Redback

Theres a good truck if you wanna ditch the trash trasmission they come with imo.

I just got that driveshaft today and same thing after 3 min, the pin falls out as its held in with "magic" aka nothing, once you loose the small cotter pin, you loose the big one and the joint. I was able to canablize one of the old plastic ones then made a new pin from some jumbo body clips, cut and bent over the ends, not fancy but does the job. Really dissapointing for the cost of the thing, looks like a cheap ebay one posted before is more solid lol. On that point can you please link the alloy servo saver, i picked up a hbx adjustable one and will report on how it fits as i couldnt find an alloy one at the usal suspects.

Got another outlaw so thought id try a new esc and motor combo, after seeing people run 120amp i went for that and a beafy longer motor a 560 can with 3mm shaft. Stock gearbox and gearing. Hobbywing max 10 stc 120amp, with a Hobbywing 3656 4700kv on 2s lipo. Doesnt clog but can hear it trying too, maybe to much power, very hot motor :( Why would the motor be stressed on 2s i planned on putting 4s into it later. Nothing is binding on the rig, everything is buttery smooth. I put the max10 60amp with 3652 3300kv motor back in on 2s lipo, and it is pretty much perfect. Will have to see how it runs on 5.8inch tires, later on. The 3656 motor and esc is now sitting in the modified crawler outlaw and gives lots more speed and power with no motoroverheat. So win for the kid i guess :D

Totally fair and reasonable, I agree i'm probably thinking to much as the truck to me still worth something to me so i'm overvaluing it when really they are toys not collectors items. With a realistic figure i can now decide what to do, thank you!

Looking good, 550 can is for sure the way to go, is this on 3s or 2s?

Intresting thank you for the info, i was to sell it i think i would want atleast +300£ as a roller (with nitro / controller gear etc) is that unreasonable?, 50£ is insulting as these are rare nowdays. Ive seen brushless conversions on ebay for 800/1000£.

Yes lots of pinions to choose, but only 2 choices when it comes to motor mount without drilling out bits to fit a diffrent sized pinion, so be carful if doing so that your motor is screwed in hard to avoid it slipping.

What amps / outputs are the ESCs and what motors are they paired with, thank you.

I had a similar experience with the hobbywing setup, it was night and day better than stock but low speed startup has been a constistent issue specially with big wheels. Love to see a video of these in a bind to see how they compare.

Appreciate the replies, I already bought a Hobbywing Max 8 and converted my Hyper to brushless and for me its much more fun as i don't have to worry about the nitro, the noise. The setup has plenty of power it peels the tires on 6s and cant go full throttle without something flying off, its a rocket! I bought the max 8 motor with the intention of using it also in the LST , however on further thoughts maybe its too much instant power for the weight and size of the truck? The drive train looks very beefy but i worry about the high / low transmission taking a beating. I'm leaning towards selling it as a roller, that way people can do with it what they like, either put the nitro parts back in or use the mount I've fabricated for the brushless motor, (mount bolts onto the the chassis via a plate) so i didn't need to drill the chassis.

Thank you, that's given me some food for thought. I'm worried about breaking it on brushless, and it seems hard to find parts for this nowdays / Not sure about part compatibility, availability of parts from other losi lst models. I don't have the space to run it nitro and its been shelved for 4 years, I kind of feel it needs a new home where some one will enjoy the truck and give it the attention it deserves.

No they are not flat out, on flat ground there's no issue, the brushed ones seem to cook on the hills, like what happened to yours when you put the brushed motor in. The Outlaw uses carnage / vantage diffs and I'm not sure what other are compatible maybe some others have insight, eg axial wraith diff spurs might fit the diff case, or the diff case might fit the diff, but i don't see the diff gearing being the issue. Yes we might have made the wrong car choice as these are rock racers not really designed to be in a bind. However if you want to work on it, I think there's a good rig here. If you go for the mauler gearbox please let me know how the build goes, I'm not aware of different ratios, the downside of the g1 gearbox for me right now is no choice of spur gear size, however there is enough room for id say up to a 27t maybe larger pinion. I was also concerned about the mauler drive train gear width, The outlaw is a wide truck and not that light using larger wheels like i do to help with roll overs and handling, would put some strain on the gearbox, so the wider G1 gearmesh to me seems less likely to fail.

Thank you for the kind words Eclipsed. I'm not sure about more motors, there might be just enough room for a 550 brushless motor that would have more torque and probably clogg less with a 60+amp ecu. I wasn't able to find a motor that wouldn't melt and haven't seen any other solutions. 3s will give you an extra kick you can also try adjusting the ecu punch and timing sometimes this can help smooth out the launch. The Outlaws from what I've seen and hear, are known for eating motors and because we have no choice in gearing due to the way they made the motor mount, Its been a hard ride to find a solution. Also with a stronger motor your spur gear will get thrown at low speeds so finding a middle ground is tricky. This is the gearbox i used. https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/230038/ I also was looking at the FTX mauler / outback fury transmissions but couldn't get hold of one and was concerned the motor position wouldn't work due to the motor being slung low.

There isnt much choice (17t or 23t) are the only mounts offered for the gearbox without modification. When it comes to the outlaw and gearing, its just quite bad from what im seeing, I've also melted 3 motors on the outlaw. Brushless seems to be the way to go for longer life atleast, but be careful as other issues then can arise. Let me know if you also find a solution short of a transmission swap. Goodluck have fun

The battery should be fine, but with only 2.31v from a cell something is wrong there, what happens with another battery? As for the lights, it sounds like the reciver isnt bound to the transmitter have you tried rebinding it? If the motor and esc is new you may also need to resetup the ecu to the controller. I got a new etronix ecu after mine went for a swim and turned out it was the reciver that was glitching not the ecu. Once left to dry the stock ecu came back to life.

