Bunny_Basher

Cut a strip of rubber from an old bicycle inner tube - mind you, unless you ride bikes and get punctures on a regular basis, this option will prob cost more than the proper fitting

I like the idea of the solid windscreens, but will be interested in your experiences of engine temps with the semi enclosed shell. I guess high temp will be less of an issue with BL motors, but am concerned about potential overheating on cars fitted with IC motors. What is the thickness of the (assumed polycarbonate) shell? I appreciate that you probably won't be able to tell until the protective film is removed, but any evidence of moisture bubbles in the material? or similar thermo moulding defects.

I've seen some alloy wheels listed for Losi on some obscure website in the past, easier (but costly) to get them anodised in gold. I'll see if I can find the link.

Main/first change = would swap out the can muffler and fit a proper expansion exhaust. I fitted a BZM Micro to my 5ive T, found that it also fitted the WRC perfectly, so got a second pipe. Now both cars have the same exhaust Found that it really wakes up the stock 29cc Dynamite motor.

Retaining spring http://radiocontrolracing.co.uk/epages/62f803ea-babc-40f7-92ac-4405acab24f1.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62f803ea-babc-40f7-92ac-4405acab24f1/Products/7113 Spring kit http://radiocontrolracing.co.uk/epages/62f803ea-babc-40f7-92ac-4405acab24f1.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62f803ea-babc-40f7-92ac-4405acab24f1/Products/2263

Do you mean the springs between header and the main pipe, or the spring retaining the main pipe into the cradle? If the former, you must be using the wrong length as I never had one fail/break when I had a SAMBA on my Losi. If the later, I changed to using a large O-ring, never had one break.

Nigel, Not my first purchase from Freeprawn, so aware of the 5% rebate via points - but my above post was factually correct and I was careful with the wording (I do after all, write and administer Contracts for a living )... ...fully accept that there may be a latent rebate which I can realise against a future purchase, but I did end up paying nearer the £160 than the £140 lowest price I could find. The use of rebate point schemes can be a useful tool to promote customer loyalty and help build up a positive cash balance within a business. But personally as a customer I'd rather just have the headline ticket prices reduced by 5%. I could have then agreed that the cost @£147.48 was nearer the £140 than the £160

Before I get home tonight, can someone please confirm if the stock Losi servo horn will fit the S9020 (15-spine?). I naively assumed that it would, but having seen a number of suppliers selling a 15-spine metal servo horn, starting to think that its another purchase I need.

I bought a genuine Dremel, but the accessories have all been purchased via Alibaba (aka China direct from the factory). If you can pre plan and cope with the 2-3 week shipping time, you can get the same cutting disks, collets, handgrips, cutting guards etc etc for a 1/10th of what the branded Dremel items cost via UK retailers. I spent under £30 and have so many bits and pieces, I probably won't need to buy anything for the operating life of the Dremel.

I know, my order was placed on Tue I could have ordered one elsewhere for £140 collected (not in stock), but being the sort that wants my stuff now, I ended up paying nearer the £160 (incl P&P).

S9020 on the way, seems to be limited stock in the UK - which is contributing to the high price. I've seen almost £20 difference between the least/most expensive - with only those selling at the top end having any in stock

Simple job, what are you struggling with? You'll need a servo lead extension to reach the receiver if positioning the killer switch in the battery box. Just follow the instructions that came with the Killer switch, plug the extended lead into Aux 2, leave the AVC in Aux 1. Depending upon your TX, you may have more issues setting that up, but essentially you have to assign a free button on your TX to operate Aux 2 on the Rx. Simples really

Grommet looks split in the photo?

