J.A.Son Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 1 hour ago, russruss123 said: Need some help with my yeti. Finally had some time to fit all the upgrades. Ran it in the garden and when I try to go realy slow like crawler speed it sort of judders. Is it an issue with the esc I.e timing etc or is it a clutch issue. Tried to upload a video but not sure how too.  https://youtu.be/4Nj7b6Hljek   What motor is that? Brushless unsensored motors are prone to this at slow speed, it's know as 'cogging'. Lower gearing will help a little, but the fact is a BL unsensored motor isn't realy suited to slow crawling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Check the gear mesh- pinion/spur isn't too tight too! The stock spur is pants tbh, never runs true. With the centre f&r (centre) drive shafts disconnected and the motor disconnected from esc does the spur-pinion-transmission run smoothly and free? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russruss123 Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Gear mesh is ok. I will try it without the shafts in the morning. I will also back off the spur. I got a 14t pinion with it when I brought the yeti might try that aswell. Its a hobbywing WP-SC8 esc, and a hobbywing ez run 3656, a 3400kv motor. Its fine when i drive it like i stole it just didn't like the noise when I went slow. Not realy experienced with programing esc's what should the timing settings be set at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) What's it like actually on the ground, ie under load at low speed? With wheels off the ground there's very little load and you'll be using unrealistically small amounts of throttle input, which will exacerbate cogging. You could try backing off the timing to see if that helps? I've done this in the past to help motor over heating issues. You theoretically loose top end power/speed, but I didn't notice tbh, then it was only a step or two lower than default. Have a play with programming, one parameter and 1-2 steps at a time, you can always reset to default if you get lost.. Edited January 9, 2016 by J.A.Son spello Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russruss123 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Last run out I shattered both the rear stock beadlocks. Been locking at some new ones. Considering these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-faultline-2.2-black-black-bead-loc-6-lug-front-or-rear-wheels-for-yeti/rc-car-products/389385 Or http://www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=101832&pid=1 What wheels do you guys run or have any of you got these ones I have got my eye on and know if there anygood. I know my yeti is in the for sale thread but due to lack of interest I might just keep it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Looking for a rock racer to replace scout as it's too slow now for my 8 year old. Need something that I can chuck in the boot and bash/trail, is the 1/10 durable as not looking for a money bit as my lad is mainly going to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russruss123 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Its a good bit of kit but the stock beadlocks suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 17 hours ago, russruss123 said: Last run out I shattered both the rear stock beadlocks. Been locking at some new ones. Considering these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-faultline-2.2-black-black-bead-loc-6-lug-front-or-rear-wheels-for-yeti/rc-car-products/389385 Or http://www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=101832&pid=1 What wheels do you guys run or have any of you got these ones I have got my eye on and know if there anygood. I know my yeti is in the for sale thread but due to lack of interest I might just keep it. Those PL beadlocks are very good by all accounts. Trying to get a set without being held to ransom on price however is impossible. They've been 'on order' everywhere for about 6mths! Let me know if you find any, I would like a set myself, but gave up looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russruss123 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 There in stock at modelsport my friend I placed order this morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Ah, great! Their website says 'supplier stock' which I took to be on order or something!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russruss123 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Ow it does say that now maybe I got the last set. Think wheelspin had some tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) Time to revive the thread I took the yeti to Kessingland beach over the weekend for its first outing since last autumn, mixed emotions. The super swamped tyres are superb it just went over everything happy boy!!!! However if you recall back in September I fitted a topcad axle with a write up on this thread, wasn't over enthusiastic about the quality as it turns out well founded. After only 4 or 5 runs imagine then my dissapointment when I lost drive with horible gear crunching noises all in the space of a few feet! After getting home today and stripping out the diff cover and having a look I was shocked to see the pinion gear warn away, these are supposed to be heavy duty gears oh well chucked the old axle back on now for the Wales trip and awaiting the suppliers response to a warranty claim we can but hope Having now stripped the axle down fully I've found the gears are machined out of one piece of metal and not therefore replaceable individually or interchangeable with the axial parts, so with hindsight I should have stayed away from this axle and just used the beef tubes on the original plastic part, dam Edited May 2, 2016 by shaunm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 This is what 3s does to a top cad diff, the pinion is totally shot after only 4 or 5 runs, Asia tees are replacing the pinion under waranty which is very fair considering I purchased the axle last September!