[Some more 'Noob' Questions - this time on Servos]

18 hours ago, BigGinge said:

 

Edit:

 

also run one of these in the TRX4, probably complete overkill for a touring car but still surprisingly quick. 
 

 

 JX HV7032MG 32kg 0.07s
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtUEQl0

Sorry to hijack your thread Mr Beeblebrox.

@BigGinge how have you found the JX servo in your TRX4? Have you used it much? 
I need to replace an Amazon special that claims to be 35kg but definitely isn’t. 

[Some more 'Noob' Questions - this time on Servos]

9 minutes ago, ZaphodB said:

Thanks Storm,  I didn't know you could alter the BEC voltage!

 

Not sure my Carson allows you to do that (I suspect not), nor the Hobbywing 1080 I'm considering.

 

My son is running an  ancient Novak GTX which has a 6.0V  / 3.0A BEC output and doesn't appear toe be adjustable.

(GTX manual is here)

 

We also have a couple of Novak GT7 ESCs (manual here)

 

Zaph

 

 

The HW 1080 does have variable voltage options 👍

[Orlandoo Hunter OH32XO2 Trophy Truck Build]

I’m thinking about getting one of these in a couple of months. Will be interested to see how it goes together. 👍

 

[Post up a random picture and keep it clean please]

On 07/02/2023 at 17:29, James.S said:

A rare optic sight, the "Brocken spectre," which occurs when a person stands at a higher altitude in the mountains and sees his shadow cast on a cloud at a lower altitude.

 

 

This happened to me recently, but by the time I'd got my camera out and switched on, sadly the moment had passed.

[Lighting circuit conundrum]

Thanks @Stormbringer@Lone-wolf@BigGingefor your input. 
Space is at a premium in this one so I don’t think the light pipe would fit, although I’ll file that idea away for future use, Thanks.

I looked at the light cluster and worked out that if I very carefully removed the divider and extended the cavity by .5mm top and bottom, then I could JUST fit a 3rd LED in there…just, but it would be very tight and ridiculously fiddly.

I also realised that 0603 smd LEDs are exactly half the size of the 1206’s so I could fit two lights into one space….but how bloody fiddly would THAT be?

 

So after much pondering I’ve decided to forego the rear indicators and stop trying to be clever. Toying with forgetting the front indicators too, and just putting auxiliary lights in there instead?
 

After all, if this thing goes to plan, it’ll have an interior lit cab, backlit dash, light bar, and under body lights…. as well as the regular headlights, rear lights, brake lights, reversing lights and a slightly baffling strobe setting where they all flash in turn.🤷‍♂️
 

That’s probably enough lights for something small enough to park on my phone😂

[ROCHobby 1:10 Mashigan RC Rock Crawler]

The description on the Modelsport website is hilarious.... "you are the cowboy" 🤣

[RC Advice wanted]

13 hours ago, Stormbringer said:

You just want to see tank v seagull lol mind you so do i 

I  can’t wait! 😜 

[RC Advice wanted]

Brilliant!  Good luck. Can’t wait to see the footage 😁😁

[Lighting circuit conundrum]

I have a wiring conundrum I’m hoping you can help me with. Apologies if my description of the problem is a bit clunky, I don’t really know much about electronics or the correct terms to use.

 

I’m wiring up the lights for a Jeep Wrangler and would like them to be as close to the 1:1 as I can get them.

 

From what I can tell, the 1:1 version rear lights are clear at the bottom and red at the top. The clear lenses are reversing lights, and the red is rear light/brake light/indicator all rolled into one.

 

I have a lighting control circuit board that has connections for rear lights/brake lights, rear indicators and reversing lights.
Thats three separate circuits but in each rear light cluster there are only spaces for 2 LEDs each side.

 

I shall use white LEDs in the bottom slots as the reversing lights leaving space for one LED each side.

 

If I put a red LED in the remaining spaces and connect it to the rear light circuit, that will give me rear lights and brake lights, but no indicators.

 

BUT, (and this is where I need your knowledge of electronics!) if I were to connect the red LED to both the rear light AND indicator circuits would that work? Or would having one LED in two different circuits stop any of it working properly?

 

Hope my explanation makes sense?
 

 

 

 

 

 

[RC Advice wanted]

Ignore the sensible advice,

 

https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/heng-long-1-16th-german-tiger-i-radio-control-rc-tank-dual-sound-version/?gclid=CjwKCAiAioifBhAXEiwApzCztmu-9XTE2ySM_MQojFAHZWiR4sxSDZtCz1O2W3ytzvwxK3YGEy8kbxoCfF4QAvD_BwE
 

FPV would be good but potentially expensive, maybe use cctv?

