dazp1976

I have Trophy Truggy and to be honest the optimum equipment you want are: 1: A charger of minimum 80w output that does 5A or more. 2: A 4s 5000+mah battery that is rated at least 60C. 3: A Deans/T-plug connector adapter for the battery if it don't have Deans fitted to put battery on one side of the 2 ESC connections. 3: A Deans/ T-plug loop connector for the other side of the ESC (10AWG size cable) The above will give you a charge time of less than 1hr and the maximum run time you can get. If you go for 2*2s then get 2 cheap as you can 50w chargers (1 for each lipo) gives you less than 1hr charge time. 2 batteries of at least 60C that are the same mah capacity. 2 connector adapters (no Deans loop needed this time)

I have some quite old bog standard steel ones I still use which are still good. Most hex key sets these days are Chrome Vandium which I think is crap. Many here seem to be saying the Arrowmax or Eds so go with either of those.

I normally get the cup point type 1mm longer than I need and file/dremmel them down to a smooth end. Seems atm I can only find official flat point M4x3mm or 4mm long ones from China (go figure ) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-TENSILE-12-9-GRUB-SCREWS-SOCKET-SET-SCREWS-FLAT-POINT-BLACK-OXIDE-M4-4mm/122038646075?hash=item1c6a11f53b:m:mSCshZWfGhM50nNB4BQZY5Q For 99p per pack of 20 it's worth the wait to order both lengths and try them out

A different wiring tool set to custom make more of my own cables. For stripping wires and crimping JST, molex connectors etc.

Like I've said before: The HPI ones have got this stupid indent in them: Ends up with hardly any surface contact on a flat shaft motor. Slips with any amount of locker. Ditch the HPI ones and use something flatter.

You broke any front bulkheads PD09-0068 yet? Ultimately the reason I sold mine on, after breaking 4 sets in the same amount of months.

Good point. This is 4.5-6v https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-gt-2-2-4ghz-receiver-3ch.html?countrycode=GB&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cDaBRBtEiwAsxprXY3FaAP4nNn4gwxW72r7lB_5CKK4l7yVb7HouvHkAupbWeHlpmJalhoCPO0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&___store=en_us This says 4-6.5v https://www.banggood.com/FS-GR3F-Receiver-For-RC-Car-And-Boat-p-1060762.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts__4&cur_warehouse=CN This shows 5v https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FlySky-FS-GT3C-GT2B-GT3B-GT2-2-4Ghz-3CH-Receiver-For-RC-Car-Boat-MB-/142749833227 I think you need to use the BEC. Totally pointless this HV stuff!

Problem is we're talking the £400-£450 bracket. A Mugen or Tekno setup can come in £700+

May have to put up with it for a couple of tanks without revving it. Read the manual fully and follow the instructions. You'll get there in the end. Engine manual: https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/111603-f35_v2-glb-m-v1.pdf

The lightning was o.k. but they cheaped it out with thinner/softer aluminum components and also cast ally parts instead of cut. Called it a Trophy and there you have it. Been through no end of knuckles, shock shafts, axles.. Been on the shelf for nearly 2 years now.

Is it brand new? They're set quite rich to start with for the break in process and the idle isn't really set at all.

I wouldn't bother with the HPI Trophy line. They fall apart and rip screw threads in the cast ally parts. Savage flux XL looks stupid imo. Stick with the Arrma or Hobao lines. Parts support for most rc stuff isn't great anyway so makes no odds. Could look at the Kyosho stuff as well and see what you think.

I'm inclined to agree. I don't know much of on road so I'd prob get a 1/8th buggy, stiffen the shocks, lower it's ride height and see what happens. I've got a mount for the 7 that'll take a 30T pinion if you go that route. May have one with a very tight bearing hole that needs the diff tapping in a little. Should help minimize wearing at those kind of rotation speeds.

