Paul Busby

You have already tweaked the Kraton quite a bit so I would go the approach of getting that going rather than starting on a new platform.

They're a bit heavy for 4s tbh, but if you put a bigger pinion on they can do it just fine... just make sure you have batteries with a decent C rating and keep an eye on the ESC temp.

Well I have a spare max 6 (unsed, but I would like to keep it) and a "castle" 1518 that you're welcome to try out and then send back to me... or I guess you could keep the Max and buy me a replacement... up to you, just give me a shout if you wanna try. Could possibly part with the motor if you really like it, but it was earmarked for the ET48 2.0.

Indeed, but the Traxxas connector is specifically very unique to their trucks. This was a consideration to me when I bought my first RC, and it's a consideration whenever I'm looking at them now. If I was buying a new Arrma now, they come with IC5 which is a pretty decent and relatively universal one, also used by Axial, Losi... and other "horizon" brand at least, not to mention the support from battery manufacturers. I'm sure there is a good range who offer batteries pre-supplied with IC5. If I was splashing out for a really nice RTR now, I would contemplate switching everything over from XT90 (which is what was on my Kraton 6s when I bought it, and so it has become my in-house standard) to IC5 to accommodate that warranty. In reality I would likely always look for a roller/slider and put in my own electronics so we don't need to have this discussion at all. Traxxas connectors are for traxxas cars and you need traxxas batteries... with that comes compatibility and to a certain degree safety, but against it is cost and flexibility. I mean, It doesnt make sense to put a traxxas connector onto a non-traxxas car... if you ask me... so I wouldn't make that my "standard".

There also isnt a massively deep pool of upgrades available for the Granite, certainly not that I would recommend actually buying. Other than sticking some metal in the driveline, which would allow you to run 4S and a couple of bash-protection bits, perhaps upgrading to some stouter shocks... almost everything else will make it worse. (I would possibly even say 4S would make it worse, but Spektrum ESC's aren't amazing). A lot of the upgrades are expensive, and it's just not a truck that warrents lots of expensive parts. It's very plastic, and with that design comes durability through flexibility, which is a similar ethos to the Maxx. If you want a platform to build a big shiny monster of a bash vehicle on with loads of M2C 7075 T6 alloy, then the Arrma 6s is what you're looking for, Tekno MT410 if you want the better and more expensive version of that same process. I genuinely get pretty much the same thrill from 3S granite doing jumps as I do my 6S Kraton and MT410 though. They're different cars to tame, and I will have a hard time giving up any of them, but the actual level of enjoyment is very similar for bashing around. I don't mention Traxxas because I don't own any. I don't want to buy a truck and immediately void the warranty by swapping the connector so I just don't own one. I do like the look of the Maxx, and maybe I'll pick up a slider/roller in the future if the price was right, but it's unlikely I would buy one new. Nothing wrong with Traxxas cars, as such, I mean quite often the parts are reasonably priced and the durability is, to avoid arguments, lets call it "comparable" to the other major brands, other than Tekno.

I got this a couple of years ago now, so I think they're possibly getting a little sparse. It's pretty decent motor, or it was last time I used it anyway 🙂 So you still have the Max6 in there? This is a pretty decent option for the price point you're looking at: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001458735105.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.18.39901549rdg3lM I had the 1720kv option and was not a fan, but so many other people rave about them I think I must have just got a duff one... that's often the gamble with common chinesium.

No, don't need it, the 2200kv Hobbywing motors are very good, but I personally was far more comfortable with a lower KV. The centre diff has a hefty spur on it, so you can get away with higher KV for sure, but If I was just buying a motor, and not a combo, then I would look towards 1800-2000kv. As always in these things, YMMV. I have a fake castle 1800KV you can borrow to try out if you like?

I have always had 8th scale motors in mine (V3 with basically all the mods), and pretty sure mine is heavier than a stock EXB. Still goes like a rocket when geared appropriately. The stock motor KV is about right (2000kv) for me. Any higher and you end up with a stupid tiny pinion. Some people like to go down to about 1700KV with a longer can (e.g. 4092) but I found that to get the speed right it had to be geared a little tall, and I couldn't get the performance/heat balance right. 1800KV is a nice spot to be in but I'm at 1950KV with gearing options between 14-17T now and very happy.

Na the MT410 on 4s is plenty tank enough without mods. People just do the mods anyway and 6s kinda needs a few to contain the power. I really haven’t done that much to mine and it’s taken a right beating. Toughest arms is the business, best shocks, good 7075 chassis, good diffs... you don’t need to do an m2c wallet buster edition.

If you’re going balls to the walls with zero chance of disappointment, then the MT410 kit is your best option... but be prepared to spend the best part of a grand when all said and done, as it doesn’t come with electronics, wheels, a shell... all adds up. Id be tempted to look at a Typhon 3s or a Big Rock before taking that leap. That’s a step up from FTX without committing too much money, and the parts are all pretty affordable.

