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norcoforever

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Everything posted by norcoforever

  1. I've never personally driven an scx10 but seen plenty run and with the right tyres the gelande wouldn't be a million miles behind. The main limitation is the scale body which is rather heavy. I think if you want scale you have to accept it won't be as capable as an out and out crawler if that makes sense
  2. The mip shaft just wasn't quite long enough on the rear and I felt it was at risk of breaking so this came today and is a fantastic fit
  3. I'm in the fortunate position to own both at the same time. The trx4 as standard is not a scale and it isn't easy to get a land rover body and make it look scale. The gelande is by very definition absolutely a scaler but will never be as capable either.
  4. Tbf if it was still a land rover it would have been broken when he came to see it ;P In all seriousness I love my land rovers but the Cherokee fitted a price lol there is a D90 project on going as we speak
  5. The rear is a slight compromise as the normal rear one is too long and the front seems slightly short I do have a punisher shaft on the way that I may fit to the rear
  6. Enough paint and supplies to keep me busy for a while
  7. Sounds like you have air in them and possibly a leak. The o rings on Baja shocks aren't the best and people often replace them with darksoul ones There is a really good guide to bleeding them in the manual and it takes a few tries but it does work
  8. Depending on how they work I'm guessing it just cuts the current if it was in line just on the lead to the rear servo I think the other side of the y lead would be unaffected
  9. If you used a y cable meaning that servos at each end would to the opposite to each other due to direct could you then use a simple switch in line with the rear servo that in essence allows you to turn power to it on and off? The only issue I see is that it would remain it whatever position it was left when it is turned off. I mean this type of switch 222872097263 (eBay item number)
  10. You can download the full manual for the 5bss from the hpi website this is a step by step build manual and if you follow it there isn't anything you shouldn't be able to fix
  11. Cheers for the heads up on these I only use 2s picked up two for £35 posted!
  12. I would avoid the savox jumbos I've had both 0236 and 0235 die for no apparent reason in the past. The hitecs seem to be more than proving themselves however
  13. I ran irc big bores with a team chase cage with no rubbing but I used a turtle rear shock brace. Is suspect it is your brace causing the issue forcing the shocks further out Also it looks like the shocks should fit the other side of the brace
  14. Do you have any pics of your axles and any links buddy? Any fitment issues?
  15. Cheers buddy it's only my second hardbody so I'm defo still learning
  16. I'm really happy with how the body has turned out. Some of the parts just didn't fit properly e.g. the front and rear windows but I've done the best with what I've got. I've routed the wiring so that even with everything plugged in I can take the body On and off. Just waiting on my mip drive shafts, new servo and alloy servo horn and then for now I believe the trx4 is done
  17. The main part of Cherokee body is finished. I was hoping to go bunperless but it doesn't look right would you do the bumpers to mount to the body silver or black?
  18. I had my rc4wd gelande out in the snow earlier, it's running a hobbywing 1080 esc and rc4wd 35t motor and it just lacked punch I had neither torque nor wheel speed do you guys have any suggestion?
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