Tamiyacowboy

crawlers will use anything from 35t motors to 60t motors , 60t tend to be lathe motors due to the need for torque when your turning items like comunicators and likes for the most torque your looking at a 40t +motor and to be honest for ultimate torque its gonna be a 60t scalers will run 27t and 35t , where pure crawlers will run high 60t lathe motors ( rc lathe motors ) ( integy motors )

its more melting it. extruder , na buddy temp gun and a heat gun to i can heat up a few nylon zipties and dribble them into the cracks. then its a heatgun and a metal knife so i can smooth over and well up, then its a solder iron placed onto copper wires and allowing them heat sink ability of copper to self embed them into the plastics. problem with solder iron plastic welding is the fumes are very very bad for ones health , highly poison when it burns hence just getting it hot enough to melt but not burn and cause heavy fuming. ( some little oik tryed to steal my indicator and bust up my front fairing cowl and all others i looked at are smashed up and missing chunks on flybay, so a repair job is in hand )

Guys melting temp of nylon filaments please ? gotta few repairs need doing on some of my scoot panels and do not wanna be hot solder iron welding the panel parts, would rather have the correct temp so i can melt run nylon into the areas of damage then run over with some wet n dry paper ( also need to add some copper stitching to stop splits/cracks expending more. i was on the side of around 190 -205 degree ( just shy of abs temps and a little above pla ) ?

A. are you adjusting the correct screw , what you think maybe the idle screw could well be the seating screw or even one of the hi/low needles B. remove the idle screw and check its tip is still intact ( sometimes they get worn out or bust to malpractice from newbies)

Overhaulin chip foose and the gang steal unsupecting marks rides ( cars/trucks) and overhaul them, things like old dodge chargers, model A fords , mercury coronets and even vw wagons get foose'd up . even foose became a Mark when the gang stole his own truck and worked in tandem to get it overhauled using only drawings that chip had done. the end product even had the master in tears well worth watching if your a car nut or looking for inspiration

got put on the shelf , i kinda drifted away from rc ( that darn twostroker got all my pennys and gray matter thrown at it) i did try and sell it, but that never got anywhere not even one interested person so it went up on the shelf to gather dust. i been busy with the scooter and now dumping pennys into savings for an old school honda cub / chinese copy cub , will bust the TH out in summer and throw it in the backpack when i head to the beach / greenlanes

Well advice taken guys and i am now saving for a brand new bike a Cub 110 @ £895 registered , meanwhile i gotta stuff a new kickstart on pedro, and have finished sinking money into it. Pedro now sports this setup : naraku 50cc sport cylinder ( its a stock cylinder with a slight port change thats all i can see in differnce from a stock cylinder) naraku 17.5mm carb jetted to 81 ( had to fit this due to wide open lean conditions overheating ) technigas trek (deregulated exhaust (full power) blew a huge hole in the leo vince and couldnt find a replacement on uk soil) brand new rear end pully and clutch system brand new kelvar belt . so its good enough for the young 16yr olds to tear around on and blow it up if they feel the need but its been dropped down in mph speed to now hits 42mph and not a screamer 50mph gone from the bog stock 4hp to around 6.05 hp now. its become a differnet scooter now with plenty of the lights pep and a sweet mid end to top end pull and a nice powerband spread , would only need a hoca 14/41 gear set and a 70cc cylinder to finish it off. i been looking for cubs for a while and all i can find are rusty buckets for upwards a grand , been chatting with a chap in norway and he has been importing these 900 quid cubs and cannot fault them one bit . so i am going on a saving bender and gonna grab myself one. Add my own little twist with swapping the exhaust system for a CT90 exhaust and remove the rear passenger seat for luggage space and strapping down stuff also leave space for me to secure it to my ground anchor and chain lock.

Cat5 here and runs gigabit no problems , routed from downstairs to upstairs , download speeds 75mbps - upload speeds 22mbps on bt infinity stock (upto 20mb)

as above try a higher % fuel with a re-set needle values and a re-tune.\ if that still does not fix this top end running at wide open : check for airleaks around the venturi carb ( mainly where it seats into the engines carb manifold inlet stub) pull the head a check for cylinder damage/head damage. if these are cleared and are fine ........ slip of the clutch bell , examine the clutch shoes and springs , examine rear backplate seal ( if need be seal it with a gasket sealer. ). Engine is an airpump if its gotta leak its not going to run well or its going to not run at all. but it sounds more like a carb problem ( fuel % - needles - airleak )

I5 4590 stock with 4gb 1600 ram on a HD7770OC ati card ( did have a Q6600G0 before the upgrade ) now gotta replace the family pc setup a q6600 running 8gb @800mhz ddr2 ram with a nvida gt620 card , at a guess i think the NAT is failing (72mbps download - barely registers upload speed just hangs ) looking at a I5 6100 stock with 4gb ddr4 mobo bundle for £200

