DeadMeatUK

I'm with Tug, I've made up a couple of 2S3P Li-ion packs for the losi 5ive

Get your landlord to fix it, must be a sticky valve as you're system looks like a fully pumped setup

Yes it will cost more if they continue to get hot

In which case I know exactly what's happening:) heat rises... On my old central heating I don't have a motorised valve so when the hot water switches on it heats the water and it rises up the pipes through the hot water cylinder coil and cools then the cooler water flows down the pipes and back into the boiler. The problem I have is that the radiators are on a pump but the hot water bypasses it and makes all of the upstairs radiators hot every time the boiler lights. If you have a motorised valve then its faulty. What I do is during the summer months I turn off one of the taps near the pump so the water cannot bypass it.

Is it all of the radiators or just the upstairs ones?

This is how it looks this morning Who'd thought the majority of a Losi 5ive would fit in two carrier bags? With some bits down there...with a guard cat with a gippy leg More on here... Ooh... Just found another sneaky hiding spot Happy Days Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Good reply, keep your options open!

Do I need to say anymore...? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I oil my motor bearings and use a squirt of chain spray on the spur and pinion. Most motors I've had have ZZ seals which are metal, these seals only cover 98% of the opening so spraying them will penetrate it and help. RS rubber seals should give a waterproof seal but if you spray them with a light oil it will penetrate the seal due to oil having no surface tension, this will reduce the friction of the seal making them spin better

Definitely the best BF video ever! The shots are so smooth Now why didn't you get my trucks in the any of it??

The unequal length is due to the diff position. A correctly fitted diff will be slightly to one side as it will have shims to get the correct diff crown gear to pinion mesh. This will result in the drive shafts not engaging the same amount. As Hyper's have fixed length lower arms the easiest solution is to add more camber to stop it comming out

I hope I'm wrong, however that my experience with cogging. Cogging is is caused by the ESC not knowing which fields to energise, on an unsensored motor the ESC energises any pair of fields and switches to the next when it expects the rotor to be in the correct position. From there it will detect the unenergised fields voltage which tells the ESC exactly where the rotor is to keep it in time from there. That's why some ESC cog on startup, its guessing of the rotors position on the first revolution is wrong due the the variance on the components used

Evening bud, I'm afraid it's a dodgy ESC, if it's new send it back. I've had a new ESC that cogged (Turnigy), it died soon after so sent it back and got a HobbyKing instead, it fixed the cogging...

Have you considered straightening it? I have straightened my Ansmann Terrier chassis (longer version of the terrier) lots of times. In answer to you question a Hyper7 chassis is almost identical to the virus. I have a Hyper and had a virus,and the bits have ended up switched between them over time. The differences that I remember are, you will need to drill a couple extra holes for the servo tray to line up and the diff mounts have an extra pin that will need cutting off. The front and rear diffs will bolt straight on. It's a good idea to use a Hyper7 chassis as having owned both the Hyper is more resistant to bending

I've experienced this at long range and in certain bash spots, if the signal is being affected by interference it can have a delay from the Tx to the Rx making the change. I would start by choosing a different bash spot before spending lots of time and money on possible solutions. Start with the easiest possible causes first....

If you have a telemetry receiver then it will monitor the voltage just fine. You can manually set the alarm to the correct voltage to bleep and or vibrate

I accidentally pulled the shaft out by 10mm while removing a stubbon pinion, mine is a Castle 1515 so it's not limited to cheaper motors. What I did was strip the motor clean it up and added a drop of bearing retainer on the shaft and pushed it back into place, the shaft has a flat spot so the rotor can't slip while turning. This was 6months ago and it's still running, although it's had only 8-10 packs through it... So if you have experience rebuilding motors, it could be an easy fix?

Can anyone help out a coin stricken man??

Still on the hunt for your unneeded and broken 1/5 scale servos...

Your diff screws might have come loose. If they did all of the torque would be transferred to the flexing then back and fourth under acc/brake until they work harden and break. When the screws are tight most of the torque is transmitted from the crown gear to the housing via friction between the two parts and gasket so the screws are only subjected to tension.

Good find the recycling center in Whittlesey are full of jobworths that want top money for anything that attracts interest

I'd search the web

Ttt

Benefits of Life; Life have a higher density than Nimh so you can have a lighter and smaller pack than the equilivant Nimh or more capacity for the same weight No memory effect so can be topped up at often as you like They have no natural discharge so once charged they will stay charged for the life of the pack or until you use it! Holds its voltage better than Nimh so even close to flat they will still power servos well At a nominal voltage of 6.6v (7.2v fully charged) they give standard servos a good kick without pushing them too far

You must use the correct charger. Most digital Li-Po chargers have settings to charge Li-fe and Li-ion packs in the 'program' settings