mrfodds

If there is any play in your starter box then firing up a new engine is gonna be a nightmare. Take the engine out, align the buggy on the box so that the flywheel on your box doesn't hit the chassis then adjust pegs accordingly. You should be able to peg the car up so that it cannot move or has very minimal movement on the box. For a new engine, it's also pretty essential that you warm the engine up before trying to start it. Its just so much easier to start a new engine this way. Also once you've pre-heated the engine dont waste time in getting the engine started particularly if you're outdoors. It doesn't take long for the engine to cool down to ambient temperature especially if you're only using a hairdryer. Much better to use a Sure Start or Comp Heat type preheater as they can get the engine much hotter. I would guess at some point your going to have a piston lock. If that does happen use a large flat head screwdriver on the engine flywheel to release it and return the engine to BDC before trying again.

I've sent you a pm with a link to a very cheap rx that will work with your dx3s.

Are you sure an R5 will even bind with a Spektrum transmitter? Is there anywhere that says its compatible with the DX3S? The OrangeRX GR300 will definitely bind with that transmitter if you're after a cheap alternative to Spektrum receivers.

For tyres use Schumacher mini pins if its dry. Trim a couple of rows off though as they are usually far too aggressive from new. A good set of part worm are usually much better but depends on the type of astro your running on. I don't think the diffs come oiled only greased so clean those out and try a 5 5 3, 5,7,3 or even 7,7,3 setup. It's hard to say what the problem is without actually looking at the car but the standard tyres are pretty naff for astro. Get the right tyre for the surface you're running on and take it from there.

When you rebuild your shocks, put the shock cap on and tighten it about a turn. Then set the rebound and tighten the shock cap fully. To test you have the set it properly, fully compress the shock and let go. The shock should return to whatever rebound you set it at.

Did you put the spring back on the shock?

You'll need to make sure that the receiver and transmitter are compatible with one another and you'll need a bind plug. Have a look on YouTube, there's bound to be a couple of tutorials on there on how to do it.

Is it your first car? Sounds to me like you need to bind the transmitter and receiver together.

^^ why thank you Just a final word for anyone doubting the SWORKZ. At the recent regional series, D812 was first (Graham Alsop), SWORKZ came second (Milan Dragojlovic).

Ahh, sorry thought you made a typo on the model number Just double check the shocks then, I've seen some pictures and they dont look threaded. It's no real biggy but arranging the spacers can be a pain especially if you lose one. Threaded shocks are just less hassle. I suppose the beauty of the RTR version is that if you do break anything you can put the pro kit part on for more strength.

Right, I've had an SWORKZ and it was awesome, way better than anything I had before it. I had the Mugen MBX6 and the SWORKZ has some design features directly from that car but it just seemed to be much smoother and nimbler than the Mugen. For someone starting out I would highly recommend this kit as its easy to drive out of the box and spares are cheap and readily available. Shocks are threaded and they come with 2 sets of springs (black and red). Black is hardest and red is slightly softer. A full set of option springs is less than a tenner which you can't grumble at. The only real issue I had was during the build. Not sure if newer kits are any better but not every screw was in the bag I was working on. All the screws were in the kit but I had to open up other bags to get the screws I needed. Made the build very time consuming. The Losi 8ight EU is tempting, especially at the price its selling at nowadays but I personally found the SWORKZ to have much better steering. Those nuts did need tightening every so often to keep the steering sharp but I just checked it at the beginning of every race meeting and it was set for the day.

Toe out on the front, toe in on the rear

Don't think you've read the thread properly Chris, we're all saying the Fastrax, although cheap, is a bloody good engine.

Fatboyneil, if you can get hold of a 2081 pipe, that should work perfectly. Its the pipe they put in the combo packs. Should be able to pick a used one up for

The A852 is better suited for truggys as it has a lot of bottom end punch. I had one in my buggy and it was a great engine and extremely quick. Don't understand how it seems slower, I found it to be as quick, if not quicker than an Enduro or F850. The acceleration on the A852 really kicks in mid range. Can't comment on the Dragon engine. Not seen it running or heard anything from users of the engine.

Don't write off the Fastrax Enduro. It might not have a big price tag but it has very good performance. Id definitely go for one as a first engine to get into racing. It has some pedigree too, every team that entered the the Endurance masters event held at NDOR in 2011 had to use this engine for 6 hours of solid racing and, as far as I'm aware, not a single one broke. If you want something a bit better then Alpha and Argus are the budget choice engines at the moment. For less than

Agree with Jack but rule out your throttle trim first. If you apply the brakes does it stop over revving? If it does then it's your throttle trim that needs adjusting and not the screws.

Price drop on all unsold items

Excellent, glad you understood. Continue with heating that engine up every time too, it helps a lot during break in and if theory is to be believed, should prolong the life of your engine. I even preheat my engine during hot summer days. It's certainly a long and laborious process but the rewards are worth it and you're gaining valuable experience for the future.

Turn the LSN, the screw that's attached to your slider carb, by 1/8th (or if you imagine a full turn being 60 mins on a clock then turn it by around 5 mins clockwise). Do this until the car idles ok and doesn't cut when you touch the throttle. DO NOT lean the HSN (the screw that sticks out of the engine and that your fuel line goes into). I would imagine that you won't have to lean (turn clockwise) the bottom end (or LSN screw) by anymore than a quarter of a turn or 15mins to get it to idle and not cut out when you touch the throttle. Hope this is better than my previous explanation Engines usually come with a very rich setting for very good reasons but the LSN is usually set far too rich to the point where the car is difficult to start because it's getting flooded with fuel. You can lean the bottom end out enough to get your car to start without knackering the engine. Just don't touch the HSN for the first few tanks, this needs to be adjusted in very small increments during break in and usually not until you've put 3-4 tanks through the engine.

Lean the bottom end by 15mins and that should stop the engine from cutting out as soon as you touch the throttle. It should also start and idle much better on the box.

Turnigy lipos sold

Having a bit of a clear out to make room for new stuff. All prices include postage. Paypal gift or buyer to pay fees (add 4%). If you use the paypal app it works out the fees for you! I have no feedback on MSUK but have a bit over on maxbashing (mrfodds) and you can check my ebay (wadders1) as I have 100% on there. I race at NDOR and Deerdale and would welcome collection from any of their meetings. 1. XRAY T3 2010 EU Rubber Edition. The car comes with various spares including spool, hubs, steering block, drive shafts and the thicker chassis for outdoor use. Car has mainly been used indoors on carpet. Comes with 2 sets of tyres (sorex 28r). There are also 3 shells supplied, the one pictured was a 13bodies pro job. I have 2 others (an orange shell and a blue/white shell) not pictured. All shells have been used and do show signs of use. I can supply the car with speed controller and motor if required. The ESC is a Speed Passion GT V2.1 with a team wave 17.5t motor. The program card is also supplied. I'm pricing the car at

You'll struggle to get those temps on the first few tanks with running rich and with cold weather. More likely to get 140-160 on the first few tanks. 180-225 is more of a final tune temp.