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Redback

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Posts posted by Redback

  1. Serviced the hpi savage xs then gave it a wee bash about, gears look brand new, cups wear out pretty fast and geared for 75mph+ a blast on 2s with the 4s esc monster power! wheelies on dirt no issues.
    High pressure washed and blow dryed, back on the lads shelf he wouldnt even know i had a play and maybe 20 jumps ๐Ÿ˜‰ haha

    Really fun little car, never regretted the purchase, hows the rs4 not as durable ๐Ÿ˜ž

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, Kyosho superten sports 2wd said:

    Usual UK Turbo 2000 rear arches gone. Sorry it's a keeper I really need to pull my finger out. Owned it since 2008.

    If you ever change your mind ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Theres a few out there for pennies but if its a common thing, understandable, the other option is a merc clk from the 2000s the old lap cars, love the clk look if a clk gt was on the table mmm ๐Ÿคค

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  3. 51 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:

    So my new motor/esc combo arrived today, omg there is control now! Only thing i didnt think of since i have the pro lighting system you cant plug the motor wire in for the reverse and stop lamps, but its kinda weird as sometimes when you go into reverse the stop lights come on and when reversing for a few seconds the reverse light comes on, so its a bit of a fail and a win at the same time. Since i lifted the suspension i figured i needed bigger wheels to finish it off so i liked the look of the mud slinger tyres (i am waiting on wide 2.2 rims to arrive so to fit them) but think i may have failed as they are only 20mm bigger than whats on already so only 10mm more all round if that makes sense but im not convinced i am going to be able to steer with them on! They are only 5mm bigger than the tyres that come standard on a high trail, am i missing something, are they really that much bigger?!

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    IMG_1842.jpeg

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    Those are huge and wont fit, they will scrub if not on everything atleast the shocks, rails and side trays.
    Also a note, you do not need fans on the motor or the esc, unless your planning on doing 50mph in it, they dont get hot, they run cool enough to no need fans, fans reduce your runtime and are not needed, they do sound fun "buzz" but its car not a fanย ๐Ÿ˜‰

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  4. never needed a metal motor plate, i know the metal parts if they are not traxass will not line up correctly and usally need some manual work / grinding to get them to seat together
    you also shouldnt need to gear down, unless you find it to fast, you will not have issues with torque

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  5. 1st drive, trimming the steering, touched a curb and snapped...
    rn_image_picker_lib_temp_4d8be391-6af0-4

    First feels arnt good, jittery and noisy, my cheap ftx have taken way worse and are fine ๐Ÿ˜ž hope its a once off and not a consistently weak part, otherwise wont bode well for speed running.

    Also read the spur gears melt in these, i have the aftermarket speed gears, its plastic ๐Ÿ˜ž doh

    Edit: Least the roller comes with 2 spare front uprights. Must be a known weak point, all fixed ๐Ÿ˜…

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  6. 3 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

    Ok thanks that makes sense, so is a 2800kv ok for a rock crawler?

    Yes its about spot on, as i have the full fat 2 speed, the high kv is fine as you can go low range for the technical stuff and highrange for long distances, went the high kv as can always gear down if more torque is needed (never is)
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    • Like 2
  7. What @Stormbringer said +focus on the portals and brass along with heavy wheels, then 2 stage foams to stop the tires folding over from all the extra weight.
    Due to the extra weight this will affect its durability long term
    eg roll overs that would be fine may snap panhards, so metal panhard is good, keep some things plastic to take the flex if there is a big roll.

    Stock servo and metal horn upgrade is worth it for turning power if your adding weight, aim for 35kg+ and 7.4v if you want it to really pull its weight, then some form of brushless setup or esc upgrade to push out full bec voltage and amps to the servo.

    The servo is only as good as its power source.

    Enjoy, fun trucks, will make it way more stable on side hills and a good crawler great.
    20221016_152106.jpg
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    • Like 2
  8. 8 hours ago, RC4WD fan said:

    sold my baja so have some pennies to buy all the brass for my trx4

    Can't go wrong there mate, good investment ๐Ÿ˜‰

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    Maybe ill do a 1/10 scale version, can see it fitting well enough, or maybe ill add a rocket motor and make a chassis for the body.

    • Like 2
  9. 1 hour ago, Grogg said:

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    I'm thinking of ordering this.ย  Since we've decided on our TT-02 challenge I've been loonkng into getting a rolling road/dynamo, and so far this is the only one I've been able to find for RC cars.

    Get some pipe, put in some 1/10 scale wheels and hubs, bolt to some metal, do this 4 more times and you have a rolling road. otherwise can fab one up with metal but just thinking how you could make one from off the shelf bnq parts.

    Plastic pipe, Bearings, Threaded rod and bolts, Aliminum angle plate. Poprivits. Tires and wheels that are spare and can go inside the pipe snugly and sit on the threaded bar.

  10. 3 hours ago, Grogg said:

    Has anybody here have any experience with pre ordering stuff specifically for RC use?ย  And if so what was the experience like, are there safe guards in place to stops people from not delivering as product and just taking the money and running, that the product will be delivered within the specified time frame, and so forth.ย ย  There's a product I really want to get, but can't find for sale anywhere other than via pre order.

