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Redback

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    What did you do to your model today?

    in General RC

    Posted · Edited by Redback

    The Hyper 7 hit one of the tires protecting the traps at ROSSA last weekend, big fail on my part, couldnt abort in time due to an unknown steering issue. Had just done its first 101mph pass 30 min before.

    Checked over the actual damage, looks really sad and bad, but in reality...
    Oone broken bell crank, shattered lower pin and front diff input housing tower mounts.
    Chassis is still straight... Motor mount is fine, all drive shafts straight, no screws pulled through, pretty speachless... They make these old hypers tough as nails.

    20230702_132421.thumb.jpg.549a751d56dad5f4d71aa3aa6803aa81.jpg20230705_201948.thumb.jpg.e799faaeb00fe27ba918409c821fc321.jpg20230705_204440.thumb.jpg.3430993c74780429056ad6783ed5dccf.jpg

     

     

    • Like 4

    Fastest Banzai

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    On 01/07/2023 at 07:46, Grogg said:

     

     

    Out of curiosity, what % of your Banzai is still the original FTX parts, or official upgrades, and what % is either custom parts, or parts intended and designed for different RC cars and even class of RC cars made by either other manufacturers, like Yeh Racing, Scorched Parts, Perfect Pass and so forth, or 3d printed by either yourself or by someone on your behalf?

    Mines 99% stock. the only change is the rear drive shaft is custom made, the rest is all the stock plastics, nothing fancy. (red and green shell)
    The lads (yellow and orange) is mostly ftx carbon parts and upgrades, and honestly they made the car worse, it was uncontrollable at full speed, when my stock banzia was planted no issues.
    I dont use parts from other rcs, the challenge is to the get the stock cars as fast as possible, this means plastic hexes, unlocked diffs, etc.
    Obvoiusly i have removed the garbage motors and escs and put in semi decent race ones.

    What did you do to your model today?

    in General RC

    Posted · Edited by Redback

    14 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

    so you need to give it a push to get started ?

    lol yeah, its only because its got a bangood esc (60amp) and motor (4300kv "540" more like  3652) in it...
    i recon it would be fine with a higher amp esc and sensored
    Can keep it in slow motion it wont stall out, i expect ill put a better setup in on the day 😅 its fine but i rather not smoke its nice to have for a basher or backup edf esc

    • Haha 1

    What did you do to your model today?

    in General RC

    Posted · Edited by Redback

    On 21/06/2023 at 11:56, Kpowell911 said:

    Took the TT02R out. Geared up 5 teeth on the pinion. 
     

    Hobbywing 1060 ESC, Tamiya RZ SuperStock brushed motor, 2S Lipo. 
     

    AjITDEW.jpeg

     

    I hit 30 mph. I then turned my steering dual rate down and it felt easier to control. However, I think id already drained the lipo, so I didnt beat 30mph. Im on rally blocks too which doesnt help. 
     

    wXSSpKm.png
     

    In 2023, 30mph isnt impressive with 50-60mph+ plastered all over the box of RTRs, but I think thats quite good for a brushed Tamiya. Its also amazing that gearing up can a 5 mph increase, especially in terms of percentages. 
     

    Now in terms of whats next? I have a few brushless systems I can try, including a brand new Hobbywing Max 10 G2 Sensored combo Ive not used yet, so I could try that, or is there a more powerful Tamiya Brushed motor I could try? Hmmm

    Great start, a record is a record, the slower the first record the faster your next pb will be 🙂
    Talking of speed runs.
    20230624_212433.jpg

    Geared the DR10 to the moon, using the hpi rs4 stock spur and highspeed pinion 😄 poor thing wont launch by itself its geared so high, saftey feature.
    It wont run away from you, just melt on the start line 😂

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

    Confession Corner

    in General RC

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Lone-wolf said:

    Im very lucky with my OH, if i want something i just get it, but due to lack of space for my RC`s i tend to need the one out, one in policy. 

      Have to say im rather fancying a traction hobby crawler, that new F-150 and if i were to i would have to sell all the others just to fund it

    Theres always room on the ceiling, i know a guy that had 8 planes stuck to his ceiling, kept them out the way and looked awesome.

    • Like 2

    Fastest HPI Sport 3

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    Yeah cutting the chassis is always a last resort as its not a reversable modification and the chassis on these contain the spur gear housing that means any cutting is a new chassis.
    Also i use the same gears for the other cars so a cut down one is good for them too.
    The hpi and wheels is a pain in the butt, the rears have a nub when cut off makes fitment better but still have to move the shocks way in etc.
    The fronts are worse with the long steering arms and top arm pivot not giving clearance.

    Found that contact drag foams fit front and back, backs wont clear the fronts and are quite a bit wider.
    Could run 2 sets of front drag foams, these are the only ones that fit as 26 - 30mm x 60mm foams will not fit the fronts.
    These also vastly improve the handeling and stop it being super twitchy on steering input. Even with dual rate all the way down with 26mm fronts it was all over the place.
    20230615_200817.jpg

     

    Now the body fitment is another thing, either i cut out lots of body or trim the wheel.

    Will probably get some fronts for the back and keep the back ones as backups.

     

    On 14/06/2023 at 00:52, Grogg said:

    It basically looks like you're doing the same mods as that Stew Mac guy on YouTube and the Tamiya Club forums does to Tamiya TT-02 chassis to get them to go over 100mph, right down to the pinion and spur gear cover modification.  Basically get your pinion and spur tooth count to as close to 1 to 1 as possible if not have a higher tooth pinion gear compared to your spur gear.

