horatio

Thank you! Yep - I think they look awesome. Hopefully they'll perform as good as they look.

Alright, so I put my wheels together today and 'dressed' the tyres. The stock tyres on the Kronos XTR weigh 315g, vs the belted JetKo Tyres at 441g - that's a 28.5% heavier wheel/ tyre combo folks. But being belted means better stability, predictability, more contact patch and thus more traction on tarmac. Hopefully all these benefits will outweigh the additional rotating mass. A really neat idea are the removable hexes. Note the castellated shape here with hex still being tightened. 8 x M3 bolts hold the hexes in place and it's definitely worth doing these by hand. In theory you can remove the hex and change to a different size if you swap, say, from a Corally to a Traxass. It's not easy to tell how tight to take them, as the amount of torque required for the bolts to pass through the wheel feels just the same as it does when it enters into the hexes. Do the tightening order properly, tightening opposing bolts all the way round until it looks like this. There's absolutely no need to over-do the torque on these, else the threads will strip out in the hexes and your wheels will be parting company from your truck very soon! The tyres come with nifty, zip lock bags - so easy tiger - no need to cut them like I started to do - they're actually pretty handy to store your stock tyres. Included are some stickers - one pair of tyres had a set of JetKo Cyotes, which is definitely going on the body. The other pair had 'top best tyre' stickers - which I'm sure is quaint English but whatever - I'm preferring the coyotes! For Kronos and Kraton etc JetKo recommended the 1/2" offset wheels. They clear everything fine, but the truck is definitely wider now by about an inch. This is likely a good thing if you want to try some speed runs on-road. These road tyres are marginally smaller diameter, so this will lower the roll-out slightly, effectively lowering the gearing. Fitted, they look absolutely bang on. Unlike some smaller scale trucks, the proportions are just right with these for 1:8th. These tyres are described as medium soft (green) compound. The rubber is sticky at room temperature and likely be even stickier when running. I have absolutely no doubt that these are going to grip like hell on smooth, hard surfaces. On dirty, loose or dusty areas, these tyres will just pick it all up like blutac and need to be scrubbed to get the traction back up again - just like full-size tyres. Obviously, I can't wait to try them out! I'll head down the local showground while it's quiet. I'm sure that I'll break my personal speed record with these fitted. The overall quality seems excellent. The fit and finish of the wheels, tyres and hexes are without fault. My Dusty Motors shroud looks just like the latest truggy bodies! Better in fact... 🤣 I haven't fitted the sock shocks yet, which came supplied with the shroud, but I'll give them a go. I use them on my Baja 5B SS and they definitely help prolong the life of the seals and shafts etc. I'm very pleased with the items, all of which arrived the next day from Modelsport via DPD - free postage! So, shout out to Modelsport. Couldn't have done it quicker or cheaper.

So far, I'm pleased with the quality and feel of the rubber. Seems sticky! Quite heavy though....

Thanks for the tip! I wonder if my missus would notice if a black pair went missing..... 🤣 Well, I actually pulled the trigger on a chassis shroud by Dusty Motors. It came with some shock socks as well, so I thought I'd give them a go. With the tyres, it got me into the free postage zone, so happy days.

So, let's give these a go.

I had a Tenth Technology Predator in the early 00's and it was fair to say it was very quick. Like - it would out accelerate anything and had such a low centre of gravity, go around corners faster than any other buggy. In fact I'm pretty certain that on smooth astro or carpet tracks, the Predator of yester-year would beat anything there currently is on the market today. Sadly, the Pred had some issues. One of them was how fragile it was. If you clipped a track marking, or if another racer muscled you with a typical Yokomo or Losi - your Pred would be left strewn all over the track. Likewise, if you jumped too aggressively or didn't set your slipper clutch up right, you'd shed teeth off your input and crown gear inside the front/rear transmissions. Taking out the diffs and replacing the said gears was part of normal Pred ownership. But, here was the deal breaker for me - the cases screwed into the composite tub. Sooo, when these holes stripped, which they inevitably did, you either had to modify the chassis and cases with new countersunk bolts and lock nuts - or have a supply of (very expensive) tub chassis. Not a problem if you were sponsored by Tenth Technology, but prohibitively expensive if you were a privateer. It was a no compromise car. It was super fast, but compared to the ultra tough cars you see today, the Predator was a proper fussy, high maintenance diva of a car. Lots of fun though.

