Paul Busby

@Darren FrostyI have a Qidi X Max which has an enclosure. With the more engineering grade filaments, you have to preheat the enclosure to get the temps up to a consistent level. I then have to swap out for the high temp extruder which has a hardened steel nozzle and a PEEK tube, as PTFE tube shouldn't be used over 250c and we're going to be running at 260-300c, depending on the polycarbonate brand. Pure polycarbonate should need to be at the higher end of that scale, but pure polycarbonate is also much much much more difficult to print without the edges warping and peeling up. You also have to have the bed temp... basically as high as it will go, so around 100-120c on mine, from memory. You also need to be as level and flat as you can possibly be.

Polycarbonate is SUPER rigid when you making a thick object though. It's technically much tougher than nylon in almost every metric, but nylon has a bit more flex and will bend, rather than shatter. I've always preferred the results.

It's still tough to print, but there is a couple of brands that make stuff that has much less requirement for enclosure and constant temperature conditions.

I have learned/developed a couple of tricks from being on a few facebook groups as to how to improve prints. For example, glass bed with a thin wash of PVA glue helps with almost all filaments and putting a brim on the print, then deburring afterwards.

Feel free to ping me a message if you want to chat about it... im not an expert exactly, but I am a total research nerd and happy to help.

that's a beast of a printer. Back when fidget spinners were a thing I ran 2 wanhao i3's and a prusa knocking out the damn things as fast as they could print. Made a few quid doing it too, but it was **** easy compared to what you're doing.

See that's sensible though mate... I'm not doing (many) things sensibly 😄