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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!


henzy190

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What's the rules on the classifieds on this site? I'm going to sell all of my R/C car stuff and work on my full size project car(LS2 GTO). This truggy has been awesome and I hope it goes to someone into the hobby so they can enjoy it for what it is!!!

Edited by 92GreenGT
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See THIS for the rules mate.

 

TBird:  I aint the best person to speak about diffs.  But it's very hard to see damage in that photo (apart from top 'sun' gear).  If ya diff isn't that old, it could be down to a number of things.  Here's what I think.

  • Incorrectly shimmed  (even outa the box I personally check my diffs as manufacturing tolerences can make a difference)
  • You did to many donuts  :sly:
  • You hammered WOT from a standard still whilst tuning a little too often.
  • You landed on throttle or brakes.

I prefer silicon oil over grease in my diffs as it's a liquid and the gears will always be coated.  (as well as tuning preferences)

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What could cause this? Chewed up diff. It started before i jumped

I noticed in your picture there is no blue diff gasket on the spiral gear. I'd wager that because that is missing, the internal gears have meshed ever so slightly too close to one another resulting in excessive wear.

 

Failing that theory, it could be as Deafty mentioned. A hard landing off a jump, excessive donuts, etc.

 

Diffs can be tricky. If you so much as shim a diff incorrectly by 1mm, you can ruin your gears pretty damn quickly!

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See THIS for the rules mate.

 

TBird:  I aint the best person to speak about diffs.  But it's very hard to see damage in that photo (apart from top 'sun' gear).  If ya diff isn't that old, it could be down to a number of things.  Here's what I think.

  • Incorrectly shimmed  (even outa the box I personally check my diffs as manufacturing tolerences can make a difference)
  • You did to many donuts  :sly:
  • You hammered WOT from a standard still whilst tuning a little too often.
  • You landed on throttle or brakes.
I prefer silicon oil over grease in my diffs as it's a liquid and the gears will always be coated.  (as well as tuning preferences)
Prolly a mix of all the above wife left finger on wot when i started it. Then it started acting up

Already orderd some hard diffs and 3000wt oil for the rear see how that works for me. That spot in my pics is where i mostly drive it anyways. Still need some tires though

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Hello guys,

 

Bit of a noddy question, but what's the significance of the differing toe-in angles you can get for the rear suspension block? I understand the toe-in for the front end aids steering.

 

Also, while i'm on here, what is the suspension oil viscosity as standard on the Trophy 3.5 buggy from the factory? Had to build a new shock after a crash and didn't know what oil they come with as standard.

 

cheers.

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Blatantly stolen from elsewhere..

 

Front Toe "IN"

Slower steering response

More straight-line stability

Too much will causes greater wear at the outboard edges of the tires

 

Front Zero Toe

Medium steering response

Minimum power loss

Minimum tire wear

 

Front Toe "OUT"

Quicker steering response

Less straight-line stability

Too much will cause greater wear at the inboard edges of the tires

 

Less Rear Toe "IN"

Less straight-line stability

Less traction out of the corner

More steering

Higher top speed

 

Intermediate Rear Toe "IN"

Intermediate straight-line stability

Intermediate traction out of the corner

Intermediate steering

Intermediate top speed

 

More Rear Toe "IN"

More straight-line stability

More traction out of the corner

Less steering

Less top speed

Edited by Louise-Paisley
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Is 100k centre diff oil ok for brushless conversion?

Only real reason to run that thick is to reduce front tire ballooning.  If you have taped ya tires then I would run much lower ~15k

But again it's down to where you run, how you drive , what u like etc,.

 

Basically without taped tires ya gonna need to sacrifice mid diff tuning by running as you say 100k.  Nowt wrong with that just bare in mind your front end will lift off the ground easier.  (maybe you want that :lol:)

Edited by Deafty
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Finally bent my first front centre driveshaft but to be fair it was one hell of an impact :whistling:  Also bent my RC Monster motor mount,snapped the end off my front centre brace and cracked a wishbone .Not bad really considering it was 40+ head on with a 6" tall kerb stone :hahadance: 

 

While it's apart a 19 tooth pinion is going in and I might even clean it LOL 

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Selling my truggy :(

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509888001?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

Check it out, going for cheap for everything you get.  There is close to that amount of aluminum upgrades on it.  Looking like RC stuff isn't a good investment, LOL!

Bit pointless when you don't ship to here if you ask me

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What screw do people use to hold the Front suspension holder. The one that can break quite easily as i cant Find the screws for it apart from in a big screw set from HPI....

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Bit pointless when you don't ship to here if you ask me

 

Not that I'm completely against it, it's just that I've never done it.  I can always edit my listing, what extras do I have to deal with when shipping over there?  About how much more expensive is it?  Thanks

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Not that I'm completely against it, it's just that I've never done it.  I can always edit my listing, what extras do I have to deal with when shipping over there?  About how much more expensive is it?  Thanks

 

That is for you to find out from what's on offer in your country ..I'm sure there are sections in the eBay listings to assist you..

 

We do have a sales section thou if you'd like to use it :yes:   

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What screw do people use to hold the Front suspension holder. The one that can break quite easily as i cant Find the screws for it apart from in a big screw set from HPI....

 

I use to drill mine out and use a m4x40mm hex head marine bolts, but if you don't fancy that and are not that bothered what head it has just use these 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-x-40mm-SLOTTED-CHEESEHEAD-MACHINE-SCREWS-M3-5-NEW-BOLT-PACK-QUANTITY-OF-5-/261041368541?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item3cc7472ddd

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Yup M4 bolts all the way (but remember!:-- the bulkhead lip next to the screw hole need to be trimmed.)

 

 

Selling my truggy :(

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509888001?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

Check it out, going for cheap for everything you get.  There is close to that amount of aluminum upgrades on it.  Looking like RC stuff isn't a good investment, LOL!

$_57.JPG

 

What front C hubs are those please?

Edited by Deafty
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Can anyone advise me on what kind of gearing i would need, to increase the top end speed & acceleration on a stock tt 4.6, and also would changing the clutch to a 3 shoe improve speed significantly? Thanks

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You can't increase top end speed AND acceleration... You can either go for a larger pinion and smaller spur for more top end speed but LESS Acceleration or you can go down on pinion size and go for a larger spur for more acceleration but not as much top end speed. Note you don't have to change spur aswell as the pinion normally only changing pinion sizes or Clutch bell sizes should give a different performance

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17t clutchbell is regarded as the sweet spot on the TT.  Get one and you'll be happy :)

 

As for shoes:  Yes a decent 3 or 4 shoe will improve acceleration.

 

So with nitro you can get the best of both worlds,..plus the 4.6 engine is actually suited for the 17t

 

Don't forget a retune is in order with every change you make ;)

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Nitro guys correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know yes you can keep the stock spur gear.

I also just ordered a new front diff housing as the old one cracked from a very bent screw.... And also went fr the alluminium front brace from asiatees much cheaper than the hpi one and I haven't had any problems with GPM quality in terms of parts yet :)

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