Yay or sorry to hear but happy to know another Outlaw owner with the same issues i had. The stock brushless outlaw with the etronix 60a ecu & 2700kv motor also does the same thing. Hobbywing max 10 3300kv works nicer but not good enough for crawling as soon as it hits long grass you have to feather the throttle to get the motor to keep turning over smoothly from standstill. The only solution i found was a complete transmission swap, i made a post about it and am happy to share more details as on further looking its as clear as mud If you do find a solution that doesn't require a transmission swap id love to hear it, Maybe a castle mamba x and crawler motor, but my experience with a 1800kv axe system was it would cook the motor, the stock gearing on the the outlaw is pretty bad in my mind.

Nice motor can understand why its hard to come by. https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/264662/ Is listed as 1900 in the part number but the description says 1600kv maybe its a missprint and you get lucky?

Hello, I have an original 2006 LST that im thinking of converting to brushless. http://www.rc-trucks.org/team-losi-lst.htm Before i start drilling this amazing truck i wanted to ask, is it worth it or would it be worth more sold as a roller / nitro? I have the manual, body, electronics / fm 3 chan controller, a non running mach 28 nitro and working hyper 21 engine, the spur is pretty chunky but still works. One owner its come all the way from Australia with me, Its been run well and never been bashed hard, all original parts nothing broken (besides engine roto start plate) What would one of these sell for, or any details on converting these to brushless? I've seen this but it doesnt show it running and rather than using a plate of metal i have a hpi 1/8th brushless motor mount ready to be tapped into the chassis. https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19289 Advice please! Thank you.

What are you looking for?, seems decent stock here for example? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/esc-motor-combos/rc-car-categories/9920/992020&ManufacturerID=1245&InStockOnly=1&MSAttributeID[110]=1247

I've never seen these and that wouldnt resolve the issue with the poor gearing for the size of the truck, I mounted the battery on the plastic upper brace and yes it helps greatly. However as noted I was unable to keep the battery forward due to the height of the new gearbox and the motor now being in a higher position.

Hello, First time poster here just wanting to share, I had been looking for ages on how to possibly swap out the transmission / gearbox on the Outlaw to reduce clogging and its desire to eat motors or spur gears amongst other issues. For context the owner of the truck is 6 so the other goal is to make it a bit more usable and controllable for slower hill bashing and crawling, whilst still using the brushless motor but without clogging issues or having to go to a sensored system. Main issues from my time owning this truck. - The stock brushless outlaw electronics are splashproof not water proof as advertised, the ECU doesn't have the same peak output as the same proper water hardened one Etronix offer that's much better and has higher peak output. - The gearbox flexes underload throwing spur gears from the pin, eating spur gears, the brass alloy FTX pinions are terrible also, always use a hardened steel pinion even on plastic spur gears to prevent wear. - Loves to roll over and snap baseplates / arm links, the plastic chassis has a major flaw in the strength of the corners that hold the lower rear trailing arms, these can snap from minor roll overs.- - Doesn't accept other 2.2 wheels with ease due to rubbing on the front turnbuckles. - The gearing choice isn't great, 17t pinion with 550 17t or 21t brushed motors and 40amp ecu the motor will last for about an 2 hours before melting, The gearing is that bad the stock 4 pole 2700kv brushless motor clogs and staggers when moving from standstill. Before going full bonkers with a new transmission, we tried a HW 540 1800kv Axe system, this worked as expected but got hot very fast (within minutes), I didn't want to risk cooking the motor so promptly removed it. I think i found a solution to some of these issues, if you don't mind doing some chopping and drilling, here are the results. - Remove high up sprung weight. Dump the spare wheel. - Bluetak/Gum the diffs to make them semi locked. - 2.2 fast trax wheels , on hobao hyper 10 wheel nuts to give the clearance for the steering hubs to prevent rubbing. - Ftx Carnage front swaybar drops straight in. - Move battery tray and mount onto the middle brace (if you dont swap out the stock gearbox) - HW Ezrun Combo works great has much better anti clog and torque on stock gearbox. - Steering servo died after 3 years, reasonable considering it had a swim twice, 15kg server is good but ideally also needs a stiffer servo saver spring to make use of the extra oomph. - Gearbox / Transmission swap was done with a Gmade G1 Crawler transmission, This works well because the outputs are the same size and in a similar position to the stock gearbox. - 12t pinion that comes with the G1 gearbox is fine but lacks top end speed so is now fitted with a 18t hardened pinion. - The front drive prop shaft had to be replaced as it was to long with the drive cups, A cut down FTX mauler shaft fit perfect. - The rear drive output has a smaller grub hole so to save drilling the output and possibly compromising its strength, 2 grubnuts fit each side to lock it in place and has not come loose. - You will need a steel rear prop shaft to prevent torque twisting and snapping it. - Mounting the gearbox can only be done to the alloy chassis and requires 4x m3 holes, this was easy to do as the gearbox can sit flush up with the rear of the chassis making alignment less of a concern. - You need to cut a small corner from the top base plate brace, to allow it to be fitted. - Finally with the new gearbox being further back 550+ can motors can fit with ease, with over 75mm of motor length now supported. - Doesn't need a sensored motor due to the gear reduction, still can hit 15 - 20 mph on 2s / 3s. - Runtime was 5 hours exactly on 2s 5000mha lipo. Has anyone else done something similar to their outlaw, id love to see what others have done to fix similar issues, share the knowledge and fun.