walkbythesea

That’s brilliant, thank you 👍

that would actually be awesome as I have wheels to paint too and that’s more likely to work for them

I’m contemplating painting the inside silver and the outside yellow - therefore getting a scale matt finish, but if it does get scraped it will show the “aluminium” body panel beneath... thoughts?

Forum life... feels like the old days Dave, but what we really need is a show calendar...

That helps loads, I’ve only just started building kits with lexan bodies, it’s a whole new world for me

Is the Tamiya ps-19 Camel yellow the closest lexan paint match for Camel Trophy replicas? I don’t have access to an accurate paint chart.

So glad to have found this thread 👍 Been working on my own Outlaw crawler and have actually come to a lot of the same conclusions you have... but keep burning motors running overgeared whilst my impatience to play outruns my gearbox delivery from China.....

Ally chassis and Zorro bumper arrived today - such a spectacular upgrade from stock, well worthwhile

Do your own research to be double sure, but I think this is the motor combo that most people recommend from GoolRC - not the one you’ve been looking at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3650-3300KV-Brushless-Motor-45A-ESC-Card-Combo-Car-Kit-For-1-10-RC-Car-Truck-/224358578537?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 the lower KV is more suitable for the Outlaw and closer to the factory BL spec ...and don’t cut the Deans plugs off to swap for Tamiya, put a £2 adaptor on instead or you’ll regret it when you switch to lipo, which you will do as brushless will eat nimh for breakfast, lunch and dinner and leave you hungry.

The easiest way to view it is kind of like Chinese Amazon - yes you will wait, but that’s the price of bargains... I’ve had no problem issues with them at all, and everything has been delivered within 2 to 3 weeks. But if you do have an issue be prepared that your tech support and customer service are on the other side of the planet, if you’re not up for that then buy local.

I have one of these, which has a more suitable Amps vs KV rating and very close to the factory brushless setup I have in my Outlaw [£26.82 17% OFF]Surpass Hobby Waterproof F540 V2 Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A ESC for 1/10 RC Vehicles RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood https://banggood.app.link/1ovRXecs8db Now whilst I’m incredibly happy with it I will say that it’s running in a Kyosho Tomahawk re:re - a MUCH lighter car - so I offer no opinion on longevity etc if you put one in a truck as big and heavy as an Outlaw.

Have others had much success with lowering the centre of gravity by moving stuff about to improve handling?

Thank you 👍

Sort of, it didn’t want to recalibrate at all to start with - now 3 out of five times it’ll be fine and the other 2 I’ll have to recalibrate again. I’ve since sprayed some switch cleaner into the on/off set switch and should find out this afternoon if that’s helped

Can someone please confirm for me that the stock pinions from the factory are: Brushed 17t Brushless 23t I’m just getting back into RC after many years and am finding it hard to find basic info like this 😂 I don’t need a replacement yet but have read that RW are a better solution, could anyone please provide the correct part numbers as I don’t know what pitch I need to get?

It’s alive! 😁

Any instructions for doing the calibration by light flashes, I searched google but maybe searched for the wrong thing???

Cool man, thank you - if you cut the switch off, what do you do instead to turn it on/operate the set button?

So I just thought I’d try messing with it again before work and when I switched it on it beeped and flashed for recalibration! Which I did and it worked... except I managed to have the reverse switch in the wrong position from messing with it yesterday.... so it would go backwards fast and forwards slow! So I turned it off and back on again and it returned to being a dumb lump - totally dead again except for the light sequence as above - which is making me wonder if it’s the on/off reset switch that’s actually dead...? Will spray some cleaner in it later and see what happens and strip it if that doesn’t help - either way I have an ESC being delivered today anyway

It won’t respond to the set button, the car got pretty wet - could the set button be malfunctioning?

I’m pretty certain the answer is that I’ve broken it, but just thought I’d ask anyway in the hope that someone might know if a hard reset is possible or something.., Long story short I plugged the lead into the receiver backwards by accident and now my ESC doesn’t work. Having plugged everything back in the correct way I can steer properly as normal - or swap the cables around and can steer with the trigger, so both channels of the receiver are working proportionally correctly - but I get no drive in either forward or reverse. When I turn it on I get a solid amber light and a red light that comes on then goes out but no beeps - the fan runs - but no other signs of life. Any hope or is it totally fried?

Does the Torro bumper bolt straight on? Is there any need to change any hardware or screws or does the bumper come with the screws it needs?