1800mah battery charge at 1.8amps ( will take an hour near on to fully charge ) 3500mah batterys you charge these at 3.5a ( will again take around an hour to fully charge ) trying to charge the 1800mah at 3.5a could cause more problems and kill the battery so stick with 1.8a on this battery. 3500mah batterys will last a little longer than the 1800mah battery when your out driving. these days Nimh battery have come along way and are fairly good memory wise, you can cycle them if you feel the need to, or every say 5 charges run a slow charge ( charge the 35000mah at 1.5amp , and the 1800mah at around 0.9a ( slow charge rate) , you would tend to see racers doing cycle charges on batterys and bashers just throwing them onto fast charge ( less time waiting for that battery to charge = quicker you get out to mess around ). if son is a little to hard on the throttle and you worry about breaking the rc machine, you can use a rubber band and some foam padding to sit behind the throttle trigger. it will stop the trigger maxing out and the son giving the machine its full can of beans right from the start. make rc'ing fun but also teach him finer control of the machine, figure eight driving is ideal as when the car come towards him face on the controls are reversed left becomes right and vice versa it tends to catch them out . for his first couple of days i would take him to the local supermarket carpark where its nice and open and less objects to crash into. then over time places like woodlands and likes give him a feel of differing surfaces some extra grippy like a carpark and others that are very loose like woodland/gravel roads

sweet as buddy , glad the plan fanned out and has now taken her mind away from ted ted.

when i was a kiddie the nearest to a computer was an atari console. the closest thing to a mobile phone was a calculator ( trust me calculator in school you were a rich kid, most of us used abacus) . there was only 4 chanels on the tv and no remote control. holidays were awesome and there was usually snow on the ground meaning you stayed out from dawn to dusk. cops walked the streets and rode cycles , you could always find a bobby on the beat wandering the estate or down the local slip n slides we used to create in the woodland. schools closed only because the heating broke down ( that was fairly often to lol ) or the snow was so deep teachers couldnt get in. Problem these days is tech, every kiddie wants a top end game console and a mobile phone with the latest ipad tablet. they sit infront of 100+chanels of total rubbish on the sky system or tv freeview and dont even have to get up to flip a chanel. in our days you went out and lived life, climbed trees, made dens and just had great fun on rope swings and likes. they wander the streets like little jawa's / sandpeople on the hunt for ailing luke skywalkers or broken down droids.these days even the streets are not safe kids running amock with guns and knifes. cops drive cars and keep warm they very rare walk anywhere, the old days you knew your local booby by namesake and he knew you. you would see them walking the beat in any type of weather. schools still close not due to heating but the uk coming to a stop with 1/2 a mm of snow laying on the ground. ask most kids what the meaning of christmas is the answer is getting gifts. most could not tell you how christmas came about either.

but having a brake means they learn that its there to help them stop. as a kid my bike had a pedal backwards brake, came back to the uk, jumped on a uk cycle and slammed into the back of a large 4x4, one bust leg and a week in hospital. turns out the uk had these things called brake leavers , i mean i tried to pedal backwards and nothing happened HAHAHAHAHHAHA. so yeah i can see the point in adding a brake even if its just a slower and not a full on endo/ rear end locker. learn em young and you spend less time in A&E in the longrun. prezzies, i just worked out its cheaper to go to bank withdraw some cash put it in a card and BAM its done. no moaning no complains no fighting lol. as for myself i grabbed a nice Technigas Trek exhaust and had a little tinker with it ( now produces all the 100% power i paid for) , got a nice little 17.5mm racing carb with a few jets ( running superlean on the stock 12mm carb so the upgrade is highly needed) , ordered in some stacked decals, and started to write out my paint shopping list ( white primer-sparkle silver - electric orange - 2k clearcoat ) , also been looking for some off cut white leather to cut and sew a new seat cover with) , just gotta wait and see if the led running lights get a version 3 upgrade ( removing the strobe light effect) then i will grab soe of them in the boxing day sales etc etc. as its for christmas the exhaust is already fitted and the carbs getting chucked on tomorrow ........... hmmmmm maybe i should get some winter tyres or some knobblies incase it snows

So you own one of the nitro Rc's that have those aircraft like exhausts, dull gray alloy and looks rubbish compared to todays stainless and chromed exhaust pipes. thing is being your nitro is vintage you do not want to have a new type exhaust fitted but would like your old exhaust to have a somewhat bling look. So first off some tools you will need wet and dry sand paper 1000 grit and 2000 grit ( this grit isze means less work overall) a dremmel rotary tool or a like machine a polishing awl with a few polishing felt wheels and a cloth felt wheel ( for finishing buffing ) some of that cheap polishing compound you get with your rotary tool . First off we are going to sand down that pipe with the 1000 grit paper , make sure you keep this paper wet and keep rinsing it and your work in water. we want the paper wet so its slides. if your sanding and the paper starts to stick as your pushing it on surface its telling you it needs some water. you can also add a little fairy liquid to help the paper glide. once you have sanded with the 1000 grit your will swap to the 2000 grit and like above do the same , the idea is to remove the 1000 grit scratches and replace them with the finer 2000 grit scratches wash the work off and let it dry out. Now your going to get that felt wheel in the rotary tool and rub the compound onto the felt, KEEP THE SPEED LOW at around level 4 or around 3000rpm , DO NOT PUSH HARD let the tool and the felt disk do the work you just want to guide the felt wheel over your pipe, to much heat will start to blue the pipe and thats not the idea. so keep a nice low'ish speed and let the felt do the work. the felt pad will turn black over time so when its fully clogged up and black fit a new one and re-apply the compound paste and them start to polish again. your going to notice it starting to shine up very nicely BUT theres a point you need to say " that enough " , you will know this as when your polishing instead of going to a nice shiney finish the shine will dull and go cloudy ( time to stop and now buff ) Next fit your cloth wheel and add your buffing compound, this can be a metal polish like autosol add it to your cloth/cottom/wool wheel and like above a low'ish speed start to buff the pipe to a mirror like shine again do not go mad just get it nice and shiney first. once done you can put some autosol onto a cloth and give it a hand polish to help build up some wax to protect your nice new shiney pipe. Heres a picture of a vintage RC pipe , on the left is the manifold body un-polished and to the right a half finished polished exhaust pipe end, you can see the difference right away from the dull alloy to a nice shiney alloy finish and thats just 20 mins work .

