Nitro RC Nerd

Do you have something to add here or are you just stirring the pot? If this was not directed toward me, accept my apology--I have no beef with you so assume you did not read correctly instead of twisting things around. You'd never do that, right? ;-) I said nitro was more challenging than electric in many ways. And? Most hobbyists who have run both will tell you that.. So you are extra clear this time: It is more challenging to start, run, stop, accelerate, do wheelies, jump further, etc. etc. I've run both so please feel free to ask me questions about electric , as I'd be curious of your nitro background if you disagreed with that.. I'm not an electric-hater. Never have been. Regardless...I want to ensure that you understand things better now. Not being a smart-a$$...just talking facts (but I can joke too).

Boy? I a 44 with two loving children, a beautiful wife who has terminal cancer, supporting both my family and my community in more ways than you will ever know. I call that being a MAN, sir. You would not last one day in my shoes...I assure you of that. Well from an RC perspective alone--I have over 3k subscribers watching MY videos, which is growing exponentially, AND I have my own forum who would make a laughing stock of you (see, we've all been around and know how to deal with bullies like you). So once again. instead of calling people out and making generic statements like above-....what do YOU got? Or will you simply continue to call people names and critique them? You do realize doing anything other than telling us what YOU got will tell everyone what they need to know. There is no shame in my game, whatsoever. I help more people n this hobby in one day than you ever have nor ever will. ....so I'll bow out for now but let you explain to folks how you know what people 'got' and don't got....just don't forget about yourself. I can promise you we'd all to see it (not just hear about it) [Mods...I'm done with him--it's clear I made my point, so no worries about it escalating any further. People can judge for themselves here. ;-) ] Thanks

I'm So you can dish it out but not take it, eh Bubbles? You're just another gum flapper who talks a big game but that's all You think I am intimidated by bullies like you? You are a cartoon character to me and you have NO IDEA how many PMs I got from people thanking me for standing up to you after you called me out., So call iit brave call it whatever--but you and I both know (along with many others who are afraid to speak up so I'll say it for the) you are someone who is bad for this hobby. So quit being and internet forum bully (no one respects those) and take your beat-down like a man .I came here to talk RC not be told how I'm wasting your time, being called a tool, all of that. You can't take me on when it comes to talking RC so you resort to being a bully...and like all bullies can't handle it when someone fights back. I'm sure all your little minions on here who don't realize what a fraud you are will chime in....but I assure you that you aren't as 'special' on here as you think. Know that. Until you show us how you do things better than all the stuff you seem to criticize on this forum, I'm done wasting my time with you. If the truth hurts, oh well. Don't start none won't be none. Bully..

I know there is a lot of hype surrounding the Hyper 7's durability--but it;s real. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIQCVedFK-k&feature=youtu.be

Mugen MBX6R Clocked P5/2058

Okay, first tip would be to continue and do your homework like you are. Nitro RC gets expensive if you learn as you go (I know first hand). To answer your other questions: 1. I would get 20-30% of a quality brand (Byrons, Werks, ODonnel, Nitrotane, etc)... 2. I'm not familiar with the current stock engine but definitely set needles to stock (if you don't know just go flush/liush 3. No need to break in the engine again unless it's had 'work' done to it (re-pinched, and new parts) 4.I would suggest getting a new air filter and fuel delivery system (tank, lines, replace/clean inline filter). Just me....if you think the previous owner did not take care of it well, those would be the two things you don want. If you 5. Remove air-filter neck and ensure carb is not open while at neutral with electronics on. Starting a nitro for the first time can be frustrating. Apply heat to the engine before starting.A lot of guys use a heat gun by a blow dryer will work just as well.They are very easy to flood. The second you feel any sort of choppiness on the pull-start...stop and un-flood it. Also, if it does not start up or not even fire after a few pulls something is not right (flooded, not primed, bad plug/ignitor, idle set too low are most common). I hear about people pulling until they get blisters...they are wasting their time. If it doesn't start....it won't. Figure out what is stopping it. Some folks get lucky but most I know were challenged to start their first nitro on a consistent basis. I'd say if you start it tomorrow you've reached a milestone. Most of all, keep learning and leverage the support from the nitro community by asking anything and everything you are unsure of. Keep us posted!

You know it. ;-) I have a friend who works for HPI and I would not bother to ask him as I doubt he knows. It's like the secret the Coke formula, the Divinci Code, and then the stock oil wt for the Savage. 30wt does indeed to be the most popular 'guess' next to 20wt. This is why I wanted to test it out. Granted it was no HPI oil vs HPI oil and it was in the middle or summer....but just cant see the stock being so far from AE. I have a new set arriving tomorrow or Saturday. I'll test it against some PT Racing 400cst. In all seriousness, this is why I'd love to see RTR vehicles start posting base sheets for folks. (The same problem seems to exist with the Hyper 7.)

Saab..that is awesome! It never stops...I made stuff for my son today, and my dad put some stuff together for me (and I'm 44!) As for RC, while everyone was pre-occupied I managed sneak away and prep my Savage for a new engine I'll be breaking in this weekend.

