Bog Standard

If they are 5mm x 22mm then these are quite hard wearing; http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/phatdad-5mmx22mm-replacement-dowel-pin-kits-for-the-losi-dogbones..html

Been away for a bit, but yes when I began the strip down of engine the problem became obvious; So with a cracked cylinder, and because it's an Oddified engine, I'm currently waiting for the rebuilt tuned engine from Mr O

Ok, looks like a complete re-build then

*groove on piston

Maybe it has got something to do with the ring, as Roverman suggested, as i've fitted a brand new carb, which hasn't solved the problem other than the prime bubble working nicely. I did notice when I took the cylinder off that the little locating pin in the groove on the cylinder, which stops the ring sliding round the piston, was almost worn away, so could be losing compression there ?

Ps sorry to losi8igh if my reply to your post seemed a bit rude

It's also a new tank, and I've tried it with both the new and the old cap ( the new cap had a slightly different rubber gromet under) and no joy, the primer bubble fills up easy, and pumps fuel back down the return line, so I assumed the breather was ok

Yes, it's had 2 cylinders and 1 new piston and ring, about a year ago But I only race with it, don't hardly bash, and only been to 2 meets this year i put my thumb over spark plug hole to feel the compression/suck, but don't have a point of reference from when it was running

Yes, been running this engine for 2 years, and the lines are the right way round

My race tuned CY 26cc stopped during race and last week, it hadn't seized but no life at all I was having some carb issues, so after a lightweight look into the carb, (I had refurbed it earlier in the year) I decided to get a new one as the primer bubble also hadn't been sucking the fuel up so well. I put in a new coil and spark plug, I'm getting a spark and the original kill switch is working The little hole from crankcase to carb is not blocked, and after inspecting top of piston, apart from some pitting ? seems ok So after a tip from a mate I put a teaspoon of fuel in through the sparkplug opening, put sparkplug back and it fired up easy and ran for a few seconds till the teaspoon of fuel ran out. That seems to have narrowed it down to an issue of the fuel not getting round the crankcase and back up into the combustion chamber, when I took the cylinder off to inspect piston & ring the ports etc are all clear. Not looking for a new engine unless this problem is terminal, and will post back to Mr Oddie if it's beyond my capabilities, but if it's a relatively straight forward issue I'll give it a go

If your heart is set on a Losi 5, I would try and get some more funds together and look for a decent second hand one, if you dive in now at the cheapest 1/5 around you may still end up spending on upgrades and spares and still maybe not have what you want? When I first got a five, I sold my Tamiya FF-01 1/10, my Ansman Deuce 1/8 and Losi 1/8 2.0 buggies, along with anything else I could flog to get the 5. 1/5 scale is not cheap, but if you can manage somehow to scape the funds together over a bit of time to get even a well used 5, you will have a good foundation to build up the car you want IMO.

A big advantage of turning the engine round is that the cool air coming in the front gets blown through the engine fins and then hot air straight out the back, so I found at my first race, no overheating problems. The brakes are on a pin through the whole height of the diff housing, giving good leverage, and along with the pads I'm currently running brake servo travel at 25-30%. The steering set up is excellent and very easy to set up and work on. It's not indestructable, and not cheap though !!

First shake down after race at Nook, needed quite a bit of servicing, (and a new petrol tank as losing a rear brake pad had ripped a small hole in tank! ) http://sendvid.com/cbn7upls

MMR raceway is only about an hour from you, there website is http://www.mmrraceway.co.uk/

The stock Losi 26cc is a CY engine, at least it was on mine, why not get the cash back on the backordered engine and send your 26cc to Ian Oddie for a rebuild and tune up, it will save you money and you'll have a great engine

cool

How is that 5p held on?

Here is centre diff with brake calipers & pads mounted Front & rear diffs, the alloy casings have a built in "O" ring, so only need the rubber O ring on the crown gear side Rear end and servos added Shocks - enough travel ? The kit is very good quality, and should be at the $$, extremely tight tolerances at times for example screwing the very tough shock ends on the shock shafts required a good vice at large pressure - but at this moment very happy, and because it's been developed by racers everything is designed for easy access. One more pic for now

The engine/clutch/pinion mounting is unique, very easy to adjust for different pinion/spur gears and access to clutch and bell is also easy

k, here are some pics, its not a build manual ! just a few snapshots along the way Some of the jewlery out of the box Front end parts layed out Front end on the 6mm chassis

Sorry, yes it's a bit of a tease at the moment, will post more pics soon

Finally got kit at end of May, and 3 weeks later I'm ready to go racing

(-:AD:-) is correct

Neil at N Design http://www.ndesigncustompaint.com/15-buggy.html Is very good and has always turned my bodies round within a week

N-R-P have a new web site, the 5ive buggy conversion stuff is here http://www.n-r-p.nl/contents/en-uk/d18_Buggy_conversion..html