Redback
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Posts posted by Redback
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bump before ebay gets it
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Castle Monster XXL ESC+ Hobbywing 4985 1650kv Motor Combo.
Selling this as no longer speed running my hyper 7.
Both used at Rossa for speed runs (about 5 passes)
Note the castle esc has got a crack in the plastic case but doesnt affect cooling or perfomance.
The motor has had the bottom fins ground down to allow it to fit into a hyper 7 on stock mount.
This doesnt affect performance.
5 speed run passes with these, ESC was NIB Purchased at ROSSA 2022 for £180
Motor was purchased 2021 never been in the wet, bearings all smooth, cable got nipped by lexan so heatshrinked to reseal cable.
Looking for £220 this inc fees and postage as a combo only, wont split, cost covers postage as the motor is big and heavy.
Any questions please ask.
Thanks for looking. -
this is a specific low cg build designed for hardcore crawling, the trx is more of a trail truck, built to withstand what kids would do to it, a pro low cg setup like this in the hands of kids will be destroyed pretty quick.
anyway looks like a decent bit of kit that competes with the likes of the custom lowcg element chassis, trx4 isnt the market for this cars competition, element and vanquish are imo.-
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I run a 7.4v servo so have my axe esc in the trx4 set to 7.4v still using stock rx gear so yes it can take it.
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Looks good! like the winch nice touch, dont like the servo on axle but looks pretty tucked away. Ive been liking these newer ones, always enjoyed my highrock.
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Thats a very nice body m8, there was a sweet ute body from hpi id like to try but it wouldnt be any good for speed running, just looking sick haha.
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Another horrible body what are they smoking. The sharp corners will crack on roll overs. Smh
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43 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said:
The older original style TRX Connector will work fine its just the newer ones have ID technology,
My concern is, surely a Tamiya Connector will just melt? They were terrible in the 90's, let alone with todays power?
Its a crawler it will be fine. The id connector wont function but the connectors should right? Got a pick locky of your adaptor and the esc connectors?
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44 minutes ago, locky said:
traxxas esc to nimh tamiya? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/412931
I eat my words, This actually might work, it might not sleave over the fancy female connector but the esc should have male pins that would fit into this connector.
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Chop the traxas connector off the esc then put on a tamiya connector. Never seen adaptors for those, i dont think traxas would permit it. So yeah cut n shut. You selling the lipo? Dont cut off its connector.
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13 hours ago, Mac Legge said:
What kv and gearing was this on please bud
This would be on 4300kv 3665 hobbywing xr8 4s setup.
Gearing was traxass spur gear 32dp 34 - 38t or something with 24t pinion from the looks of it, sadly i dont have the exact details as i run 34 pinion and 24t spur now, both of these are pinions and requires a custom drive shaft mod to use. -
The body hurts my eyes and thats nothing to do with the colour. Really needs some inner fenders to fill up the massive wheel arches.
The window and handle scales look really weird, as does the front, like they smooshed the front of a Jeep with the back end of a FJ Cruiser.
Drunk they must have been very drunk.-
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You dont see a cooked hobby wing often, what a mess, how are the batteries, if the esc popped it might have started a short on the batteries, check the cell voltages
Most of the time these ESC's will cut out due to high load (amps) (not heat).
The max 6 only uses 10 awg wire and should be 8awg for 8s imo, the current melted the connector from the pcb. But the fire probably came from the capacitors blowing out, tho the tops look okish.
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Love the buzz from a new PB. Grats m8
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4 hours ago, BUDFORCE said:
Made by Mauser in 1943 during a slight disagreement.
Outstanding bit of kit. Love the laminated wood on these.
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I would look at the current brushless boats, then look at the spares and see how they work the brushless systems. you can get a nice 3660 water cooled hobbywing motor these are usally low kv due to the need for high torque not rpm with boats and usally no gear down.
Other brushless boats use outrunner motors (the outside of the motor spins), these are good as they are usally 14 pole meaning exceptionally smooth start up and enough torque were the motor wont cog and stutter, this means you could go slightly higher kv as they are torque dense they lack the rpm and power of inrunner motors at top end.
A 540 motor would work out to be about a 3660 (36mm can, 60mm long), just watch the shaft size most are 5mm bore ensure your propshaft connector can take it, or you will be limited to 3mm bore brushless motors and that limits the can length quite a bit.
