Jetman71

SOLD

BUMP - Price reduction £170 inc. postage Come on fellas needs a good home

BUMP. Last chance - further reduction - £240 inc. postage - Going on ebay tomorrow.

BUMP £260 is my final offering.

BUMP - open to offers

Axial Yeti RTR. Only used twice and bought in August 2016. Original packaging, as well as unopened spare parts. Unopened aluminium upgrade parts included (Upper link plate set and lower link plate set) worth £35 £340 inc. postage NOTE: Simply selling because it's not what I really wanted. Features: Hi-Lo transmission with all metal internal gears (Optional two-speed transmission component sold separately) Independent front suspension and rear AR60 OCP-Axle™ 3150kV 4-pole brushless motor provides massive amount of power 2.2 BFGoodrich Krawler™ Officially licensed 2.2 Walker Evans Racing IFD™ Wheels Waterproof Vanguard ESC - 3S LiPo Waterproof receiver box integrated into bottom of chassis Water resistant motor Water resistant steering servo WB8 HD Wild Boar rear driveshaft with updated larger diameter design Adjustable aluminum shock bodies Specification: Length: 19.5" (495mm) Width: 12.3" (312mm) Height: 7.7" (195mm) Wheelbase: 14.2" (360mm) Ground Clearance: 2" (50mm) Weight: 6.5lbs (2.9kg) Motor: Water Resistant Brushless 3150KV 4 Pole Electric Motor Radio AX-3 2.4GHz transmitter Servos: Water Resistant Tactic TSX45, 151 oz-in ESC: Vanguard AE-3 ESC, 3S LiPo, 8 NiCELL, Forward / Reverse, Waterproof

Something like this would be suitable? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__73766__ZIPPY_Compact_5000mAh_3s_40c_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34288__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html

Many thanks. What would you recommend?

Just got myself an Axial Yeti RTR 1:10. Quick question - can it run on 3S without shredding gears etc or does it need any change in setup to accommodate 3s?

Yes, I did look at these, including pulling them out. They appeared OK, however I could not work out how to remove one of them. Think I know now so will have another look. Diff oil appeared to be a silver colour. Wondering if the gears could do with a good clean and some new diff oil while I'm at it.

Will have a look at each of the drive cups starting with the two centre ones either side of the spur gear. Just happened to also stumble across a vid on YT of a guy pulling apart his rear diff and cleaning it on his MT Flux. Having watched this I may need to pull mine apart again as the gears and diff oil in mine looked really dirty compared to his. I've never cleaned the gears in the back or changed the diff oil, despite pulling it apart tonight. Guess I'm still learning? What weight diff oil should I be using? Can I use the same in the front and back diffs?

Thanks for the quick responses and suggestions. On closer inspection (and it might be nothing but I will take apart and have a proper look) there appears to be a lot play where the rear centre drive shaft goes into the cup joint at the centre of the truck. I can rotate the drive shaft and it almost disappears into the cup joint - surely it should lock in place better than that?

Aaaah! Spent the last two hours working out and then taking apart the rear diff - had a close look including the gears - cannot see any evidence of worn parts or broken teeth but won't lie, it's new to me so I might have missed something. Test drove and still the noise. So on to the front! Just a question though .... what would I be looking for if the noise was coming from the middle. The Spur gear has no damage to it but has never been replaced. Is there a chance it could be that? It doesn't appear worn but I'm not entirely sure what a worn spur gear would look like?

Thanks for the advice. Something I've done in the past with my quadcopters but thanks for the reminder?