I will note that so far, if a Chinese seller on Ali express charged VAT, I haven’t been charged on entry to the UK so far. ive had some very, very odd VAT receipts with some very very odd maths. i have a EORI number and my company is now basically only doing the hobby stuff, so if there are some items which are unobtanium, we can make an order big enough that it’s worthwhile, and you don’t mind me charging n admin fee to cover the my admin costs.... then I can skirt the EU tax situation possibly. Its all very complicated though.

There is an RC Track down in Sedgefield, which is a bit of a treck, but not totally out the way. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2393422920754702 I'm down in Northallerton, N. Yorks, so not a million miles away, and I'm certainly not shy of shoving my bashers in the boot and cruising places.... so I'm going to follow the conversation. If the folk that let me have my workshop on their land let me, I'm also going to have a bashing track set up from time to time... but frankly time and me are not friends. I wish I could clone myself 😄

I am absolutely 100% un-ashemedly copying you 😂 I have the IFS kit here also waiting to be built, but I do wish I had read this before I ordered so I also could have ordered the steel ball set. Things I am doing different for sure, is bumpers and side skits... making my own

That's a good looking body!

Part of me has been considering cancelling my pre-order. Not after watching that video though.

Forget about the body for a minute... a body is like what, £20? Watch this: 🤤

I just lifted my Strada down to think of some simple ideas to help... First thing that springs to mind is the servo. Do you think you could vertically mount it, to then move the esc forward so you can fit a bigger motor?

Indeed. I wouldn't be surprised to see a few companies reluctantly follow in Tekno's footsteps. I don't actually think it's the split body which makes it ugly, it's the edges, lack of curves, the windows, and the colours.

STUFF! Some extra MIPs so I can keep some tools at my workshop/take them out for bashes rather than shipping back and forth. Some racing green... as it's my favourite colour for cars Some black so I can do the Tamiya that's been sat on the shelf for almost a year Cheap multi tool, not expecting much from this but again, it's just a "cover the bases" tool for when out and about without carring an entire tool kit. I'll have a decent 2.0 and 2.5 driver with me anyway. Fancy little AKA 2 in 1 nut driver... again, out and about. Rare that I need a different size to this. Spares for the Granite IFS conversion for the Enduro. Bumper brackets for the enduro (im making my own bumpers)

Yeah I'm actually a little confused at how you managed to fit some of those spur gears. I spent more time than I care to mention tying to figure out how to get a decent spur in there and didn't manage. I think I ended up with the stock 44 or 42T, whichever it is. This thing definitely needs the steering servo saver area sorted out. Gets sloppy real fast.

As the owner of a strada buggy, i'm a little amazed by what I'm reading on this thread. 90MPH on this platform is utterly bonkers 😄 If there is any bespoke parts that could be made to help give me a shout, at least in the most part its something I can test fit on my car before I ship it out. Nylon /CF Nylon/ Polycarbonate/CF Polycarbonate are all decent option for parts.

The new Tekno E-Truggy is on the way, and it looks ep... well it looks hideous. Many a joke have been made about the body style looking like a a tugboat, or a dog with it's head stuck in the railings, and I think we can all agree, Tekno did themselves no favours with the paint scheme and window mask. The side view isnt too bad though: But it does have a headlight section, which means questions about this truck body's validity for the 1/8 truggy class are, apparently, moot: Tekno aren't exactly well known for their attractive shells anyway. What they are known for is their racing pedigree and focus on adjustability and toughness throughout every element of the design, and the ET48 2.0 does not disappoint here. Many elements of the successful EB48 2.0 have been carried over, as well as some changes over the model it replaces in Tekno's line up: Although the overall layout, super adjustable suspension and steering geometry, and super thick arms will look very familiar to Tekno enthusiasts, you can see the slightly wider chassis plate, and very thick CNC shock towers. The keen eyed among us will also notice that the towers have space for standard body posts, so if you don't like the experimental body design, you can go back to a traditional looking truggy shell Electronics compatibility is currently still a little unclear, it's likely going to support the same parts as it's buggy brother, but it certainly does look a little tight, similar to it's predecessor: The RC Network got an early sample of the product, and will be uploading some build content prior to the general public getting their hands on the first batch. Have a look at his channel to see the first in the series: View full news article

I'm looking at them thinking, "does this make sense to chuck in a bash bag", and I'm not sure they do. I'd like pliers and spanners in there, and I guess with the round grabby area these do both, but... think I would prefer actual spanners. The shock shaft tool provides minimal function if you're away from the workbench. If I need to change a shock, it's unlikely I'll be doing that out and about, and my Tekno shock tool is WAYYYY more useful than these... Handy shop tool for a newcomer I guess, but if you already have a shock tool and some pliers, I'm not sure these have great utility.