nareik72

Hi, last year I purchased a Hyper VS with an LRP .28 engine. The engine is currently paired with the standard hyper VS exhaust. Is there a better alternative I should look into getting? I like the look of the LRP Screamer93 pipe, has anyone got experience with it? I will also be dropping 1/2 teeth on the clutch bell, not sure if that will impact the exhaust choice? Thanks for your help!

Thanks for the reply, I've had to lean out the LSN somewhat to actually get the engine to idle. It's still spitting a decent amount of out of the exhaust and I'm having to put an old rag over the engine to keep some heat in the engine. Barely going over 150 degrees F according to the temp gun. Only breaking it in so just idling doing short slow figure 8's I'm running on modeltechnics 25% and while it may not be the best, but I've never had any issues. I'm running on #3 plugs which I believe are "medium/hot" they're just spare ones I had, I've always used them with no issue And I'm only using a cheap 1.2v igniter that I've always used. I'm just confused as the 2nd plug died and the engine hadn't even fired. Literally pulled the pullstart a few times and the brand new plug was knackered. I've just had a quick check of the fuel tank/tubing and everything seems perfect, its a brand new buggy. Just confused as I've never had this happen before. Thanks again for the reply! 🙂

Hi all, I have a new LRP ZR28 Spec 4. I ran the first few tanks gently with the provided glow plug, eventually, it failed. I replaced the plug with a brand new one and ran another few tanks through it yesterday no issue. I took the car out today and it wouldn't start, checked the plug and there was no glow, the filament inside of the plug looked very damaged. I replaced the plug with another new one, checked it and it was fine. Placed it in the car, pulled the starter a few times and again it wouldn't start. I checked the plug and it looked exactly the same as the one I'd just replaced, very damaged filament and no glow. Is there a reason why this may be happening? I didn't see anything online suggesting I'd need a specific type of plug. I used standard glow plugs with a washer. The car ran fine on the same type of plug yesterday, I only pulled the starter a few times today and broke 2 plugs. I have attached photos of both plugs. Thanks in advance for your help!

Its just a stock hpi trophy truggy 4.6 i picked up 2nd hand. I used to have a hobbyking bsr berserker 6s truggy, it was huge and was too powerful for its own good, it practically ripped itself apart. This massively put me off truggies until I got the hpi. Perhaps I ought to look into something of higher quality like the new corally/arrma truggy options rather than the typhon.

I never thought of that. The trophy truggy glides over rough surfaces and you can see the suspension working. It dives under braking and lifts a front wheel under hard acceleration and turning. It has so much more control in the air. The typhon is low and suspension is hard meaning you really don't get any of this, it doesn't have the same character that the truggy has. That coupled with the lack of noise, smell and tuning, doesn't leave you with much. Now I have another dilemma! Maybe it isn't electric vs nitro, it's truggy vs buggy 🤯

Thanks for all your replies, you've all given me the motivation to at least get the typhon out and spend a bit of time with it and get it out when the weather clears up. Maybe I'll fall in love again. Thanks for your recommendations, too 😁

Hi, as the title suggests, I'm losing interest in electric rc. I have had numerous RC's of all kinds. Micro, large scale, electric, nitro etc. I recently got a typhon 6s and quickly fell in love. However, a few months ago I picked up a hpi trophy truggy 4.6, my first nitro for a couple of years. I remember one day taking the typhon and hpi for a bash, first running the hpi and having a great time. I then switched to the typhon and it almost felt boring. It was fast and jumped high, but it just felt like nothing. I've run the typon once since then and it was okay until the steering servo died and since then its been sat on the shelf and I have no real motivation to sort it. I'm considering selling it and getting a nitro buggy to run alongside the hpi truggy at a local track. Is this a good decision? It would mean that both of my main RC's are nitro and while I do have areas to run them, I know how much hassle they can be sometimes. I have a few smaller electric RC's to mess with, but nothing else like the typhon. Has anyone else been in a similar situation? I like the idea of having one of each, but I'm just not liking electric at the moment. What should I do? and if I were to buy a new nitro, what would be recommended? Thanks

I literally just had a look, and yes it is a force engine they're using in it. Maybe I should be doing more research 🤦‍♂️

Also, I've always been tempted by the force engines. I was looking to fit one in a hyper 7 buggy a couple of years ago. Are they a worthwhile upgrade over the 4.6 in the hpi?