Same as. It only takes me 35mins to charge 4*6s up at 1C from storage. I can do 6 but I prefer to keep the charger at 50% capacity. I storage at 12 hours rather than 24 but many manufacts say you can leave 24 hours. I've never believed in charging straight after use either. Wait for a cool down. I've read before to charge at room temp. The best thing about having a charge system with more power than you need is that you can do a few together to start with. Then leave the used ones to cool for 30mins before putting back on the charger. While waiting for the cooling process you can still have a bash on the other set. Technically I can be out for a full day if not too far from home to re-charge. What trips some people up is when they get recommended a charge system that is not really good enough for the battery size they have. Then you have to wait a lot longer for charging. This is when people start to charge them when they have time and leave full until use. You don't want to think "ooh I'll have a run" then have to wait 1hr plus to charge up because it tops out at about 2/3rds C or less. This is why I say do the math before you buy. The downside with my biggish charge gear however is it takes a little time to unpack and then hook up the 4 batteries. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to keeping the kit packed in it's boxes

Arrma or Hobao. Either one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192599201158?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

I'm among the rebels too. I barely bought anything from the u.k. at all this year Ordered a load of electrical wiring, accessories, tooling yesterday that came to £100 However, To buy the same stuff over here would be just shy of £200!. No brainer indeed Needed some GX16 aviation connectors the other week. U.K. wanted like £2 per m/f pair. Got 10 pairs for £6.50 & a 10 day wait instead. U.K. is getting a bit ridiculous to say the least.

When you say the same oil do you mean same weight or same brand throughout? 1. For racing I'd likely use R3k,C5k,F5k + careful throttle management to prevent front wheelspin and a cooked CD. 2. For bashing I'd likely use R5k,C100k,F7k + no throttle management. Losi eight 3e (race) kit manual shows it uses number 1. HPI Vorza manual (basher) shows it uses number 2. (exception of F5k). There will be loads of differing opinions around the web if you have time to do some research.

I got 42 in the garage. Never buying anywhere with a south facing rear again

Just demonstrates how the EU restricts us so much. They have it but won't let us.

EU free trade deals, laughable. Well it's taken what 20 years negotiating with Canada and nothing. Only just getting to grips with Japan. Nothing with U.S. Nothing with India. Nothing with Aus. Need I go on. They've only got free trade between the clique 27 members that's it. Everything imported outside of there is done on W,T,O, the tariff paid, and then free to move around the 27. Sure it'll take a little time but I bet we can get deals done with most non EU states within 5 years. Then the skies the limit. Need to dump the customs union as it is though. So what if we walk away with nothing and go onto W,T,O, for now. Everything outside the EU is done w,t,o, anyway so makes no difference except when trading with the 27. So what do you want to do? stick with the clique 27 states and continue to be ripped off, or make partnerships with 83+ that's over 10+ times bigger with bigger opportunity. Considering most things are made outside of Europe these days, sticking with the 27 is a waste of space. Cut out the middleman (EU) and buy direct from the source.

Beginning to wish they would. The whole point was to make our own trade arrangements in the world (which would actually make everything cheaper!!!!!!). But being in any kind of customs union means you can't do it and they just keep banging on about being in one. Would be nice to get rc from the u.s. with no tariff because at least the u.s. stock stuff. Just pull the whole thing and let us continue on as is, to be ripped off as we are already through paying hidden forms of extra vat taxes. So Barnier and cronies can continue to laugh at us through stupid legislation & red tape, laughing all the way to the bank. Also to continue to overpopulate causing people to step on each others toes ultimately resulting in being stabbed or shot to death.

Same as you do with Trophy Truggy 4.6. Cut the mounting plate in half leaving only the servo part and a few uprights in place. Like so: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/hyper-7-brushless-conversion.65247/ He butchered his a bit much later on imo. This is enough for me.

Huh. Never noticed before. Learn something new. I'll wait another 6 months on an Arrma. I'll see what I get for my buggy when/if I ever finish putting it back together and tart up my other Trophy before I invest/waste New milling machine possibly first.

Just looking around for a u.k. Kraten or Talion. Typical of Google Tower hobbies came up Spotted this notice on their product page: WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects (or other reproductive harm). Exposure through skin contact and ingestion may occur. Really???? https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXECKV**