grumpygramps

Steve- if you want some savage diff internals, I've got a complete set that's brand new, which I stripped out of my truck before upgrading them with hardened ones. They're yours for a couple of quid and the cost of postage (call it a fiver altogether) if that helps? Should work out alot cheaper than from the shops.

You're not wrong about HPI's shell's.. How's the XS then?

Looks sweet! Anyone on here got an XS yet..?

I don't think that's really the case, it is easy pickings for a laugh though... Asking advice is one thing, and it's the main thing that brought most of us here I think, but asking for material goods from complete strangers is a bit out of place to be honest.

Back up to the top! Will think about sensible offers, please make them sensible though

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-advanced-fuel-filter-grey-/rc-car-products/39777

I set the camber on my savage wheels at about 5 degrees on the rears and 1 degree on the fronts. Toe-in 2 degrees on the rear and out 2 degrees on the fronts. That should give you best handling and stability, but tbh, on an MT tire choice and wheel offset are more crucial. You'll no doubt find that the Maximizer/Zombie combo will give you more stability and grip, stick to the stock's for on-road or jumping though, as they're pretty tough and will stand both much better than the others.

They're Maximizer beadlock wheels, tires might be Losi but I'm not sure... I ran a fuel filter with my old savage and still got mid-tank lean.. Bit of a funny one that! EDIT- They're Losi Zombie 320's EDIT MK2!- Great price, truck looks pretty much brand new, plus all of the extra's, nice one!!

Looks pretty awesome I reckon (not that I'd ever buy it...), fair price too really. Apart from the cost of the turbine, all that FG alloy isn't cheap either, must be about £1750+ wrapped up in that alone.

You want 25C minimum with that combo I believe, 30-40C would be better though.

BUMP! Back for sale as the buyer has not been in contact as promised or returned PM's...

If you pause the vid at around 11 seconds through as it goes up high over the second jump, you can see under the chassis quite well.... Looks like TVP's to me, but I have to admit I don't know exactly what a Baja chassis looks like from underneath.

Thanks Matt. I remember seeing them a couple of years back and thinking they were nice cars for the £££'s, will check out the spares availability. At the mo the HPI is looking fave though, as spares are all over the place and the car is only £150 in some places. Thanks for the advice Chris. I'll have a good look at the Xray site and the set-up advice, that will no doubt be very helpful. I checked out the Ansmann, looks like it might be sturdy and the kit is so cheap it would make sense, being that I'm going to be putting my own radio gear and motor in.. Doesn't seem to be ballraced though, and it looks UGLY!! I know that shouldn't be a problem, you can put a new shell on and hide the chassis underneath it, but I'm not sure I would want to live with it, all the same.. Nice TC6 btw, funny seeing it with the Maverick electronics in there though, they any good..?

I've got a gas one, which is fantastic! Heats up in no time, you can use it where there's no leccy and I coudn't live without one now. This is what I use- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRODA-PRO-SOLDERPRO-120-BUTANE-GAS-FUEL-SOLDERING-IRON-/180727277885?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2a142f693d there's loads of other tips you can get for them too, and one of the larger flat toped ones is great for RC connections.

Cheers Matt, I'll check them out I don't think that the HPI is a "real tub chassis", but it has been available in the UK as a RTR package, so will qualify in the class according to the rulebook.. I guess anyway!

I don't think they did... CML are TM's UK distributor, and there's no sign of them on their website. Shame really, as they looked like they might've been pretty decent trucks, and TM's stuff in the past has always been very solid.

Thanks, yep, that's what I thought. Any idea if the "Sport Tuned" Tamiya motor is worth paying double over what the silver can one is..? Cheers, Lawrence.

OK, done a bit of looking about.. Maybe an HPI Sprint 2 Sport and buy one of the Tamiya motors..? Either that or a Carisma M40s or Tamiya TT-01 E, but they don't look anywhere near as good as the HPI. Any ideas?

I've decided to give 1/10 electric circuit racing a proper go at my local club, starting in the RTR T/C class, which shouldn't be too expensive or too fast for me to keep up with! I'm going to buy something off the shelf and just get on with it, maybe buy some sets of wheels/tyres, but thats it, no messing about with all the hop-up stuff, so it's got to be as good as pos right from the start. The rules are as follow- Any car with a tub or monocoque chassis, or which has been available in the UK as a Ready to Run package. Race weight will be a miniumum of 1500g including transponder. Any replacement ESC must have a UK list price of £40 or less. (Allows waterproof ESCs such as the Mtroniks RV15.) Upgrades to the car CAN be... Ball races PLASTIC Oil damped shocks. Different spring rates Drive shafts/CVDs/propshafts Adjustable tie rods Replacement/alloy steering blocks and c-hubs. spur gear and pinions Servo and servo saver [*]Upgrades to your car may NOT be Carbon Titanium [*]Any rubber tyre (No foam tyres) [*]Any 190mm bodyshell [*]Lipo, NiMh or NiCad batteries, with a nominal voltage of no more than 7.4V [*]Minimum weight limit of 1500g, with transponder. [*]Motors for the electric RTR class. 53689 Tamiya 540-J Kit supplied Johnson Motor, or any other similar sealed can motor, such as the Mardave G2 53068 Tamiya RS540 Sport Tuned Anyone got any suggestions what might be best, within those rules? I really don't have a clue... Many thanks in advance, Lawrence

Brilliant!! :lol: Guess it must be time to either do very irresponsible jumping/crashing with it to test out just how strong the upgrades are, stick a much bigger engine in, or sit back and feel like you've actually got one over on an R/C for a change!

Hi Dejan, Any chance you could let me know how much, as a fraction, the CF sheet (that you would use for the servo/motor plates) weighs compared to the 3mm alloy sheet please. Just trying to do some maths! Thanks, Lawrence.

Great looking project, love the IRC chassis and the Muggy is always going to be a winner! I'm not sure about that though.. The Turnigy is only good with 4s and rated at 1775W max output, where the Leopard is happy with 6s and rated at 2600W, the wires come out of a different place and the end bells are different as well. For the price it looks pretty good though, and on 4s it should be great,

Me too... I've been comparing the weight of various chassis bits today on some scales, reckon I could lose nearly 500g if I went fully CF. I want to see how other peoples CF bits do when they get smacked about first though!

I've never actually noticed anyone taking the **** since I got back into RC a few years back, when I was in my early 30s, and most of the time I go out it's on my own... The usual drag is when people moan about the noise or they're worried about you hitting their kid or dog! Mostly people I come accross are either not bothered or really interested though, which can be equally as annoying as them complaining, especially if they've never driven one before and want a go at putting your precious machine over a ridiculous jump at high speed that's bound to end in tears..

If you float the cursor around in the post, the Edit feature should become highlighted (just next to the Multiquote box)... If not there's something wrong!