lol price of gas these days you gotta be easy on the throttle. these machines when dyno'd are pushing like 16ps , a derestricted 50cc puts out about a max 4-6hp and these are push 16+hp lol they are rapid as hell for a little 50cc so yep dont need to hammer that throttle hard

Lol i was like OMG when i stumbled onto a few scooter cross vids lol. downloaded to phone and played it to pedro as a warning if it didnt start to work propper this is how it would end up lol lol lol . it aint broke down yet !!! maybe the video did some good. Lowdown. most of these scoots are polini/mallosi 70cc bore kitted running 20+mm carbs and race pipe setups, fitted out with some meaty'ish pitbike style rubber boots, 1/4 throttles fitted and shaved down on everything else ( ie they aint road legal to you younguns ) , top speeds around 50-70mph depending on the gear setup. most will run stock gearing as mx requires more in the power end than pure outright road speed.

one ball joint on the steering bar the wire is solder to. one ball joint on the servo arm and a linkage rod. ball joint link will travel i somewhat a horizontal motion and not a sweeping circular like the servo arm . so we have a ball joint on the servo arm like a standard linakge rod setup. and a ball joint on the steering cable clamp. as the servo swings left and right the angluar motion is more horizontal due to the ball joints beaing able to rotate in the cups . it keeps the steering cables in a somewhat more horizontal travel and still gives the push me pull me on the cables. the weight balance is perfect as seen in the drifts the chassis is holding, its got chassis roll but the weight distro is just perfect , counter correct the drift and the chassis pulls out like it should

nanotechs in 1/10th or smaller and drones , they just wont cut the huge drains a 1/5th -1/8th can/want to pull MAH = runtime the higher the MAH the longer the run time in theory , but real life its not that true with so many variables at play. only way 1/5th will get awesome runtimes is if battery makers can squeeze in 10,000amh into a 4s sized battery . then running 2x @10,000 would give you 20,000mah (20amps) you would see about 4 mins added runtime. and then its the driver to mashing that throttle will see mah fall away quick but tickle that throttle and you consume less mah and voltage to.

well vinyl came today, this scrap floor runner panel was laid down without heat in the Matte chrome Orange car wrap vinyl its Pedro the scooters new colour as i have fallen in love with this shade of burnt copper What do you think guys , its my first ever lay and i did it without no heatgun/hairdryer. i got some creasing but nowt that heat will not solve.

well i grabbed a roll of Matte Chrome orange 1ft x 5ft it was like 9 quid for that bit but its enough to do a couple of test panels ( the old side running panels i had to replace that were missing lugs and screw wells) going to borrow the nieces hairdryer so i can get heat into the film and help it contour a bit rather than stretch it like crazy ending up with fading metalic colour. if it works out i will grab a couple - three rolls of 2ft x 5ft should give me enough to skin the front headlamp panel and the floor side runners and the rear side panel and rear end. priced it to under a £100 for the whole bike. Then its re-registering the new colour change via dvla ( laws changed and now you have to tell them about colour change even though its not a perma colour change and can be removed) Plastic dip was just out of the question. i would still have to take all plastics off rub em down and primer coat them, then i would have to get a plastic dip chameleon after spray. cost would be close to a propper candy pearl job and same amount of prep work ( plus i dont have a booth or heaters, and you just cannot paint in the winter without big problems in drying time and possible moisture problems in paint layers)

yeah i have air scoops , sunken light wells . and a front end scoop fender that has adverse compound curving , think sportsbike fairings on the front behind the wheel, where you have main colour behind wheel that then flows to under the bike around the fairing so goes from an inside curve to a hard outside compound curve. air scoops that are split with a vane, and a front lamp well thats the same split with a central vane. the most easy parts would be the side running board panels , but a price quote of £300 quid and they want me to remove panels and is not even a metalic colour change at £300 thats just a joke i thought, its a scooter for christ sake lol. Paint wise it would be around the same inc labour spray costs and if clever could mask and spray bike without removing panels ( well just the front wheel well fender scoop)