So - Lexan/polycarbonate cover, or Dusty Motors shroud? 😁 Anyone got any thoughts on this? On my nitro models, I tend not to need them. On my 1/10th buggy racing days, I used to use lexan covers on my Cat 3000 to help reduce the amount of wet clippings clogging belts.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to do the same or similar because I'm fairly certain the ESC will fry itself otherwise!

I gave the XTR a good blast around on grass today. The surface was bumpy with natural mounds. Whilst I grabbed some air, I didn't do anything extreme. My truck had a tendency to flip over under braking, so I had a few tumbles whilst I got to grips with the brakes on grass. I was very impressed with the truck's ability to carry speed through bumpy sections and how smooth and quiet it was. Obviously, on 6S it's bonkers, but it's amazing how this machine puts power down on grass and floats over bumps that give 1/5th scakes something to think about. It really deserves to be raced in a 6S truck class. My Corally motor was hot by the end of a 15 minute run, but with 22% battery left, I was impressed with how much juice was left. Grass clippings in the ESC are a problem. I'll have to get a over chassis protector or something. POS mud guards really helped protect the rear shocks.

Snap! I'm a racer from yesteryear and the same sort of age as you. Roughly. I really enjoy driving this thing and trying super hard not to flip it into a million cartwheels! Doing stuff like this keeps the reflexes good, don't you worry. 👍 Scuffing the wing and body makes me wince, so I'm super careful with the amount of throttle I use. Despite this, it still wheelies and does mental stuff. I'm not sure that you're supposed to feel like a passenger when driving an RC car! 😂 The motor was more than hand hot when I finished my run, so it was quite a blast - considering it was only about 6°C outside today. Nothing broke though, despite hopping off curbs, lawns and pavements. I noticed a couple of screws needed tightening up and threadlocking. My 6S battery needed a good balance afterwards - seems like 3 of the cells were lower voltage than the rest. Charging my 4500 Gens Ace takes my '100 watt' charger about 1.5hrs - it's nowhere near a 1c charge rate. I'm lucky if it gets to 2.5A during the charge, so I should probably pick up a dc charger and walloping power supply. My Q200 Sky RC charger is really only good for charging my 4S & 6S 5" drone batteries. When the weather improves, I'll buy some more 6S packs and another 5L fuel for my XT8 and mix things up a bit. But for pure, white knuckle thrills - I agree the XTR is where it's at.

A Wheelie bar is a good idea. It takes very little provocation for the Kronos to flip onto it's lid. I've just ragged mine around on 6S. It's mental. I'm running on a gravel over tarmac surface. Putting the power down sometimes equals the truck squatting down and smoke coming off the tyres. Other times, the car diffs out at the front, with one tyre ballooning. Other times, you 'feel' the cars tyres ballooning all round and the squirming with reduced tyre contact patch. Or diving into a corner with enough weight transfer onto the front to lift the inner rear wheel. Alternatively, diving into a corner with comedy understeer. You never quite know what's about to happen. It's bonkers and unpredictable. On 4S with tyres that aren't ballooning, I reckon the car must be fairly neutral. I'm just enjoying blaring it around without tipping or crashing it. My next purchase will be a small GPS unit to see how fast my near misses are! 🤣

Yeah, I can see the problem there.... your diff gasket is broken... 😂 But seriously, the technical term for this occurrence is........FUBAR. 🤣 I hope the XTR diffs are stronger. I've yet to give mine more than 1 x 6S pack through it. Fingers crossed. 🤞 These brushless motors are putting >4hp through the drive train, so everything needs to be hardened. Composite diffs like the ones used on Nitro Truggies/Buggies simply aren't up to the job unless you are super smooth on the throttle. Which defeats the object when you buy a basher.... Let us know what diffs you end up with! Good luck 👍

Bargain for sure!!

