dazp1976

Yes you can parallel on the second one. Regenerative is for discharging. Normally when discharging you are limited by the chargers ability to take it through the psu etc. With regenerative you can hook up a big 12v car battery that is part charged and discharge into that. It quadruples and more the amount of watts/amps you can discharge at.

1. Spot on. I use them in the cnc. 2. Yep. 3. Eleccy is a dark magic. The batteries volt match themselves to each other when parallel. The main thing is not to mis-match cell counts ie: put a 4 and a 6 on. Best practice is to have the packs at as close as possible to each other in cell voltages ie: 3.8v storage. If they're too far out they can surge a lot of current between each other when first connected whilst volt matching. I've never had any problem putting on 4*6s batteries at 1C when they were between 3.76 & 3.82v per cell. By the time they're finished they're all exactly the same as each other.

There is an alternative 'copy' for half https://www.tomtop.com/p-rm8525eu.html?currency=GBP&Warehouse=CN&aid=gplaukyly&mid=10000018477&utm_source=SEM&utm_medium=Google+Adwords&utm_campaign=TT_PLA_YLY&utm_content=2945&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrqaJ0cDJ3AIVybvtCh10mAymEAQYAiABEgK0S_D_BwE Or a single 500w DC with regenerative function. https://www.banggood.com/EV-PEAK-AR1-500W-25A-DC-1-6S-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-1095822.html?gmcCountry=GB&currency=GBP&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_ods&utm_content=heath&utm_campaign=pla-heli-gb-pc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrqaJ0cDJ3AIVybvtCh10mAymEAQYAyABEgJOCvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=CN

If your batteries are all the same size in either 4s or 6s then I parallel them up with higher power. It's more efficient. Or to have the option of 2C charging each on it's own. I'd get: https://www.robotbirds.co.uk/default/isdt-sc-620-500w-20a-mini-smart-lcd-battery-balance-charger.html It takes up to 32v input so get this with it: 24v 480w or 24v 600w. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-5V-12V-24V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-CCTV-UK/162562112782?hash=item25d974fd0e:m:mXMYO2lbiTGq8KoJbasPG4Q https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-AC-5V-12V-24V-48V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-LED-LED-3D-PSU/173382227388?hash=item285e62d5bc:m:m32F17_lNnJIG7CMOURB-Dg Then a para board to suit or get a parallel harness for balance and main leads. This setup will charge anything you throw at it I have an equivalent of this: https://www.robotbirds.co.uk/default/hyperion-eos-0840i-dc-charger-8cell.html

These will do the job: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-300W-DC-12V-25A-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-For-LED-Light-Strip/253755884041?epid=8021501340&hash=item3b15078209:g:5T0AAOSw~vNaybX2

Wattage requirements get quite high if you want to do 6s at 1C. Ohms law and my digital display shows: In terms of power requirement with a 4s 5000mah I use 80w 5A. A 6s 5000mah I use125w 5A. That D100 imo is no use unless you use a separate psu to make use of it's 2*100w available. With AC it's only 2*50w which is well under par. Been there.

Agreed. About the best way to go in terms of price for the power and space needed.

I wouldn't say 1C charging (1hr) is exactly fast. I assume these are for running 6s?. In my view it's only worth bothering with electric if you can charge both batteries simultaneously and not one after the other. You want either 2 chargers (one for each) or a decent twin. Also you want a minimum of 80w 5A if you want it to last a fair while. Able to cope with 1C charging. A 50w 5A won't cut it with a 3s (read about ohms law) You'd be flat out even at a rate of only 4A and it will pop in no time If this is still available it's ideal: If you're on a budget and want simple plug/play maybe go for 2 of these: https://www.robotbirds.co.uk/default/gt-power-c607d-rc-ac-dc-80watt-6cell-bal-chg.html Or 2 of these: https://www.robotbirds.co.uk/default/t690-10amp-90watt-balance-charger-ac-dc-touch-screen.html Or one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HTRC-IMAX-QUATTRO-B6-AC-4-Port-B6-AC-80W-Multi-Chemistry-Battery-Balance-Charger/162980649630?hash=item25f2675a9e:g:MBIAAOSwwdxaxJRx with one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-24V-5V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-CCTV-UK/291087849273?hash=item43c6301739:m:mxEP0T19RNIHh38OjQcv6tQ One of these and a parallel board: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/0620ac-eu-plug-20a-300w-synchronous-balance-charger-discharger-built-in-ac-version-2.html If you're patient have a look for something from Banggood or Tomtop (China based) Such as One of these: https://www.tomtop.com/p-rm8525eu.html Or one of these: https://www.tomtop.com/p-rm7560eu.html

Scratch that..... Get yourself these ones mate https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoolRC-M1-5mm-15T-19T-Pinion-Motor-Gear-Combo-Set-for-1-8-RC-Car-Motor-K8B5/283019823985?hash=item41e54bcb71:g:HrsAAOSwL~hbLMGd Loads of U.K. listings here for the pinion sets for future reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=m1+15T+pinion&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1

Never tried those ones. I think I'm using these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brush-Brushless-Motor-Gear-15T-16T-17T-18T-19T-Pinion-M1-5mm-for-1-8-RC-Car/282594516674?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52945%26meid%3Db53df4f80a7f423d915d84f63cf75f7b%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D142853617804%26itm%3D282594516674&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 From China though. There's loads of packs on ebay from £5 upwards.