A nice crawler setup might work well in a boat, like if you can find a cheap hobbywing axe v1 or v2 unit they are designed for low rpm high torque situations and can not stall out like non sensored setups. -
23 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:
Im not gonna say no, but I honestly hand on heart think Id rather buy myself a rarer/older Tamiya for the shelf, than buy this. Im not out, but the UK Price at £759 has put me off.Give it time, your daughter will need a car, why not make it a nice one 😉
Worked on the speedrun cars, see other threads but heres a picture of my mate front flipping his now brushless ecx rampage and then the results.
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Oh noe the images links are dying, wonder why...
No better time for a photo, still crawling strong, the poor body has seen much better days but he wont let it go.
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7 hours ago, stretch said:
Ok I won't bother with shafts for now then. Is this the arm I need? https://greensmodels.co.uk/products/axial-scx10-ii-ar44-stainless-steel-wide-angle-steering-link-set-for-axle-mounted-servo if not do you have a link?
The Mad Mauler has arrived!
What tyres do people recommend for it for mix of trails/rocks?
Those look like they would be pretty decent already, if they are 2.2 or even 1.9 traxars canyons are very good. Use them on the outlaw crawler.
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Typoon updates.
Gets a the real speed run shell that was used on the HPI RS4 Sport 3 that was sold as i didnt enjoy running it nore was it suitable and safe to use at high speeds. 80mph with it was comendable it had a go.
This shell is 2mm thick and very stiff. The rim remains as it is like canards and helps pull the body down, some more might need to come off.
To fit this body and reuse the same mounting holes, the front lines up pretty good, will need to make a new top plate to adjust it forward a little more.
The back mounting will require a substantial plate hanging off the rear shock tower.
As the body is very low at the front, the front shock towers had to go, or i heat up and form the body around the towers, i opted to delete the tower and also delete the shocks replacing these with rod ends.
I cut the broken tower lower for the top of the steering wishbones to keep them offset correctly.
Without mounting them this way the body wouldn't fit and the ride height of the body would allow to much air under the car.
The ride height is adjusted via these, sits about 5mm from the surface at the front and 10mm at the back with its limited shocks at full squat.
Spot the diffrence, i was trying to keep the cars mostly stock, uh oh. 😄
Getting excited for ROSSA!-
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2 hours ago, Iobymac said:
Hi Can someone please tell me what pitch pinion I need for the FTX Outlaw? I'm putting in a 3660 bl motor. Have a hardened spur 62t gear. Motor shaft is 5mm. I can go 23t with new mount or stick with 17t steel pinion but what pitch? I think the original brass pinion is either .6 or .8 mod?
.6 yeah, RW racing used to do 5mm long boss .6mod pinions, but it looks like they dont make them any more 😞 Id stick with 17t as its already overgeared. -
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Not my models, but for a mate, fixing up some broken / old trucks.
Old nitro 4wd, kyosho maybe something else, bent chassis back to shape and a deep clean, the front ends ruined and needs some way to re attach to the chassis.
Next up was fixing the top plate that had snapped , used the bottom of the old battery box to bodge it.
Biggest issue was the screw holes for the diff housings are shattered with only one good screw holding down the front was a tricky thing to fix.
Solution a fabricate a plate that holds the diff down via the hinge pin bar, clips over and affixed to the chassis also strenthening the front end.
As the old battery / reciver box was deleted, made a top rear brace for esc / batteries.
Final thing was convert it to electric. Popped a spare motor mount to the chassis and max 8 esc flat 4s battery and 2400kv motor for a quick test.
Next up is this 1/10 kyosho
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5 hours ago, Lone-wolf said:
I am trying to see what the good points and bad points on trx4m is out of box, stock, seem to remember the prop shafts were prone to fail, and am i right these run bronze bushes from stock? are the stock electrics decent?
Top heavy as most trx, you will spend more on brass and upgrades than you spend on the truck to keep it rubber side down.
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On 25/02/2024 at 12:02, Lone-wolf said:
It does look good, if i go for it i would need to sell the Injora and Blitzer beetle but i also really like the look of the new element 12 ecto, i feel that has a lot of potential, cant do both
Thought you would be all over the new fms 18 lwb chevy pickup.
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FTX Vantage speed runner
in High Speed RC
Posted · Edited by Redback
Yes read up in the other thread, tldr you need to craft a 5mm bar into a drive shaft that will take the ring pinion, requires a dremel and lots of fine grinding work.
But is doable, another guy used 8mm bar as he used 8mm bore pinions and lathed his down.
Are you running 4s? i used hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT on 4s and got 100mph on stock drive train with trx4 plastic spurgear it was paired with a Hobbywing Xerun 3660Sd D5.00 4300Kv G2 motor or a castle mmx 6s esc 2400kv motor.