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Hi Shaun, do you think the replacement is going to be any better? Iirc the axial HD pinion isn't compatible either? You going back to AR60 I take it? I must say that mine's been solid with beef tubes and gpm alloy bearing/end caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) The replacement will probably be as bad but will give it a go just for fun! I'm going back to the original axle I've already done the HD gear upgrade I did that before I went to the top cad axle, I will still need to fit the beef tubes, must pm banners to see if he's still doing them? And I'll see if the axle end caps (lockers?) Fit the AR60 along with some of the other metal work from the top cad. Overall with hindsight I wouldn't by top cad again I would upgrade the AR60 Edited May 10, 2016 by shaunm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Or the cheaper Vanquish OCP axles, like I have: http://www.vanquishproducts.com/wraith-yeti-axle-v2-black-anodized/ Still not cheap, but worth it for the strength I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 4 hours ago, ostewart said: Or the cheaper Vanquish OCP axles, like I have: http://www.vanquishproducts.com/wraith-yeti-axle-v2-black-anodized/ Still not cheap, but worth it for the strength I think. Very nice had a look at them, did all the axial guts fit straight in? And apart from lockouts did you need anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_J_Smith Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I've found since fitting beef tubes that I've sheared two rear axles. Do you think it's related to the beef tubes or the fact I used Boom Racing axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) 56 minutes ago, Mike_J_Smith said: I've found since fitting beef tubes that I've sheared two rear axles. Do you think it's related to the beef tubes or the fact I used Boom Racing axles? I assume you mean the drive shafts, when I looked at upgrades for the fronts I was recommended to stick with axial heavy duty units as they were superior and have had no trouble with them so far, as for the rears I would expect the same to be true. I have used boom racing products on the yeti and several other models and to be fair have been pleased. Edited May 10, 2016 by shaunm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I have to agree with Shaun, I've had no issues with the AR60/BT's/alloy lockout combo using Axial HD drive-shafts. In which way have they 'sheared' Mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 2 hours ago, shaunm said: Very nice had a look at them, did all the axial guts fit straight in? And apart from lockouts did you need anything else? All fit straight in nice and easy, I only need the truss and C-Hubs to complete mine (using the plastic truss currently and Boom Racing c-hubs) You also don't need a shim behind the input pinion gear, as the mesh is perfect with the bigger bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_J_Smith Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 1 hour ago, J.A.Son said: I have to agree with Shaun, I've had no issues with the AR60/BT's/alloy lockout combo using Axial HD drive-shafts. In which way have they 'sheared' Mike? They both sheared around the pin. Maybe just a duff axle? I think I've done both sides from the pack now. Asiatees replaced them no problem, which was good. Will try the new replacement or see if u have an Axial one somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Looking at that I would say metal fatigue poor quality that's just a guess though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) 32 minutes ago, ostewart said: All fit straight in nice and easy, I only need the truss and C-Hubs to complete mine (using the plastic truss currently and Boom Racing c-hubs) You also don't need a shim behind the input pinion gear, as the mesh is perfect with the bigger bearing. That is now very tempting I may just go with that set up, did you get caught for tax? Do you have to buy the diff cover separate it seems to indicate that on the Web site? Edited May 10, 2016 by shaunm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I did as I bought them from the USA as RCmart had no black in stock, If you get them from RCMart no import, Or from here (slightly more expensive but worth it in shipping time and no tax) http://fanatic-rc.com/piece-et-option/1175-pont-v2-pour-wraith-ou-yeti-alu-noir-vanquish-products.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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