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willb

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Everything posted by willb

  1. They are these - https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/pro-line-interco-tsl-sx-super-swamper-sc-2.2-3.0-tyres-mounted-407609
  2. Are the tyres glued to the rims? I can't remember how they come on the TRX-4...
  3. I'm after a pair of Traxxas Canyon tyres from the TRX-4. Ideally with the foams too.
  4. Corally are supposed to be sorting the pivot ball issue I've just seen on the FB page. I checked with Per too and he has also confirmed it. Hopefully only a temporary blip in durability. Best value race truggy has to be the Associated, roughly £480ish if you shop around. It's tough too! You could drop the electrics from the Kronos straight into it.
  5. J.K and I race at HNMC and I've just joined Stotfold. First race coming up next weekend! The Laydown is a great car however if you're just starting out in 2WD, there will be a new replacement for the Laydown in the very near future. I'd advise buying one second hand though as they can be had for a great price. I ran one for 2 years before swapping to an SWORKz S12-2 - awesome car and very easy to drive.
  6. I'm assuming you're launching these trucks pretty high? Race trucks are tough and the parts are arguably better quality but will anything stand being launched high time and time again? A few I know race the Mugen truggy and it's tough, handles like a dream on a track. I have an XTR, haven't launched it too high yet but haven't really broken anything apart from a wing! I've heard about the pivot balls popping out, I have had that happen following a cartwheel!
  7. Good to hear. You want approximately 1 to 1.5 seconds of slip from a full throttle standing start. It's what we tend to run on astro anyway, anything less and the car can become very snappy and unsettled when exiting corners. You have an older model but still a race buggy so I can imagine it'll out drive most RTR cars. For a grass setup, it's very hit and miss due to the lovely British weather and how long the grass is. I don't race 4WD or on grass but I'd suggest if you're understeering a bit, raise the ride height, 21-23mm and soften the suspension (probably thinner oil, 400WT front and 300WT rear). This will generate a bit more corner grip by allowing the car to rotate more through a bend. The rest is up to you and how you want the car to drive. Enjoy
  8. Best thing you can do is to download the manual online (see link below). That'll give you the screw sizes you need and then you can buy the size screws you need on eBay. Personally, I'd strip it down and do a full nut and screw rebuild on it. You may find it hard getting ZX-5 parts now, maybe some ZX-6 or ZX-7 will fit? I'm not too clued up on Kyosho 1/10 buggies. Either way, try MB Models or PBM Racing. Both stock Kyosho. Are you planning on racing it? Manual and setup sheets here - https://site.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/SetupSheetsKyoshoLazerZX5FS.html
  9. All sorted. Check out the first post of this tread 🙂
  10. See the first post of this threat. Hoping the pictures are still there (not checked at time of replying). I'm back and forth bashing at Thetford. Happy to have a meet up there soon Edit: No they're not. I'll update with some new pictures over the weekend. But as Tony said, Two Mile Bottom Rugby Club is where you're aiming for and you'll see somewhere to park opposite close to the level crossing.
  11. Had a few a few over the years. Can't fault them for the price. They're a lot better than they used to be some years ago when HPI still had a petrol range. If your budget can stretch to the 002 version then go for it. Either will be a blast and you'll still sink loads more cash into them regardless which you buy!
  12. Look on Shapeways. I've got a few bits for my Gladiator on there.
  13. Race spec buggies such as the Associated B74.1, Schumacher L1 Evo and so on will be best suited for lots of power. Most people run at least a 6.5T in them with plenty of boost and turbo enabled on the ESC too. Where I race run the popular buggies are the Schumacher or Yokomo in 4WD and with 5.5T motors. Insanely fast!
  14. I've used these for an hour or so before removing. They came with my SCX10III Gladiator which is less than a month old (just so you know how new the tyres are). These are the R35 compound which is surprisingly soft and sticky, good crawling ability. The foams are not shown but they are the dark grey stock Axial foams. The tyres are in great shape as you can see. I did make very small 2mm diameter holes in each tyre to let moisture out (I usually crawl in damp places) - the holes are invisible but does allow the tyre to compress better. Asking £38 posted.
  15. What tracks are you going to run at? I run Cactus mainly in yellow compound when dry, Stagger Ribs in yellow on the front. The Laydown has a lot of front bite so I find the Stagger Ribs help soften it. In any other condition, Cut Staggers and Mini Pin 2s in silver. Setup is key for conditions but you’ll learn all that.
  16. I started stripping the electrics out of my V1 yesterday. The XTR is a thing of beauty. I think I’ll get a bash bar before letting it loose at 30ft skywards! Want to protect it as best I can. I’m pleased to say the diffs and shocks are filled from the box, no idea what weights though...?!
  17. I'm still loving my V1 Kronos, got the XTR on order now too
  18. I'm booked in for both days
  19. willb

    WTD: TRX-4 Shocks

    Still looking for another 6 shocks!
  20. willb

    WTD: TRX-4 Shocks

    I'm after a complete set of TRX-4 shocks. Has anyone got a set? Cheers
  21. Nice videos! Out of interest, how long are you getting run time wise with your Sonicwake? I'm not seeing 10 minutes with 5000mAh LiPos which is surprising. It's a big boat I guess! I also had initial overheating issues, after some extensive research, how the connectors are soldered is paramount within the Sonicwake. I'm running XT90s, I had to strip almost too much wire, force each into the connector so it crinks slightly and solder that in place. Basically, cram as much wire in as you can and fill with plenty of solder. Took a while but it stopped all my overheating issues even after running 5 different pairs of LiPos one after the other. Just wish I got longer run times! I'm toying with the idea of swapping out the stock ESC for the Hobbywing Seaking 180A in the coming days.
  22. Email them, their customer service is very good so I'm sure they will sort you out. Join the FB group too, loads of really helpful people.
  23. Did you get the Losi in the end? I've just finished my MP10e. Superb kit to build. Just need the world to fix itself and I'll get it round the track!
  24. You'll love it once you get it out for a thrashing. Still enjoying mine although I suffered with overheating on 4S the other day. Going to drop the gearing slightly and see if that helps.
  25. Question on the V2 parts. I’ve decided to leave the stock arms on, may as well get some use from them. When fitting the new wing mount, do you need new longer screws to mount to the shock tower? The stock screws are now too short unless I fitted it wrong. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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