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I just managed to get a virtually brand new hpi trophy truggy for £230. It seemed like good value but it was a bit of an impulse buy and I hope I dont regret it 😂. Are there any real weak spots that should be upgraded in the future? Thanks again 😁

I'm looking to sell a few RC's to fund a new nitro truggy/buggy for the summer. I'll be using it down the local field with a bmx ramp i have to do a few jumps (nothing too crazy) and potentially taking it to my local track to have some fun with. Speed is obviously an important factor, as well as parts support/durability. So far the hpi trophy truggy and hyper sst are the ones I'm mainly looking at. Which is better or what else would you reccomend. These truggies are already stretching my original budget so I cant get anything much more expensive. However I love the larger size/style of them compared to 1/8 buggies. If there are any recommendations on 1/8th buggies they're also more than welcome. I've looked at the hypers currently on sale but I've heard that the engines arent too great. The inferno neo 3.0 seems a little overpriced for what it is. So if anyone has any further info on them that'd be great. Thanks 🙂

Thanks again for the info, it looks like the tt02 is the way to go. Unfortunately virtually all the tt02 D chassis are out of stock. So would a standard tt02 with esc, plus the bearing kit, a decent servo, drift wheels and paint etc, totalling around £190 be a good deal? The only thing missing would be oil shocks I believe, but they would be added in future. Or is it worth finding a tt02D in stock. Since it has the sport tuned motor, bearings and oil shocks as standard? End price would be probably be similar once a servo, esc and paint has been included

Oh yes I forgot to mention the tamiya. A fair amount more expensive, is it worth the extra? Also are there any key differences between the tt01 and the tt02 drift chassis?

Hi, me and a friend are interested in getting into some basic drifting for fun. Although not strictly based on drift chassis, the simplicity of the shaft driven banzai/strada DC appeals to my friend. Are they a decent enough platform to have some fun in a car park? He has also seen the flying fish from hsp, which, although has a bad reputation, appears to be near identical to the strada DC, does anybody know if it's a clone? Also for hop ups/cosmetic changes, which would be better in the long run? I personally have access to a mission D by hobbyking. I believe it's a clone of the yokomo DRB? Are parts available? Or is it best to pick up a cheap doner car for parts? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks

Great! Thank you

Thanks for the reply, Yes will do, been running nitro recently and its criminal that I havent already got one 🙄. So was I right in thinking the v4 comes with a 14t stock? I couldnt find it anywhere online

Hi, I just managed to pick up a typhon 6s v4 2nd hand. It has the stock pinion, which I believe to be the 14t? Would I think the included speed pinion is 20t? Could I get away with using a 16t for just general offloading etc? Are there any cooling modifications or any other upgrades recommended? Car is running 6s Thanks

Looking into the absima stoke 6s. Information about the vehicle is hard to come by as I dont speak German and all the videos are in that language. Does anyone have any first hand experience with it? Can it really handle 6s power? Is it worth getting the 6s version over the 4s version? Is it worth getting at all or just go with an arrma 3s? Thanks

Excellent, thank you for the replies, the motor is slightly lower kv and the esc is 150a I think which should be fine. I tend to be quite sympathetic with the models temp wise etc so should be fine. I think you've convinced me, whether that's a good thing or a bad thing I'm not sure 😂

Thanks for the reply. The absima stoke does look appealing. I would likely go with the 6s version though. I had a BSR berserker a few years ago, a big 6s truggy, and it ripped itself to pieces every run. Do you think the 6s stoke would be able to take a few jumps/bad landings? Can the chassis handle 6s power?

The battery tray for the associated is roughly 55mmx145mm The battery I'm using is 130mmx40mm Height isnt an issue as it uses velcro straps. I haven't had any personal experience with the brushless strada cars. However I have converted a brushed strada to a brushless car using a hobbywing setup and have got quite amazing results. However, for someone who is brand new to the hobby, I'm not sure it's the best way to go. But it depends how mechanically minded and confident you are. It is an easy job, but I've been in the hobby for a good few years now, when I first started I wouldnt have had a clue lol. Definitely something to consider though.

Oh yes the battery tray is on the small side. The one on Amazon I linked is a great fit. I measure up in the morning and let you know

Glad to be able to help, any other questions let me know, enjoy!

Another thing about lipo charging. You may have seen that all lipo batteries have the main connector, and small white connector sticking out. This is for balance charging. When charging a lipo always balance charge rather than just a normal charge. This makes sure that all 3 of the cells are charged to the same voltage and keeps the battery healthy. It's very simple, just select balance charge on the screen

The chargers normally come with an assortment of connectors, just plug the right one for your battery into the charger. The modelsport one comes with a Dean's connection and an xt60 connection I think. These are two very common connectors. So yeah the charger comes with the correct connector for you to charge the battery in the power bundle. You can always buy connectors for the charger separately if you ever need to. For example if you got a battery with an ec5 connector, you can buy an ec5 cable for a couple quid thatll fit straight into your charger. It is recommended to have a lipo safe bag. It's just a very basic fireproof bag that you can put the battery in when charging and when storing. Just in case anything terrible happens it's good to have.