kwijibo

Edit: two short runs later and the gears stripped! DOh. Might have been because I added grease when I reassembled the servo.... My PowerHD lw20 servo stalled on full lock when I powered up the car. When dismantled I found the legs of the potentiometer corroded and one had snapped. Now I know this is a budget servo, but I hate throwing things out so I went searching for a replacement pot. Found one that looked very similar: Futaba Y-l39668, Pot VR TR133-15 Example here: https://www.gravesrc.com/futaba-vr-tr133-15-pot.html Not readily available in the UK it seems, but found one on eBay, the packet looked about 20 years old. Not exactly cheap (£6) for a simple pot, but decided to risk it.... Happily, it fitted perfectly and was easy to solder the wires on. The servo is now up and running again in my Axial Wraith.

They are very good value and do more than I need. I also won't go back to sticks. I bought a second one.

FTX vantage? Then you can share parts with the bugsta. Hobby king call it the quantum vandal. Consider the brushed version to start up. You will eventually end up looking at the 1:8 stuff when things start breaking all the time. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Don't worry, if the car is going forward when you tell it to, the motor is turning in the correct direction. Wire colour in this context is irrelevant. ... It IS relevent in the battery to ESC connection! Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

It's not a work around, it's standard set up procedure. The ESC will be programmed to be slower backwards. The motor doesn't care which way it turns. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I find the cheap fastrax wheel tyre combo with cuboid tread are perfectly good enough for bashing with a vintage Tamiya. You could easily spend double, but really don't need to. Here is a link to the the fronts https://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-1-10th-mounted-cuboid-black-buggy-wheels-and-tyres-front/rc-car-products/434084 Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Many would recommend Overlander for batteries and chargers. Hobby king are good value, perhaps not as good in quality control. I've bought some packs from "component shop". Make sure you check the for sales area on this forum as there are often NiMH packs being moved on from new ready to run models. If you are buying a charger, you might as well buy one that can charge lipo batteries as well, you never know where this experiment will take you! Look out for a charger that takes 240v mains input as some expect 12v DC input, which means you need a power supply as well. Have fun. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Thanks again. I've ordered the gears.

Thanks both. I'm a bit inexperienced in the crawling scene as you can tell. I'll probably leave as is for now and see how we tend to drive. At the moment is partly a park cruiser and partly a casual crawler.

Following a trail side discussion of what a differential was, my 6yr old son asked if we could unlock the locked differential in our Axial Wraith. Good question. Looking at the manual, there is no differential that I can see. Are differential gears available as option? I guess not, so wonder why the marketing bumf mentions the term. My son then went on to suggest that channel 3 of his transmitter could be assigned to lock or unlock the diff... Excellent idea. Need one of those Traxxas jobs then!

Sorry, pocket post please delete

What does the freewheel setting do? Seems like it would do the opposite of drag brake.

Yes! This ESC makes all the difference with descending. Dartmoor's settings seem good, I just needed a little less punch and reverse speed. Thanks all for help

Very kind, thanks. I'll set up like this and take it from there. What I'd like most is a proportional brake. So I can descend as I would on a mountain bike, for example. Not sure if that's possible.

Thanks In FBR mode you get brake from the first reverse trigger movement. Is that dependent on drag brake setting? What happens if freewheel is set? I'm looking to control descent.