    I would never pre order anything, whats the support going to be like, what about the company in a year.

    Pre orders for computer games should be a good example, people pre order stuff because, Fomo and there for are usally sold half complete products.
    There is no rush, get it when it releases, consider pre order a bit like kickstarter, unless its in some ones hands and they have a production line, your buying into the idea. Save your money and let some one else fund the idea and see if it goes anywere.
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    If your wanting something to measure speeds, cant go wrong with a skyrc gnss or similar product (garmin) that has a good reputation.

    • Like 2
  11. 3 hours ago, m4inbrain said:

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    Indeed, stiffer springs (and the sway bar you mentioned) as well as thicker oil or different shock pistons are the solutions. You gotta admit though that cranking up the ride height (and with that, centre of gravity) is nonsense when your issue is that your RC constantly falls over. It just doesn't make sense. The Outlaw isn't different than other RCs in that aspect, cranking down the collars means lifting the body. It very well could be that i'm missing something else and that cranking up the body does fix something - but in that case the effect still isn't changing the compression. That's more my point, not that it doesn't fix anything, but that it changes the spring rate/compression, because that isn't happening.ย 

    Forward mounted battery means the ride height isnt as affected as it seems,ย  due to it compressing when loaded with a battery and even more so when breaking, thus wound all the way down you dont bottom out as much, I find little improvments with shock oils when the ftx ones tend to leak it out.
    In my outlaw thread you can see the results when testing, limited roll overs (even no sway bar on mine (silver / red one tested on 4s and3s mod 1).

  12. 45 minutes ago, PumpkinPie said:

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    What do you mean by add a sway bar? Sorry, noob question.

    rn_image_picker_lib_temp_54f0bd76-7292-4
    Ftx sway bar from the carnage for the fronts, either currie or home made rear bar, don't waste money on the ebay junk. The bar is cheese.

    • Like 1
  13. Cleaned the trucks after a good run, pressure washed the used to leave them in the drying cupboard

    Now i get the shop vac, put it on blow mode and what a job it does drying out the fiddly bits. Highly recommended and very satisfying to do ๐Ÿ™‚

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    20230416_131550.jpg

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    The lad fitted his carbon towers, FTX carbon towers are a joke... WARNING

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    1st up dont supply the right screws and no standoffs for the rear.

    2nd the holes are not the right size for the screw hardware so need to be opened up to the right size with a drill.

    The fronts needed drilling at the upper links, The rears needed the same and the shock mounting screw holes are all to small.

    3rd shouldnt have to do all that S**t, why isnt it just right...

    -5/10 Worst parts ive ever installed, was supposed to be a fun easy job for the lad, ended up taking an hour ๐Ÿ˜ž

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  14. Well, im only giving advice based on what worked for me and the coutless hours spent resolving the outlaw issues, stiffer springs are the way to go, but you can also get a way without, as per the 2 outlaws shown.

    I wont spread false truths, just what works for me.

  15. 5 hours ago, Gari_Ferret said:

    So I took her out today after rebuilding on the aluminium chassis and on the factory 2s she was a handful off-road but on 3s 55c... Wheelies, at 45mph, anytime I even looked at full throttle, resulted in blowing out the foams of the front wheels but other than that, only had the ESC come loose(the sticky pad was dirty anyway) and lost a couple of screws despite all the tumbles.ย ๐Ÿ˜…ย Think I might need to find belted tyres or something, be nice if I could fit dboots somehow, would there be a way of doing so?

    Yeah can get hex adaptors for 1/8th wheels to 1/10 hex

  16. Hobao Buggy 1/8th front springs, from 2005 blue coating, think its the softer version, (purple were stiffer) its the length that helps as stops bottoming out.

    Sure there is same to be found or take the rear outlaw springs and cram them on the fronts ๐Ÿ™‚
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    IMG_20210629_224152.thumb.jpg.62ace416c3439b4649f320b268f08b31.jpg

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    Otherwise wind the collars all the way down with the stock ones and add a sway bar, should help a bunch.

  17. Stiffer springs is the way to go, I use 1/8 springs on the front, you also will find the sway bars help, along with harder foams in the front tires as its rolling due to the soft side walls rolling and biting. Move the battery forward onto of the top brace, check the outlaw thread for all these tips and more.

  18. 3 hours ago, Lone-wolf said:

    tidy build, hope you get some big numbers, are you using a steering gyro, i found this chassis does handle pretty well......also gathers dust well sat in the storage space

    No gyro, as it can make the car loose control at high speeds, trying to self correct oscillation in the steering.

    • Like 1
  19. Thanks chaps, forgot hpi screws were cheese, already rounded 2 getting the servo plate out.
    Esc fits snugly behind the small motor, if a longer can is needed then id have to forward mount the servo, still might do it to free up some chassis space.

    20230413_171659.jpg

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    Most annoying is the inability to run contact foams as the wheels hit these little bumps on the rear A arms. Could grind them off, think its for a grubnut but cant see any there and they give a spare set ๐Ÿ˜„

    • Like 3
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