missile, It will give you low run times, So I would look at any number of other motors with a lower KV, The Cheap 2250KV black cans are good(I have noticed there no 25 quid anymore), I only say cos I have one of the fakes on my shelf that was in my S350, Now that car is light, But the run times were atrocious, It just seemed so inefficient, I have a black can 2250 in my Muggy, Now that truck is heavy with Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 wheels and alloy arms, But still returned run times 50% longer than the S350. If there both the same sort of price I would go for the Black can over the Castle fake, Just another opinion.

Number 1 is a Smartech Magic Wheel.

Seen a few of these new style GoolRC ESC popping more lately, If reliable they look cracking value for 6s.

That right there is exactly what I'm talking about, We have no idea how many there are around here with the same or similar problem now or in the future, That there is the sort of knowledge/Information I like to retain, Even if so I can pickup a cheap Firestorm cos some poor sucker got an empty search result on eBay for hpi 86946, Which I just did.

I put a set of HPI Trophy internals in the centre diff of the Berserker, And a set from the MP7 in the rear, So no reason a set of Kyosho won't fit in the HPI diff.

This is all I'm trying to help out with, I get that some cars are looked over because a parts search in eBay comes back with no results, But with so much interchangeable, There is no reason why it should sway a decision as much as it dose. I also understand that it's not that easy for someone that's new to the game, And as I said at the very start But why rule out a certain kit because a diff or arm search comes back empty, When in reality, It doesn't. A lot here have swapped parts, If we passed this stuff on more often, Before long we would all have petty good combined knowledge of what fits what, Witch can help to get yourself and others out of trouble, Or not sway you from buying that kit on sale because the model has been discontinued. But it appears that certain ones who have been doing this for some time and should know better, Still need to be spoon fed parts.

As Mond said, I would say most, Once they start to change diff housings there out the region of a version tweak and into new model territory, This is the differences on there site IMPROVED SUSPENSION GEOMETRY LARGE-BORE 16MM SHOCKS WITH TAPERED SPRINGS CENTER DOG BONE DRIVE SYSTEM INCLUDES OPTIONAL LIGHTWEIGHT OUTDRIVES, 48T SPUR GEAR, ADJUSTABLE HINGE PIN BRACES AND ALUMINUM REAR BEARING INSERTS GEN 3 RADIO TRAY ADJUSTABLE ALUMINUM FRONT AND REAR PIVOTS WITH INSERTS BRAKE CALIPER SPRINGS IMPROVED BODY AND WING OPTIONAL WICKERBILL (SOLD SEPERATELY) ALUMINUM BEARING INSETS MULTIPLE SWAY BARS INCLUDED 5MM TURNBUCKLES IMPROVED TITANIUM CARBO-NITRIDE SHOCK SHAFT AND HINGE PIN COATING METAL SERVO INSETS IMPROVED DROOP SCREW SYSTEM But if you have 30 minutes, This should tell you all you need to know.

My God, What is your problem, No, I don't factor in spares, Cos I have never had trouble getting them, I had trouble 30 years ago when the internet never existed, When getting any part for anything was a week long exercise and a cheque in the post, But now it's easy, You might get shivers down your spine when your part number search comes back blank, But I've been doing this long enough to know what I can and can't use in it's place, And happy to use a little bit of ingenuity, So it don't bother me. I'll finish by say at least I'm bringing something constructive to the Forum, Some months back someone asked about a Hong Nor diff he couldn't get , I put up pictures and measurements showing he could use a Berserker or Kyosho diff as a straight swap, Hong Nor CRT universal drive shafts will fit a HPI savage, the front hingpin holders from the Berserker and the Kyosho I also now know fit the front of a CRT, So probably work with the buggy as well, And the rear Kyosho hingpin holders also fit the berserker. Maybe none of this is of interest to you, But some here have these trucks or buggy's, Some won't be put off a good product just because they can't get a screw in a packet with the part number and logo printed on it, Some people are happy to try an arm or drive shaft from another model rather than sit in the corner crying and moaning they can't get spoon fed parts, Like I said, At least I'm bringing something constructive to the forum, What have you done lately.

I needed one of them plastic Hingpin retainer jobies for my Thunder Tiger S3, Happen to have an Sworkz s350 here, Guess what, S350 retainers were exactly, And I mean exactly the same size as the S3.

I don't know crawling, But I think it's the same across this hobby, People a scared, Or apprehensive to recommend anything that's not the norm, been like that since I can remember. You wanted an ESC back in the day, Castle, Don't even think of recommending one of them clone Hobbywing things, Want a motor, Castle Neu, Don't talk to me about them cheap clone Leopard motor. It's like the other thread I replied to about a buggy, The Hyper VS got recommended, I recommended a Thunder Tiger that was the same price, Better specked, come with free wheels and arms, And just as strong and reliable as the Hyper, Got passed over as if it never existed, If it was a Hyper, It would be the bargain buggy of all bargains. Like I said, No nothing about crawling, But Holmes are where Castle was, Where Neu was, Where Savox was, But like myself, Many got bargain Hobbywing and Leopard motors back in the day, I get people can only recommend what they know, But if they only know one thing, It's no recommendation.