 

Then post a vid on here of gull vs tank… please 🙏🤣

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

1 hour ago, Stormbringer said:

down will perhaps afford it some protection if it rolls 

Exactly.👍

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

Light bar…. Up or Down?

 

 

 

 

I’m thinking down.

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

When you zoom in it’s pretty shoddy work if I’m honest, but I’m really enjoying this one 😁

 

 

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

For todays therapy session ladies and gentlemen, we have a backlit dashboard (cough, don’t look TOO closely).

[What did the postie bring you today?]

@Lone-wolf
https://www.crazyleds.co.uk/ultra-violet-0805-smd-led/
 

The guy said this was a colour he’s planning to discontinue but he has a few others to choose from. He seems quite helpful, willing to offer advice. Cheap as chips too! 😀

[What did the postie bring you today?]

On 02/02/2023 at 12:47, Stormbringer said:

OMG they are tiny 

How many are you going to put on the car ?

3, maybe 5 depending on how bright they are. 1 in the cab, and 2 underneath the car, (but maybe four if needed). 
That leaves me 5 spares for when I mess them up 🤣

[What did the postie bring you today?]

6 minutes ago, totlxtc said:

 

I NEED to see this. Those are some teeny LEDs

I have a build thread going in "Micro and Mini" section. 

[What did the postie bring you today?]

A strip of tiny 0805 SMD LEDs. Never tried to solder anything this small before, but if successful,  these are going to provide purple under body lighting AND, unless I suddenly become sane again, will light up the dashboard in the cab of my 1/35 scale Jeep crawler.

 

(For those of you unfamiliar with these, the black stuff is just packaging, each of those white dots is a separate LED)

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

Cut out a window for the driver to lean out of and made a very rudimentary interior, complete with map reading passenger. Will cut out passenger side window too, so you’ll be able to see straight through the cab 😁

 

[If you had a budget of £250-300 to buy a crawler what would you get?]

9 hours ago, Zyphruk said:

reason i was put off the coyote was that it isnt 313mm wheelbase

I believe Carisma’s Ford F-150 and Subaru Brat versions were 313mm but not sure on availability of either. Think Carisma may have discontinued all Ford based products but not 100% sure tbh.

[Easy Lipo question (for brainy people who know about Lipos)!]

46 minutes ago, Ross9999992 said:

Just be aware that you’d still want the ability  to balance the cells as you are putting them in series 👍🏻

Thanks. I have a balance plug and a circuit diagram. Despite being fairly confident I know what I’m doing, I’ll be very pleased if my charger recognises it as a 2S battery when I plug it in.

I’m putting it off until the rest of the electronics are closer to completion as I want to keep all the wiring as short as possible to save space. 

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

Now I’m going with the saddlebag battery, the battery tray is empty. As you can see there’s not a great deal of space, but I’m hoping to fit most of the electronics in there.

 

The RX/ESC takes up most of the space so I decided to de-case it and make a bit of room….

[If you had a budget of £250-300 to buy a crawler what would you get?]

I have the element with ifs and a coyote. If I’m honest, the element can get over stuff the Coyote can’t. Mostly due to the front overdrive I think?? It’s definitely a really capable truck.
BUT

The element has been less than reliable, breaking down on the trail several times in the 12 months I’ve had it, and parts aren’t particularly cheap. Whereas the coyote has been used ( and abused) regularly for nearly 3 years and has been super reliable. I think parts are cheaper too, but I haven’t needed to buy any so don’t take my word for it.

 

Note: Although it’s true I haven’t NEEDED to buy any parts for it, I’ve bought plenty of upgrades 😁

 

[1/35 scale Jeep kit (Orlandoo Hunter OH35A01)]

The supplier emailed me, apologising for not having replaced the faulty shock shaft that came with the kit and said he would send me an alternative.

These arrived today. Metal bodied adjustable shocks.

 

 

 

They are close to the same length but offer an additional 2mm of travel. That might sound laughable but when you consider that’s almost an extra 30%, it’s massive. (4.5mm travel vs 6.5mm travel).

They are much smoother too, and just generally seem better quality. Still no damping though.

Thanks very much https://www.dronejunkie.co.uk/orlandoo-hunter-motors . Great customer service 👏

 

How cool does that look? 😁

[What did the postie bring you today?]

Yesterday actually, but the postie arrived with a nice surprise. A set of 1/35th scale metal bodied, adjustable shocks. Adjustable preload that is, these things have no damping.