Electric vehicles are fun to warch jump because of the torque and at our track I sit and really enjoy watching the buggies fly (it's a scene, man) , but I enjoy watching nitro's jump due to how much more challenging it is (plus I'm so used to nitro the lack of sound in electrics creeps me out. I still want to see Bubble's Savage jump (and hope it is nitro like in the video above). i also find repeated jumps more impressive (as opposed with someone who jumps over the monkey bars at a skare park and giggle while his vehicle breaks in 1/2....calling it the best jump eveR because simply because it ended in 'carnage'. I had a friend who would always argue with that his vehicle was so tough because he broke it all the time.I told him once when bashing it was more like a POS because it broke and asked him to keep up....he knows.We laughed as he got his carnage and mine kept going until we got tired of watching it. To each is own, own guess. Perhaps nitro guys are less critical of one another since we all share common bond of knowing what it takes to truly make it sing. ;-) I like watching vehicles just tear at it over and over and over and over again. The nitro heads I know have an appreciation for that. With that I love SavageJunky's videos! He helped me validate design flaws I was seeing as well got me thinking of areas i had not considered and test it out. His jumps are spectacular, and more importantly he takes the time out to help and is always positive and encouraging with other videos. So yeah...Kudos to SavageJunky if you are on here.

I'd love to hear what shock springs you run?For those of you that spring balance, 'm going to spring balance iy and would like to hear whatever combination(s) you have balanced it with and the frequency rate (soft, neutral, firm). as well as how far off stock is from it. Based on what I've used, the rear is easiest to change, I've run, MP9, MBX5/6/7, as well as TLR Ten Series. Only needing to o-ring the collar for Mugen 6/7 and MP9, and only needed to use TLR spring retainers for the Ten-seroes. In most cases I used the front of the aftermarket in the rear of the Hyper 7. For those of you who have not spring-balanced it can you provide some springs you have tried and if they fit? By fit I mean it fits in to a retainer/collar that can fit on the shock, in addition to not having to compress 1/2 for full down-travel/bones even.Thanks for any and all feedback

After employing the bulkhead brace kit , I noticed that the b and c blocks are already a bit bend where the pin knocked it. The good news is the kit did it's job, but surprised it gave in so easily. To be fair I've not spoken with Dejan about this yet...and really not looking for compensation or anything..but this is a little unnerving. Just curious about the success others have had with it? Has anyone else had theirs bend? I really didn't even go off on the truck and test it out yet...it seemed to bend by de-facto. I'm running this kit because I have to (it mitigated a design flaw with the truck). I'm not one of these guys who does a 'build' by compiling a big list of parts not even knowing if they are needed, and worse never driving my truck but instead only talking about all hhe cool parts I;m compiling. So know that I got this kit with explicit intentions so anything else is a let-down.. I told him a while back I'd like to see a 'Next Gen' version offered with threaded hinge pins that can be captured with nylon nuts. I realize it might not be cost-effective but it's really the right way to do it, IMO. I know I'd pay a little extra to do it right. When I saw the b block, I thought ('ah...bad luck on my end...but then saw the 'c' and it was worse). As noted, they did their job...but if they give any more they won't be doing it.

Ha ha. I would not trust their manual--at all.. (And actually their manual states 32.5 and 40 as stock)...so unsure where you got 30 from...unless you are just basing it off that post. The manual has quite a bit of incorrect information pertaining to shocks especially, so they did a poor job of editing and/or keeping it up to date. It's a great mystery to be honest. I've read everything from 15 to 30 as stock. Irregardless, all I can tell you is the stock oil that came with the sets I have have viscosity with the same damping affect as AE 20wt. It wasn't 15 it wasn't 25 (and certainly was not 32.5 or 40). In the end it's here nor there of course....the idea for ascertaining the correct oil is what I noted above. Whether it is stock or not.

I don't believe stock is 30wt here in the states. I believe it's closer to 20. I base this on taking a set of stocks and comparing the damping against a set with 30wt and one with 20wt. It dampened almost exactly like the 20wt (It was AE oil) Remember that viscosity changes drastically among brands. For springs remember they don't have to be HPI Savage springs. In fact they don't need to be HPI springs. Mugen MBX5T springs work great with this truck. If you see them on ebay for cheap might be worth snatching up.

Yeah,. it does look sleeker...but I think the chassis is the same, perhaps the mud guards are thinner? I'll give it a go and let you guys know what comes up!

To simply NO CENSORED SWEARING PLEASE AS PER THE RULES .....RM...... Either that or a bad copy/paste job. I just have to laugh at the haughty grammar/spelling gestapo. As I said it's the best EVAR! http://lmgtfy.com/?q=best+evar It's called satire.. p.s. Hey Bubbles, I would not click the link above or you're going to waste another :48 seconds of your life. I've already been in the dumps all week for wasting 7:25 of it earlier...so cannot be held responsible for any more.