danb1974

This lipo fits without modding (it's the same chassis, with the montero body)

Actually it's the rebranded vaterra kalahari Isn't it great to just take and old model, put cheaper electronics, new paint and voila, new release

Whatever online store you fancy For instance http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/213453/

To try to move the motor further from the battery, you can buy the optional 4mm motor spacer TU0807 My motor does not rub, it stops at 1mm from the battery case. Also my batteries are 2mm shorter than the tray, so I glued a stopped into the tray. My car came with a hextronik esc, which may be compatible with the turnigy lcd program box (big emphasis on may). It is not compatible with the hobbywing lcd box. Also it should be programmable via the remote and the beep ritual, but lacking detailed instructions, I don't want to try. I don't even use the stock esc because it shoots of from standstill, no low rpm at all.

Consider switching to 2.4ghz radio gear. No more long antenna, interference, poor range and crystals...

"bec" originally comes from "battery eliminator circuit" (because lacking it, you would use a separate small battery for the rx and servo). You should find plenty of documentation about rc terminology on the net. Since you do not want that small battery, somewhere there has to be a voltage regulator that powers rx and servo with 5V or 6V (supposing we use normal servo, not high voltage servo) Nowadays that thing (still called a bec) lives inside the esc (any other esc but those tamiya models) and there is only one cable from esc to rx that goes to throttle channel In the old days the bec lived in the rx (that's why there is a "batt" plug onto the rx - just that nowadays it's improper named) and the esc had two cables, one for throttle signal and one with battery voltage. Actually it gets really funny as the regulated voltage would go back from rx to the esc, to power it's control circuitry. So you could actually not power up such an esc without an rx. Tamiya somehow assumes you know all that and use an external bec to adapt to a modern rx or you go to the museum and pick up a really old radio kit.

The stock tamiya esc is a reliq from a another epoch when the bec was in the rx - the esc has no bec inside - (and the servo came with the radio kit). Tamiya did not get the "we're in 2015" memo, along with the bearings, oil shocks and lipo memos. Mixing such an esc with a modern radio may result in servo and/or rx smoking. With modern gear, the batt wire has to go via an external bec to the rx, not directly.

Mine has the body shell hand cut. Period. No sanding no nothing. Ugly hand cuts made in a hurry. Wheel arches were terrible, many small visible straight cuts. Wrong cuts too. Had to work an hour cutting and sanding until I got it somehow right. Then I discovered body holes are drilled 4mm offset to one side, so the entire body is not centered with the chassis. Argh. Since I already found untightened screws and front diff is notchy, I guess I have to do a rebuild. Yup, springs are super hard and too short and tires are completely stiff, I guess the rims will break on impact. Tires also need regluing, on the inside I can take them off rim easily. I know I got what I payed for, but this is a team c chassis, I was somehow expecting just a tad more quality.

Always clean the (hot) tip with a wet non-abrasive something (there are special sponges that do not melt, or you can just use a piece of non-synthetic rag/sock/whatever) and it should be shiny and willing to hold solder

The esc at full throttle will not limit anything. The motor will ask, the battery will try to deliver if it can, power flows through esc, any of them will burn if their ratings are exceeded.

Smallest I think is the nano cpx (197mm lengt, 29 grams weight). BNF is actually a plus, you can choose a decent transmitter.

As first CP heli, get a small one with motorized (direct drive) tail which can survive most crashes if flown over tall grass Dependind on spare parts availability, you can look at blade (nanocpx, mcpx bl), walkera (not sure of current models) or align (trex 150) Very important is to use a decent remote with display and profiles, which allows you to set throttle and pitch curves, expo and d/r, and has flight mode switch. And a trainer port, if you want to hook it to the pc and practice in a simulator.

Before getting into RC, NiMH charging recommandation (seen it in some Maxim charging IC datasheet) was between C/2 and C/3, but no lower because deltaV detection would not work Many AA/AAA quick chargers also use C/2-C/3 rates (charging current for AA is fixed at 0.8 .. 1A while AA cells have 2000-2700mAh) In RC people say go 1C; seems to go well with programmable chargers which have pretty reliable end of charge detection. I use un accucel with a temperature sensor hooked, just to be safe (in case of overcharging, the nimh gets really hot, and the temp. limit kicks in)

Maybe one of the new modern touch-screen chargers then? Since kids are so good with smartphones and tablets. Either way, I don't suppose the little one will be home alone while charging lipos, or?

Modern chargers have lipo cell count detection, will not let you do stupid things like charge 2S at 3S voltage, and will not let any cell exceed 4.20V Back then I suppose the charger just put whatever voltage you told it, and if you wanted balancing you had to use an external balancer Huktonfonics: I would only try to use that pack with a lipo alarm hooked to it. The weak cell mai discharge way faster than others and LVC will not kick in fast enough. Even then, it may overheat and cause damage if that cell has high IR

There are cheap low-current non-programmable lipo chargers that charge through balance connector only (but it takes hours). Like, this http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22410__HobbyKing_174_B3AC_Compact_Charger.html As simple as it gets, no buttons at all, unplug after all leds are green

It doesn't hurt to always use a cheap lipo alarm, since it monitors each cell and will beep if any one cell gets low before the others

"Get from local retailer which has a 30% profit margin just for reshipping the box" does also apply for much more expensive equipment

I think sr300 has short range by design, I wouldn't use it in a boat

Do not cut from a 2.4GHz antenna. Usually the actual 2.4GHz antenna is a 31mm long wire, or a 31mm-long exposed end of a shielded coaxial wire. There are some exceptions (I know some spektrum sports receivers that just have longer wires). In any case do not change the antenna length. Keep the receiver and antenna far from esc, motors and power wires.

Would add pretty much to the cost, plus the hassle for the uk middle man, cheapest signed-for shipping from uk would be around GBP 13, and local exchange rate for GBP is pretty high these days I'll wait until banggood has stock and decide then. The longer is passes, the lesser am I tempted to buy one.

I'll wait to see al parts in stock before ordering one... too bad they did not stock before selling, I may change my mind after another 11 days of wait

Yup, turnigy from hobbyking. I use 2x6600 in my 1/8 monster truck

Drifting = lots of practice If you have a drift track nearby, go there and get help in setting your car

IIRC (been some time since I sold the tb02) in each lower arm there is a little grub screw that adjusts droop (how much the arm can go down). You need to make sure they go down the same amount Ideea is, placed on a straight surface, wheels should all touch ground at the same time and chassis should not be leaned either way. Also, shocks should all work the same without binding. The entire thing should be symmetrical left vs right side. If drifting outdoors, try starting with zero camber on all wheels, minimal or zero toe-out in front. You may also need a bit more more power (bigger pinion/smaller spur and/or better battery - I would first try with a better battery)