Brilliant demo In summary, because the 2-stroke engines we run do not have valves (unlike a 4-stroke engines), the back pressure which builds up in the expansion chamber style exhaust prevents the new fuel charge from escaping through the exhaust port (and helps compress the fuel charge) just before ignition. The more compressed fuel/air contained in the cylinder = more powerful engine The relationship between porting of the cylinder/piston skirt and size/volume and shape of the exhaust expansion chamber is the magic art of tuning a 2-stroke engine

+1 on the Area RC diff frame

I have one fitted on both my Losi 5ive T (with SCZ reed racing engine) and my Losi Mini WRC (stock 29cc engine). On the Mini the stock engine has really woken up, more snappy response compared to stock muffler and more power low down. On the 5ive, as the SCZ is essentially a copy of the BZM engine, the BZM exhaust is a perfect match tuned for the engine. IMHO, neither pipes as fitted sound exceptionally loud, no more so than the SAMBA I replaced on the 5ive - and that's considered a 'quiet' pipe. Okay, if running near houses you would attract unwelcome attention, but hey you should be running your cars on a big open field with nice jumps

I'm confused (easily done tbh), but the post and the original post asks about a modified WT-990, but then you get on your high horse because no one explicitly answered a question relating to a WT-1107.... ...like I said, I'm easily confused, so maybe I'm missing something here But as Carp indicated, its unlikely that there is a 'one size fits all' ideal carb set up as we all tend to run our cars differently, even if there is a similarity in engine/carb, - the air filter, exhaust, ambient temperature, altitude etc will affect the carb tune. Hence with all the differing permutations you will inevitably end up with a slightly bespoke tune for you specific setup.

Ummm....why? The Outerwears are designed to keep stuff (mostly dust and dirt) from being sucked into the air filter and flywheel/fan housing. The fuel tank, by design, is sealed and not subject to negative pressure so an outerwear on a fuel tank serves no purpose, except maybe aesthetics.

Best protection is ShoeGoo & plasterers joint reinforcing mesh Finish your paint job, incl backing coat(s), then apply mechanical protection to stop scratching/impact damage. Also reinforces the shell against splits and cracking Unless you use something like a sprayed plastic coating (i.e. Line-X or similar), no paint finish is going to survive the general wear and tear our RC cars are subjected to.

If the right material O-rings are used, then a good durable seal can be achieved. On a prior (Samba) exhaust, I had Viton O-rings which are still going strong. Problem is people/suppliers use Butyl or Nitrile ones which although fuel/solvent proof are only good for max temps of 230F-250F. Viton is good for 400F so perfect for headers. Silicone O-rings are good for 450F, but have very low mechanical properties, so will 'tear' or split...not good for a slip-on header/exhaust joint.

I recently purchased 2x BZM Micro exhausts from a well known RC supplier. (Name currently witheld pending their response to my complaint), but have found that the supplied O-rings have completed melted and are destroyed. One of the exhaust I have checked was blowing at the header....on a nearly new exhaust (2x tanks only), not something I expected. When I tried separating it, it seemed glued... ...in fact both O-rings had completed melted and were destroyed The engine is a stock Losi 29cc and the car has been barely run in, certainly not run to excessive temps. It seems to me that someone has supplied bog standard rubber O-rings of the correct size, but not ones suitable for high temperature, i.e. Viton or similar. Anyone else had a similar problem? I can't upload photos, it says max size 40kb (which is stupidly small), but won't even accept something at 36kb!!! What's wrong?

Jeez, €2.9k and it does not include engine/clutch, wheels, servos... So that's an expensive chassis/body shell and shocks!!!! I reckon you could have a bespoke chassis and shock set milled for that sort of money... Am I missing nothing here?

I've got an ST and had similar issue with starting. Mine was producing a good spark, and was getting fuel to the cylinder, but an airleak in the carb (diaphram) resulted in it being a bitch to start. Replaced the carb (as I had one spare from another car) = started first time. But before you go swapping or replacing parts check you are getting a good spark to start with.

If you are running a car with crud large enough to be caught by that filter, I'd advise flushing your tank / fuel lines! Prevention is always better than cure.

Wrong section to post queries about boats or props This section is for cars, so prob not a huge body of knowledge to offer advice.