ajlovering

Hi You will have to increase the pinion on the clutch bell as you wont be able to engage the teeth of the gears. The best would be to use a 32/32 pinion spur to get the distance to enable the gears to engage. The quoted BHP for that engine is way off. A decent .28 engine will give about 1.2 hp if you are lucky Cheers

After looking at the D drive I realized he needs a variable input to get it to work. At best its just a torque multiplyer. I built a CVT for my 1/8 car. The belt had so much drag it sapped all the power. I'm using the push plate from it to make a mutliplate clutch for my 16.5cc marine engine

How many gears? Try infinite

2 speeds is OK for 100 mph Cheers

92.32mph for the electric bike and 92.51mph for the IC Close!

What you need is the the suspension not to travel but have a large air gap underneath. Take the shocks off and then the ball ends and put fuel tube over the shock shafts to stop to make them really stiff. Alternatively replace the shocks with tie rods. You will have enough give in the tyres Cheers

Take the piston and liner out of the engine. Push the piston up into the liner. The piston should get tight about halfway up and stop about 5mm from the top. If it is loose up to about 3mm from the top and then reaches the top the engine is had it. A piston and liner is the same price as an engine so best to throw it away and get another one Cheers Tony

Use MOD 1 gears

Like this?

Get a clutch bell with a threaded end. You can add any gear you want then

Dave This is the class definition for the IC Open Wheel IC Open Wheel Vehicles are classified open wheel if they meet the following criteria · Any Buggy, Truck or Truggy based kit · Single IC engine up to 0.45 Cu in or 7.5cc · Body shell must not cover the wheels · Wheel diameter to be min 90mm · Stock kit chassis with commercial available upgrades

Looking at the carnage I would go for the IC open wheel class. I wouldnt bother with the Go engine. Get something decent to put in like a novarossi .28 or similar

The run up at Shakespeare isnt great. you have about 400m max to the speed traps. If you are looking to go faster we have a practice event at Llanbedr in April and in September. this is 1.3 miles of super smooth tarmac. The weather normally comes into play and its a closed airfield so lots of red tape Cheers

Hi Dave I would consider a 2nd hand 1/10 nitro car and fit a 0.18 OS engine. That should get you heading in the right direction Engine mods are allowed. I have tried almost everything to modify engine and found some things that work and a lot of stuff that doesn't The thrust class doesn't have an official sub class. Pulse jets are really cool but the actual power compared to the weight is terrible. If you want to go fast there are plenty of easier alternatives. I have a B300F turbine I'm selling. 72lbs of thrust if your interested. Check the projects section of the Fast-RC forum for the Dash Hound car. Also check put Dale Cotes solid fuel rocket car. I have predicted he will win the outright speed for 2016 with something in the region of 230mph. Hes in the USA so has restrictions on engine sizes. In the UK there isn't those restrictions :-) Cheers

I'll take a couple of sets. If I dont use them somebody at the speed event will take them off me Cheers

Hi Dave. I'm in this forum also. There are a few things to consider. If you are looking at IC then I would start with a 1/10th or 1/8th on road car and just up the gearing. People that have done this in the past can get up to just over 100mph but over that seems to be a challenge. Radio range is an issue if you are trying for high speeds with IC. The Futaba system is pretty good with range but if you want to have max range try the Immersion 459mhz system. If you need any specific info let me know Cheers

Hi Just to let you know there are 2 bike classes for the ROSSA world RC speed championships. Electric and IC. We havent seen a bike at the event for a while and would love to see them again Cheers

The usable run up length would be about 600m assuming you used the total length of the dragstrip before the speed traps. The problem is the surface. Even with the surface dressing we havent found a way to stop the cars slipping all over the place. I managed 108mph with my nitro there but will be using Llanbedr to improve on that. Dont hold your breath with Novarossi. The dims of the case are the same as the 35PLUS21. IMO the 7 port 35PLUS21 is the best engine they made Cheers

Good to see some interest in Nitro cars. The big block class is max 0.45 now or 7.5cc so you will need a light car if you are going to use a .21 engine. You will also need to have a 2 or 3 speed gearbox to be able to get it off the line at the high gearing required for fast speeds. I'm looking forward to seeing a decent nitro car at the event Cheers

Like these?

Have I approved you? I think I have approved everybody. Let me know if not

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1641915416068313/ Cheers

Or take the shock off.......

...as if by magic.... Firstly the shape. You want the centre of pressure behind the centre of gravity. Think of a dart. Weight at the front and all the drag at the back. Try throwing it backwards and thats what happens to your car if you get them the wrong way around. To get the drag further back most people add a wing. This adds drag to the back and stabilises the car. The car can be unstable in both the horizontal and vertical planes so if the pressure is forward the car will flip or spin. Both are symptoms of drag pressure too far forward. A simple cure is just tape a paper streamer to the car at the back and it will stop flipping. A cut off body at he back also add huge drag So if you think about the drag for a second it acts on the centre of gravity. If its close to the CofG then you need a large drag to get the same moment of drag. Further away you can have less drag and get the same moment. Adding a wing at he back will work but better is to extend the body far behind the rear wheels and add a small wing. This does 2 things it smooths the airflow over the rear so when the air that is separated from the front moving forward rejoins at the back less turbulence is created and less drag. Secondly a small wing far from the CofG will stabilise the car better than a large wing close to the CofG with less drag so the car can go faster. You also want to have a pointed front to ensure the air is separated without causing a pressure wave. A large angle will cause a wave or pressure build up a the front and de stabilise the car and cause more drag. So to sum up. Make the body twice as long as the car with the rear wheels around the middle of the body. This isnt rocket science as it was what made the Bluebird very fast in 1929 So next is how to make it. I have used all sorts of material for the plug but best is polyurethane foam. Get the high density stuff if you can afford it. You can buy the liquid also and pour it into an existing body to make a copy then reshape the body. Once the shape is near enough you need to cover it all with filler and sand it down then cover with smoothing material such as Pattern Coat http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/pattern-making/composite-pattern-coat-primer.html. The primer is good enough, you dont need the high gloss. Look at all the videos online on how to make a 2 piece mold if its required. I usually design the bodies to come out in one piece If you need any furthur assistance drop me a PM or a mail or give me a call Best of luck

The 8O8 class was won in 2015 with a speed of 153.22 mph. I am expecting the speed for 2016 to be over 160 mph and may even pass 170 mph No pressure!