They from Australia.

Nothing for long time, I need to buy something.

I try not to let the parts support sway me to much on my decision making when it comes to kits, I think the only time it matters is when your talking about a particular part of a car. Let me explain, Example here is gonna be the HobbyKing Berserker, I know some here have had it and got shot, I love it, I still have a new one in it's box, Now the the front lower and upper arms are pretty unique, So could be a problem, But I have a few extra sets so I'm covered, But everything else. I was out the other day running hard over a nice dirt track with lots of undulating dips, The sort of stuff that sorts the mechanical men from the boys, Well two Berserker diffs failed the test, I did expect it, But was prepared, So home we go, Now I already new that HPI diff gear set fitted spot on and I had a new set of these, But I needed a set for the rear, Having an old Kyosho MP7 sitting in a box in bits and knowing the diff was the same size, I took it apart and whipped out the gears, Now they had a different tooth count, Other than that, Perfect fit. I then notice that I had bent the front inside hingpin holder, It is alloy, But too many cut out making it weak, So looking at the MP7 chassis I see the the holders are still on, So lets see This is the front inside Berserker Holder This is the MP7 inside holder This is the Berserker holder on top of the MP7 holder This is the front Berserker holder This is the MP7 front holder This is the MP7 on top of the Berserker What was more amazing is that the MP7 gearbox had 2 plastic dimples to help position the inside holder which had 2 holes near the bottom Turned out the Berserker gearbox had the exact same dimples So MP7 hingpin holders fitted with no modifications What I'm trying to say is that it shows how many of these companies have have copied each other over the years, And we are not talking clones, How is it that other than tooth count you can swap the whole diff or just internals from a HPI Trophy to a Kyosho MP7, Is that coincidence, So much stuff is interchangeable these days. It just go's to show that hope is never lost when that part number returns zero results in google.

Err, Thunder Tiger, It uses the Hobbywing 150 amp 6s ESC 👍, Ripper 2000KV Motor 👍, You get free stuff👍, It's built like a tank👍, It looks great👍, By far the best value for money and then some👍. And it's not another Hyper VS👍👍.

None of them, I would buy This, From Germany so no import duty(At the moment), 150Amp 6s Hobbywing , So that's bulletproof, It's a Thunder Tiger, And there bullet proof, 2000KV motor, A spare set of wheels, And a spare set of front and back arms, All for £327 delivered, Why this is not top of every what RTR 1/8 buggy I have no idea, Just buy it.

You could give Answer-RC a call, There the importer, Says out of stock, But they may have some knocking about, Worth an ask.

You can't look at a nitro like a real car or a 1/5 petrol, If anything, That is a low tick over, Don't forget that at full tilt these things are running between 25 and 30 odd thousand RPM. To go from low tick over to full chat in the blink of an eye takes a lot of fuel and air, It's fine to get the tick over to the speed that the clutch just bites and then just back off a bit. It may sound too fast, But that's how Nitro engines work. This is a good 8 minute watch

I think it was Malcolm Wilson of the Ford rally Team who said. 'The reason why all/most of the rally teams are based in the UK is because, If I ask a Japaneses company make me a component, They'll say I can have 1000 units next year, But a UK company will make me 5 next week. I wouldn't be surprised if there are loads of blokes(And lases)in small units all over the country who could make you one, We are not the same as the US, Or China, Or Japan, We don't do Google or Microsoft Or Hitachi, 96% of businesses in the UK are under 9 employees, So when it comes to making one offs, We are as good as it gets.

This is one of them very very rare occasions were search is kind, From the looks of that picture it seems to be an old model, So have a read through these and you may be able to get a better idea of what the needle setting should be as the stock range doesn't seen to be set in stone. March 2010 April 2010 February 2012

Fair enough, But we all know someone that is, And ditching a perfectly good battery should be the last suggestion, Not the first. Worse come to worse, Just keep charging it until it's way out of balance, Then ditch, Thing is there not as fragile or dangerous as there made out to be, I have packs here that are puffed, With knackered cells, I still use them testing and powering up an ESC or something.

Jees, Why are so many around here so eager to chuck away batteries , Seems like as soon as someone say's they've scratched the sticker or something, The old salty water comes out, Crack the case open and solder it back on, you don't need to do it from a safe distance with a bomb disposal robot, A soldering iron will do just fine.