biggusditchus

Bump... I am open to reasonable offers . Maybe open t trades but sorry Im not interested in modern cars, nitros etc,

Having a bit of a clearout... 1st my Venom GPV with a losi 5000kv brushless system, some sensible hopups including the crashback front end and nylon crash bars. Hardly used.

@nitroholic Yeh the chassis is ugly, unfortunately functional is always going to look ugly on this build. It will work on land and water, I have already done the float test and its good. But as you say the transition is going to be the true test of it.. it will either work or wont LOL Dom as soon as its ready for a test it will be on video... hopefully in not too distant future.

Got a little more done on the Toybota today, repositioned mount of outboard onto the transom of hull (instead of shell), sorted the steering for outboard, steering for front wheels and gave the hull a coat of bed liner (I had a can, it covers the inperfections and is black so works for me LOL). Front wheel steering sorted.. Coat of bed liner on chassis/hull.. With the shell on the chassis/hull no longer stands out too much.

On old boats I use lightweight glass cloth about 25gsm, and eze kote resin. The great thing about eze kote is it dries really quickly, only an hour or so, dont need to do it outside the house either as it doesnt stink.

Could have done but didnt , yes I know 2nd one is actually a Nissan!

Ok, here is a proper update, I have pretty much got the Hull/chassis built and sealed (gave the inside, mostly joins in plywood, a liberal coating of nail and seal. Before removing the gearbox, wheels etc I did a quick watertest to check it floats which it does albeit a little too low on rear, I did add a motor, esc, battery, servo etc to simulate completed set up. I can sort the rear weight bias fairly easily... instead of the 540 drive motor for wheels I will use a 380/400 as it doesnt need loads of speed it just needs to move. I will also make sure I use a small lipo for power mounted forward in hull/chasssis. The rear boxed area is filled with polystyrene as is the space above where gearbox sits. I appreciate it looks more than a little messy inside but once its painted with stone chip all will be good, looks inside arent important but keeping the lake on outside of hull is important LOL.. plus it still needs a good sand. How I modified wheels using the centre of a Mardave V12 wheel. Working on the hinging for outboard motor.. http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh591/bigguditchus/6-5_zpse08e2c5a.jpg

The running gear for on land is Mardave V12 with modded 1.9inch wheels to fit the axles. The chassis tub is a wood plywood build so that I can make sure it sealed and will float. I will try sort an update tonight, just changed jobs so extra time for models has been tight. (I have been collecting parts though )

Cool, found one send me a pm with your address and I will get it in the post as soon as I can.

Thread commenced.. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/168517-top-gear-toybota/

Ok here goes a project Toybota, yes I know Im using a Hilux shell and the one Im modelling was the Nissan one but its close enough for me. The Hilux shell is from a toy grade RC toy, I roughly filled in unwanted holes in the bed and then painted it white. The stripes are just some off cut of vinyl I had. The barrels were made from plastic pipe and plasticard then painted and screwed through the wheel arches and some more plasticard square rod used to mock up metal mounts used on real one. The console was made from plasticard and the wheel from a Tamiya Wild Willy 2. I made the fishing rods from some carbon rod in short pieces of aerial tube for the holders. The outboard motor was from a club member at my boat club which had a small motor in it, but I have changed it by taking all the guts out and gluing it back together (and painting it)then gluing a tube through where prop drive will be and the drive motor can be mounted in the hull. The hull is being made from thin plywood, which will have joints sealed with nail'n'seal. The drive train for on road use is from a Mardave V12, but using Tamiya 1.9 wheels which had the hubs of Mardave wheels glued to the inside for attaching to Mardave axles... a bodge but works perfectly. The figure is a Dr Who action figure, repainted to give a representation of Jeremy, (finding a Clarkson figure is ipossible, I presume one was never made.) I have since altered the hull behind front wheels to add some angle to it, looks better. Hopefully this will work on land and in water... fingers crossed.

It was, but I prefer thhe white one to blue Toyota.. this Hilux shell is close enough. 80s pickups were all very similar. I have looked into doing DamperVan, If Toybota comes out alright I will have a go.. Cant find a 12th scale Herald shell anywhere though

Yeh will sort it over next day or too. It will (hopefully) drive on land and sail on water using the outboard.

Are they these by any chance?? If so Im bound to have one lay about somewhere.

Little more work on a project I have...

Clod sold, brushless still for sale

Sorry chap they were sold a long time ago and I have a falcon in the collection.

Bump... reasonable offers are welcomed.. maybe trades on vintage tamiyas, boats maybe I dunno.. whats worst I can say to an offer

BUMP

My Volvo V70 D5,

Kyuss - Green Machine

Between the SX and Hotshot I would have the Hotshot but thats just personal choice as I dont race and love the old Tamiyas, should I race then the SX would be a no brainer. To answer the OP's question.. Boomerang it is a better buggy.

Next up is an Mtroniks G2 3500kv Brushless system complete with setup card, box and instructions -

Well I have decided to gamble on that plug, for the price whats to lose. (other than a lipo LOL)

I tried that and blew the lipo and for that matter the plug fuse at my local racing club LOL, the output is 5v but at 1amp which is too much for the little lipo with Hubsan to cope with. I charge from my rc car charger now.at 0.5amp.