Is it just me - or does anybody else here find the corally website frustrating? I've been searching the site this evening and I've broken 2 perfectly good monitors already...... 🤣

£500 plus for the 2022 version - most buyers would be happy to wait til the price settles. Getting one before everyone else? More ££.

They typically sell for around £320 from UK sellers. On black Friday, they were down to £299.

I don't find my nitro machines a problem to keep indoors (bar the usual issues with the missus wanting to bin them when I'm not looking) provided they're kept clean and never left with fuel in them after using. No smell no mess. The Baja on the other hand - much as I love it - always smells of a 2 stroke MX bike (I use fully synthetic racing 2 stroke oil). Or a strimmer - if you want to trigger all the diehard petrol heads! 😂

Thank you! Yes, they are quite sizeable when you compare them to Sand Scorcher! And there lies the problem for people wanting to display them in between blasting them around. Most shelves are waaay too small, so they end up being dumped in the shed over winter. It's much better having shelves for them and my missus is definitely happier with this arrangement too. There's even space for a couple more..... 😜 The shelves are Ivar shelving units from IKEA. They're available in various configurations and these were spot on for everything I currently own except for my Baja 5B SS - that has to live in the Garage.

Well it's been a while and II suppose everyone is catching up with mundanity after festivities. After all the nonsense with Omi-cold, we have changed the use of a bedroom into an office / model display area. My wife is happy with these developments, as she no longer has to endure my teams calls. New storage is perfect for displaying RC cars indoors - upto 1:6th scale. So, just need to sort out new curtains and lampshade and we're sorted.

I'm a bit late to the party, but pulled the trigger on an XTR in November. I detailed my build on another forum but have recently imported that thread here. The Kronos is a high value platform from what I gather and the XTR merely adds some 7075 alloy and some other bling to the mix. Torox/Kuron 825 ESC/Motor combo is surprisingly potent when compared to other companies offerings. Whilst based on a Max 8 ESC, the TC branded stuff certainly rips. Pillow Balls had a tendancy to pull out of the hub's and/or wishbones with some people, though not all. New revised hubs were put into production, though new Kronos still have the original items. That being said, Corally ship the revised items gratis to new owners with a valid receipt. These trucks are exactly what the market needs. Some of the videos on YouTube are laughable. People need to maintain their critical thinking and understand what motivates people to do what they do. I'm very particular with my RC's and the XTR hasn't disappointed in any way. I've been very open and honest with my appraisal, as you can read here: Kronos XTR Build My last major build was a Team Xray XT8, the quality of which is often considered a bench mark. Yet the XTR has still impressed me in numerous ways. I think it's a great rig. 👍

It's information like this that I'll need. Down the line I was contemplating getting a bigger Motor for better torque and lower temps, but if the weight negatively affects the overall handling of the car, it's probably not going to be an upgrade. More like an expensive trial and error. If I did go down that route, I wasn't happy with hacking the side guards where they mount. The Basherqueen riser kit seems like a trick solution but again - it raises the CoG.

You can, but it's quite a faff. I wanted to set the voltage for the servo. It only took me a week......😜

Thanks for joining the thread! I'm trying to edit the title of this thread to Shogun,/Kronos/XTR. Not entirely sure how to do it. [edit - thread title now changed] My buying an XTR happened because I started looking at the Shogun RTR. I was looking to see if there was a kit option, because I prefer to build and can't cope with pistol radios - I break my own shins using them! 🤣 That's when I found the XTR for less than £300. For the win!

Glad you love the truck. 👍 I think the truck is incredibly cool and I can't wait to clock up some more hours blasting mine around. I'm using 6S at the moment - frankly, it's mental. Keep us posted!

Sorry, brain fart - yeah, of course that's what you meant. For some reason I thought you meant the hexes. Thus my going off on a 23mm hub tangent. My bad. 🙄😂