Slugsie

Yup, still coming. I don't have an EC5 to deans, but I do have a 2S lipo that takes removable leads, and a set of deans leads. I'll try and make sure to bring that with me.

I think I'll head down for around 2pm, hopefully see someone else there.

Anyone free tomorrow lunchtimeish? Weather looks to be cold but dry.

I've not seen anything definitive to say that HPI/Castle have done anything to change the ESC. That's not so say they haven't though. I blew my ESC on 2S, so I'm not sure I'd trust it even then.

There is nothing on the transmitter or receiver you can use to adjust the range, it's fixed. However 10-15m is dreadful, I can get mine so far as to barely be able to tell if it's facing towards or away. Unfortunately I know nothing about killer bee failsafes, so can't help on that front.

Simple drop in replacements, no modding required.

The GT3B has no problem with brushless, all my models are brushless, so that isn't your problem. If you have steering but not throttle then you probably need to calibrate the throttle with your ESC. Checks your ESCs manual for how to do that.

I've seen this picture (or variations) a number of times, and never quite understood why it's considered bad. When ladders slip it's always the bottom end moving away from the wall, which can't happen here. The only dangers here are falling off the ladder, and if you try to 'jump' the ladder to move it - both of these are dangerous actions anyway. This is from someone who dislikes heights and ladders to begin with.

Anyone got a link to springs that will fit a TT please?

I've currently got it set with 7000wt oil front and rear, so should I double the front, or halve the rear? I have some 2000wt to hand so it would be easier to halve the rear. Erm.... ??? BTW, I have no setup tools, so setting 1 degree toe out isn't going to happen.

Had a play with my Hyper 10TT yesterday, and it's a lot of fun, but suffers from huge understeer at almost any reasonable speed on both grass and tarmac. Unfortunately it doesn't transition into lift off oversteer so it's very difficult to get it to turn sharply unless you're going very slow. It's like this with both the stock tyres and a set of Proline Trenchers that I had on my Slash that have enough grip to make the Slash traction roll pretty easily. What setup changes should I make to try and make the steering a bit more neutral with maybe a hint of lift off oversteer? This is purely for bashing BTW.

Sorry, not going to have time to get out today which is a shame as it's nice and sunny out.

No worries, at least you've got the XS running. Doubt I can make tomorrow though.

Do you have access to a multimeter? You should check the actual voltage of the AAs, and compare that to what the transmitter thinks they are at. 8 AA (non rechargeable) batteries should show a little over 12v if they're in good condition.

I was there from 1:30 to 3, had fun, but a couple problems with my Summit and HyperTT meant I didn't stick around longer.

Typical, and you just know that he won't turn up until 5:55pm. I'm going to pop down in a half hour or so, so if anyones there I'll see you then.

I haven't had that problem with mine, so it may just be bad luck. But it could also be overtightening of the wheel nuts, as you can snap the pins that way if you're not careful.

I tend to fill mine pretty much full, then expect some to squeeze out when closing up. I've seen some people suggesting a bit less is best. This video shows what looks to be a good method... http://youtu.be/DbOfV5J5Z0k?t=3m12s

Fingers crossed I should be out around midday unless it's chucking down.

Easily, in fact 1 bottle will probably do 10 diffs.

50000cst will be very stiff, and will limit the amount of diffing action the diff can do. You want something more in the 7000 to 10000 range like this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-silicone-oil-7000-cst-60ml-/rc-car-products/366825 that's what I use.

I'm guessing that this is your first IS lens? When in IS mode there is a little motor inside the lens that is moving a bunch of optics around to compensate for any movement of the lens. It's completely normal. Unless of course it still makes such a noise when you turn IS off (should be a switch next to the AF/MF switch). You should always turn IS off when you have the camera mounted on a tripod or other solid mount. As for the display turning off, again normal. The info display usually only stays on for a few seconds after you half press the shutter button.

Yup, after a lot of banging, prying and swearing. Fingers crossed you passed the interview.

Section 6 of the manual suggests it can be used to charge rechargeable NiMh and NiCd. www.absima.com/absima_uploads/funken/cr3p_manual.pdf Although it's written in some pretty bad Chinglish.