     

    And I see now having seen your most recent pics why you would ground down a pinion gear rather than modify the chassis to accept a pinion gear as a spur gear.

    Did you book into rossa? Yes not seen stews gearing video but i also find running negative gearing eg 32t pinion 27t spur good as you can not get small spur gears like you can get pinions.
    Also not sure with the tamiya but for the ftx you need to make a custom drive shaft to accept pinions, for the hpi is a bit easier aslong as you have the right bearings to make up for the lost space.

    • Like 1

    Fastest Banzai

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Shergar said:

    Does the weight of the board help, or are the boards not actually that heavy?

     

    Good luck for ROSSA 👍

    Thanks mate, its less about weight more about stopping the air getting up under the bumper foam and making the body parachute, they are pretty light maybe not stiff enough

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Fastest HPI Sport 3

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    On 11/06/2023 at 03:37, Grogg said:

    I was under the impression that you where using two pinion gears, instead of the traditional pinion and spur gear setup.

    Not to start with, was going to try the high speed gearing, skipping that, have to grind down a pinion to fit or chop the chassis somewhat, going to try grinding a pinion.

    Fastest HPI Sport 3

    in High Speed RC

    Posted · Edited by Redback

    Not happy, spur gear melted doing a range check, was going 5mph at most. Really cheesed off, been nothing but a problem child, one run broke chub, 2nd run melted gear. 😞

    20230610_162140.jpg

     

    Feeling a bit of regret getting this, had high hopes but so far nothing but dissapointment.

     

    Painted the body tho turned out ok for spare empty cans.

    20230610_153025.jpg

    Fastest HPI Sport 3

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    Parts arrived, still cant run 30mm foams on front as turnbuckles are to big, cut off the nub stopping the backs being fitted, have to run 26mm on front then as not enough axle stub for hub extender.
    Diffuser added and cut back to allow the foams to expand, recentered servo, need to shorten and update motorwire to 6mm bullets, body cut and paint to do.

     

    rn_image_picker_lib_temp_5bd7f5f5-dc36-4

    • Like 1

    Fastest HPI Sport 3

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    Few parts inc, wider wheels, rear diffuser, will finish build this weekend 2 weeks till rossa first pass, no road shakedowns cant risk it.
    Have to also put on the other 0 caster c hub as running a '6 and the spares arnt spares and are 0 caster pulls either side even double trimmed.
    Want some spares for the event but mostly out of stock, fingers xd no crash maybe 150mph is a dream, now i see the chassis it seems long way off.

    • Like 1

    Fastest Banzai

    in High Speed RC

    Posted

    Getting Rossa ready. The old "typhoon" will be sent again after considering passing it on, we got a new friend, "hurricane" another banzai.
    Reused the body from the hyper10 that wont be sent, retrofitted and chopped back.

     

    20230605_043855.jpg

     

    Typhoon is also ready to rock, back to the old gearing 4s setup, no 3d printed parts, just need to fabricate a front splitter with some chopping board.

    image.png

    • Like 2

    FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread

    in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums

    Posted

    On 30/05/2023 at 14:55, Andy UK said:

    Hi.

     

    I purchased an FTX Bugsta (Brushed) for my 9 year old Son (and me 😆) . Its our first 'real RC' car, as opposed to the cheapo toys previously.  

     

    I have been having issues with the motor. It started off fine, but after a few days out it stopped working. No beeps on turn on, wheels turn left and right, but no motor motion. I called the shop and they said it should last longer and sent me a free replacement.

     

    That one worked fine, for a while and did the same thing. Not sure of the total run time. I bought another. the 3rd one did 20 mins and did the same thing. 

     

    What could be causing them to die so fast ? 

     

    The motor is the FTX 550 Max Speed 15 Turn Motor.  The Battery I have on it, sold to me by the shop at the car purchase time is the Overlander Tornado 5000. 

     

    Other than that, its pretty stock. Its had about 5 new bumpers and a new aluminium chassis, nothing else.

     

    The motor is dead, look through the hole does it look or smelt burt out. Usally motors go before esc's as you already have been through 3 motors you might want to consider whats the cause, driving to hard and fast, it over heating, to much power input melting it?
    FTX brushed motors are not good, brushed motors in general dont last long under heavy loads that these cars deal with and the result is usally "dad the cars smoking again" because the motors melt first.
    The other issue could be something is causing binding in the drive train thus putting extra strain on the motor brushes these usally then melt out of the plasic they are held by.

    The battery is a 2s or 3s lipo? probably stick with 2s 7.4v on brushed motors and big wheels.

    I would honestly go brushless and save yourself the trouble of getting a new motor every run, they are worth the bang for buck, stick a hobbywing max10 and 3652 3200kv motor in and she will rip like no tomorrow.

     

    12 hours ago, SXFoxstar said:

    Sounds like your ESC isn’t working. I had a burnout of mine recently which also ruined the motor. As it’s within warranty take it back to shop and ask for a full replacement car as it shouldn’t happen that early. Once I replaced my ESC it has been working great

    Sounds like you had some bad luck with your motor buring out your esc, usally doesnt happen the other way round.
    E.g A esc would have trouble burning out a motor if the esc was dead. The logic doesnt work.

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