dazzlerby

Looks nice, definately looks like it's worth a try and good quality too looking at the pics on the ishima racing site.

There is none, the only evidence i have ever seen is here: and the guy actually does just fine after a spliff....

i got the same car, just unscrew the 4 screws holding it on but be careful taking it off as the spring can shoot out and hurt you. you can either take the engine out to get access or just take the rear assembly off. hope that helps Daz.

What buggy?

The high speed needle literally adjusts the ratio of fuel to air and it's too complicated to explain how this affects mid & high speed power but it does. the idle needle simply stops the carb from shutting off at a certain point to allow just enough air/fuel mixture to enter the engine to keep it 'ticking over'.

I use nitro fuel & it works a treat. the nitro evaporates & leaves behind the oil.

Have you fiddled about with the mixture a lot? (turning it in till it stops, then turning it back out again) cos i did that & snapped the end of the needle off!! i had excactly the same symptoms as you.....i ended up drilling it out with a very fine drill bit and it still works now (although i only have to open the valve about 1/2 a turn to compensate) have a look cos it definately sounds like summats blocked. regarding the idle setting.....MAKE SURE THE THROTTLE IS FULLY OPEN BEFORE MAKING ADJUSTMENTS. otherwise you might damage it.

i was just thinking the same......if he's your mate i'm sure you could organise that

Try taking it apart again & putting it back together.

I see what you're getting at but i never mentioned cams or pushrods, the nitro engine in the diagram u showed does have an intake valve in the form of the port on the crankshaft that lets the fuel/air mixture in to the bottom of the crankcase. as the valve opens well before tdc i doubt the engine would run well at all or for any length of time in reverse and would die as soon as all the fuel inside the crankcase/head has burned off.

i think it might actually work running the engine in reverse so sorry if i pi55ed anyone off but i have been thinking and the only way i can think of is if the inlet valve was right on tcd or bdc, as the timing would be too much of a problem otherwise, like with a normal side-valve, that would not work.

here's a tip, if you heat the end of the spring with a blowtorch until it glows red and then bend it, it will last longer. if u decide to try the above.

Try another brand, i got a 2100mah rc systems one and i'ts lasted ages.

i agree, but a rotostart would eliminate the problem completely, i suppose it's a matter of taste. Im a pullstart man myself

if you run a 2 stroke engine in reverse the engine will pull air in through the exhaust, then in to the crankcase & out through the carb, it just wouldn't work....you might get 1 or 2 fires if you get a bit of fuel in to the combustion chamber first and have a good glow plug but the engine certainly will not "run" i.e for more than a split second. in reverse. Are there any engineers on here please?