Fat Freddy

Ah yes, I see what you’re saying there......⁉️

I can imagine the Pro versions snapping but I have the ones I posted a link to and (I probably shouldn’t tempt fate here! Lol) they have been great, showing no signs of snapping yet, despite plenty of upside down action. But I see your point, if they do snap that’s that ( I have a set of plastic spares, just in case) whereas I guess you can probably hammer the Alu ones flat again after if you needed to. Personally think I prefer the look of the carbon but I’d bet the blue Alu ones look pretty cool too. Would be interested to see a pic if/when you fit them.

Sorry if I’m pi**ing on your chips but.... These are available....https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=365791 and although they might be a few grams heavier, I think they are stronger than the pro version as the don’t have all the cutouts. Not sure I’d want an Aluminium version.... surely prone to bending?

Fastrax do 12mm hex wheel/tyre combos for on and off-road. In fact I posted a link to YouTube in this thread a day or two ago where these guys get 56mph from a vantage. I’m sure I remember they are using the fastrax road wheels and tyres. Pretty sure modelsport stock em...... https://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-wheel-tyre-sets/rc-car-manufacturers/8/9960/996020 This isn’t what you actually asked for, a recommendation, but hopefully helpful.

Hmmm, good point. Can’t vouch for the veracity of the info I posted (don’t believe everything you see on t’interweb! 😂)... But you are assuming that manufacturers really care about long term efficiency and aren’t just going for “straight out of the box” wow factor (and after sales spares revenue?).

@locky posted these charts in General Electric. Enormously helpful guide to choosing the right motor. From what I can gather a vantage won’t last long on a 3s, so assuming most of us running 2s, as you can see, using the theory below ( that 30,000rpm is the sweet spot ) a 4000kv motor should be ideal. But I’m inclined to think that, allowing for the extra drag 4wd brings, a 3800kv motor might be a better choice??  Or am I misinterpreting the charts? Or is any of this really that critical at relatively low (2s) voltage? [When I first came to this forum after a 30 yr break from RC I barely understood what most of you were talking about. It’s nice to have learned so much in the last few weeks 😁👍]

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored-brushless-esc-120a.html?affiliate_code=FCZHAHTDOWUHXCH&_asc=3148386699 out of stock in uk/Eu at mo 🤨

Ah, ok, that makes sense, thanks.

(Thanks....The hardened steel spur gear you sold me is excellent btw. Am very happy with my purchase 😁👍) Re THIS topic... Have ZERO knowledge of brushless! I feel another steep learning curve coming on 😂 So why would a lower KV motor be better? Surely higher KV = higher power? Or is it like with brushed where more turns means more torque and less means more speed? And I DO have bigger wheels, but adjust the gearing accordingly (running your .32 spur with a 13t pinion atm), wouldn’t that be the same as (or similar to) using a 16t pinion with the stock wheels? And finally, what is cogging?

Anyone on here fitted one of these goolrc combos? This seems to cheap to be any good surely? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183870643259 £24 for a BL motor AND esc?? IF, I get any positive feedback on these from you guys, I might take the plunge. I’m already using 2s lipo, would that be a good match to this combo?

Anyone beat this? My (brushed) best is 21mph 🤨 ‘ What’s yours? https://youtu.be/qn2Odyvc-8o

At only about £20 for a carbon top plate, even setting aside the health risks, the time it would take to cut to shape and drill, I personally wouldn’t have thought it worth the effort.

RtR = Ready to rebuild. Hate to say it but there will always be something with these cars, but that does sort of become part of the charm. They are built to a price and as such are relatively easy to break. Luckily parts and spares are pretty cheap and sorting these issues can be immensely satisfying. The 1060 will help but it sounds like @Jay R might be right. Even a relatively small amount of resistance can add up to a heavy draw on the battery after 5 mins of high speed bashing = short run times and overheated esc’s.

Thanks. Because I couldn’t feel any resistance in the transmission when working on it, I was convinced it had to be an electrical/electronic issue. I was wrong, but as a result have a better Esc, better batteries, and better motor so not all bad (except my wallet is a bit lighter 😂). Lesson learned.

Not expecting much from it, at £9.50 INCLUDING shipping, not too bothered if I have to hack it up to make it fit. Watch this space. Mines a vantage (with a carnage bumper and wheels/tyres) so not as wide as a carnage. Will probably have to do a fair bit of cutting to make it fit. Have to wait a month for it to arrive tho.

@Jay R I quite like the look of this one 👍 https://banggood.app.link/Wo1YZ43HxY

Thanks

What’s it called? They seem to have lots and I’m lazy. Maybe post a link?

I wasn’t aware there was a rule on number of pics but there is a max file size.....1.86MB. Maybe crop it, or reduce the resolution of the pic?

Update on my “mystery problem” (this might interest you @whitling2k ? Goes to show how much of an affect even a simple fault can have). Early on in this little saga I decided to fit a new steering servo..... I was fitting the carbon top-plate and noticed the blue anodising on the main drive shaft had worn. It seems that when I fitted the servo, I failed to notice that it was a full 3mm bigger than the original and the base of the servo was touching the drive shaft. Heres a rubbish picture of the base of the servo with the drive shaft alongside.... I packed the servo mounts with washers to pull it clear of the drive shaft but I didn’t think this was enough of an issue to cause the problems I’ve been having. The next bash, I got a 30 minute run with no slowdown! Although it didn’t cause enough friction to slow anything down when it was stationary, obviously at speed this caused enough drag to draw extra power from the battery and overheat the Esc enough to go into protection mode. I feel a bit stupid it took me so long to spot it but I can’t tell you how pleased I am to have got to the bottom of it. 👍😄👍 Thanks to @BashingBrian , @mydoddy69 , @Fly In My Soup, @Nickarla , @Jamil237237 , and anyone else who offered helpful suggestions and support. Appreciate it, thanks. (And looking at that pic, I really must spend more time cleaning!)

Like the alternative body shell. Where’s it from?

Replaced original nylon spur gear and brass pinion for a 32dp hardened steel versions. Very happy with the results so far. Actually runs quieter than the plastic gear!?

Thanks for all your responses. Fitted a hardened steel 32dp spur gear and pinion. Wasn’t sure I’d got it right, but took it for a test run last night and it runs quieter than the plastic one! Also wasn’t sure I’d chosen the best size pinion to replicate the original gearing ratio but it recorded exactly the same top speed so all in all....result.

Thanks for this. Funnily enough have ordered a 32dp hardened steel spur gear and hardened steel pinions. Arriving today so guess what I’ll be doing on my Friday night?!

Got to admit I enjoy fiddling with it as much as playing with it.... but we’re not talking about that, we’re talking about RC cars.... 😂 You are right though, there is a lot of satisfaction to be gained from fixing stuff you’ve broken. I just seem to be better at the breaking than the fixing at the moment.