All the gear ratios are the same as on the Trophy buggy flux. (43/13 diff + 46 spur) 15T pinion is standard on that with a 1950kv motor. I'd start conservative with a 15T on the H7 and see where you're at with temperatures/speed etc. Then gear up/down if needed once you have your temp/speed/runtime data.

Have you kept the original D8 center diff mounting parts lying around or have you binned them and kept the Trophy ones on the buggy?

The only thing I'd worry about is fading if it's displayed. The perspex blocks are a very good idea.

Looking at the HW Max10 sct manual the motor limits are as below: You might be better off with 2 separate motors for 3 - 4s. Brushless Motor Limit with 2S LiPo / 6 Cell NiMH: KV≤6000 (3656 size motor) Brushless Motor Limit with 3S LiPo / 9 Cell NiMH: KV≤4000 (3656 size motor) Brushless Motor Limit with 4S LiPo / 12 Cell NiMH: KV≤3000 (3656 size motor) 2700 may be fine for 4s but lame on 3s, 3200 might be fine on 3s but go pop on 4. 1/8th size buggies usually only go as far as 2650kv (4268 size)

We'll probably get stock of stuff by 2021. Just in time for most of the spares to have gone discontinued

Stock levels are a bit pants. Overpriced too afaic. RW if anything: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-1-0-module-pinion-17-teeth-for-5mm-shaft/rc-car-products/34368 Or get an Answer RC one from ebay. Nothing Traxxas I use these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoolRC-M1-5mm-15T-19T-Pinion-Motor-Gear-Combo-Set-for-1-8-RC-Car-Motor-K8B5/283019823985?hash=item41e54bcb71:g:HrsAAOSwL~hbLMGd I like having options. Can get them cheaper than that though.

I'd have thought most 1/8 buggy bodies would fit. I quite like the Proline Predator

Where did you order from? On ebay I always use Boltbase or kays

59.8mm long, 48mm wide, 36.8mm high.

If you can solder yourself then change over to XT90. You can easily make a loop yourself for XT90 if you want to keep 2 on the esc for the option of 2*2s. Arrma make one.

Fits exactly like below, technically thinks there's 2 batteries connected in series even though there's only one 4s connected.

Sorted out the batteries and cables. Unpacked the charge equipment. Dusted the Hyper MTe off ready to take out tomorrow. Going to try this charging 12*3s lipos as 6*6s ones in a series and parallel config malarkey. And hope I built the cables right so no sparks & flames fly . I'll start small at 15A initially, if I can achieve 30A (730w) I'll be happy enough.

I'd say personally you've lost capacity through constantly running down below 3.6v during a run. That number is how many mah you are putting back in the battery. Looking at that figure in the picture, if it's a 4000 battery you're running it down so you only have 400mah left in it (10%). This will reduce it's life a fair bit. I've read somewhere that manufacturers recommend running no lower than 20% remaining under load.

I never run that low anymore. Knackered mine up to quick. Possibly yours are now struggling to volt match so the charger is constantly putting in 1 and taking out the other and vice versa. Anyway. I reckon those numbers will be around 10% capacity left in there which is 400mah on a 4000. I suggest: 1. If charger has a capacity cutoff feature then set it to put back in around 1500mah and charge on normal balance. When it cuts off it should be close to 3.8v (50% capacity). I always use this method as it saves loads of time. If they're out by 0.03v it's no biggie. As long as you always discharge them to the same voltage after a run it always works once you've initially figured out what you need to put back in to be at 3.8v. 2. Could use the cutoff timer in a similar way. If you need to put 1500mah back in it to be at 3.8v then at a balance charge rate of 3A it will take 30mins so set the timer at 30mins and balance as normal. Will cut itself off and should be close enough. If you need to put in say 1600mah to be even closer then again set to 30mins but this time you want a rate of 3.2A. Again if they end up out by a difference of 0.03v it's no biggie. As long as they are close as poss to 3.8v (50% capacity). Both methods save an absolute bundle of time instead of messing about waiting for balancing As a rule I only run my 5000's down to 3.7v and stop. I never go lower anymore. This is exactly 20% n mine (1000mah) so I either put 1500mah back in or do the 30mins at 3A and cutoff. It's bang on every time. The manufacturers usually say only run them down to 20% capacity remaining I read somewhere.