adefirestorm

What clutch system you using, I have been thinking going for JVD as I can't afford the buku one, mine original agama only lasted 1 gallon of fuel which is a bit depressing

No problem just type Fastrax Enduro 21 loads info about.

I don't think you need any kind of monitor for it but this would work reads voltage per cell from 2.7 -4.5, don't think have alarm build in but mount this somewhere that you can just pull the car in and have a quick look http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7367__Turnigy_Mini_Lipo_Battery_monitor_2S_6S_.html

Thais is what you looking for Fast3053, also link to manual with parts numbers, is well known engine http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/122807/ http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/FAST3000/files/Engine%20Settings.pdf

the x act engine was reviewed on maxbashing which had good comments, I don't think you would go wrong with this at the beginning, Friend of mine got the same buggy and he fitted Novarossi and if you think your shock towers are made from "butter" then the diffs are from cheese, believe me get this for your diffs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-MP9-Diff-Rebuild-Kit-IF402-Gears-Shafts-o-rings-Washers-etc-P056-/131449995650?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e9b07c182

Thanks for that info I have the manual at hand and I was looking also on the manual for the V2 version which indicated the temp, looking around on rctech the temps you quoted looks like is for the v2 motor and not sure how they compare to the v1 version, will get down to track next weekend and will go up in venturi size and lean the motor out.

Hi Not sure but does your kit comes with 2.4ghz tx/rx? , battery wise you need to get hump pack like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6V-3300-5000mAh-SubC-SC-Premium-Racing-RC-battery-pack-with-custom-connector-/231500864010?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item35e686da0a Size and capacity depends on your buggy design and where you can mount it, if you using 4 x aa battery that could be your problem why the car shoots off, also if you can set up your fills safe so the throttle servo goes to natural or brake position once you lose signal, failing that get fastrax return spring http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-throttle-return-springs-for-.21-28-size-engines-2-/rc-car-products/371962

I'm can run about 1h to 1.5 h on track with 2 savox servos on 1600 mah and they about 3/4 discharged but they still pushing the voltage abouve 6v on servos not like the nimh Also don't worry about 20c-40c you only running servos and receiver, most receivers will take the 7.2v when life is charged

another video

I will do video tomorrow how it gets changed on turnigy charger which is the same as imax so most likely same as yours, scrap that watch this video and you can see how he changes under user set setting Hope this helps

Well you can spend

Your charger will charge life, quick google comes up with this http://www.componentshop.co.uk/6-6v-4200mah-lifepo4-receiver-battery.html

also upgrade the diffs, what I mean they only have 2 planetary gears inside they won't last very long

Well what is your budget for engine and what you want to do? as for starter box SMD or fastrax, I have the fastrax and use 3s or 4s lipo on it no problems, engine if you want something somthing that preforms good but with out the price tag "X act" if you have few spare pounds Novarossi or OS engine

I did come across this thread before, I could use deflector but there should be nice stream of fumes but not that much of oil spitting, if I lean out bit more the car running out of fuel near the top revs as soon as I back the needle is fine, Will get down to track next week so will have play again and see what happens

around 110C-115C

I just removed the head and there is planty un burn staff. Do this looks normal

Well I'm trying to determinate why does it spits so much oil, so something saying in back of my head that is not burning correctly and I may well be "barking at the wrong tree here" but could this be to do with the timing? or that engine just don't like the fuel I'm using, also what I mean for superb is the car idle fine, revs all the way up when accelerating I can't think of anything what could create this problem

Hi I need your advice about head shims, I'm having problem with my engine it just spits oil/fuel out the exhaust but is not rich, I know it sound hard to believe but the car preforms superb apart from spits lots of oil now the engine is Dynamite Platinum Xp and running on 25% byron, is not the first nitro I tuned but this one got better of me, I managed to find manual for it and said that the engine was design to run 20% and if I remember correctly on some engines you had to change the shims on heads but only if you run on 30% so could this apply to this engine? don't want to get another engine but it drives me mad when I do few laps on track the the whole side of the car is covered in oil and dirt just stick to it. Anyone can help

I know they been working on it for the national after the euro b, but is very nice track also it helps that the shop is always open on race days if you need something

Nah I come back in September [emoji106]

So what have I missed, looks like long post ????

Nitroholic you have a wild mind last time I remember when I was reading your baja build the one in your signature, is nice to see it you still carry out your innovation's will keep a eye on this. Good luck

I have seen recently the x4 car and that looked bad and I can see they carry this over to this model, not sure but it looks like licensing issue to me, does anyone notice they don't actually scaling real cars down they creating something like the real things, I could be wrong but that's my view.

Remove pads and if there is material on shoes not on disk take some sand paper and ruff them up a bit, clean disk up with brake cleaner to remove contamination, worse case scenario your pads are contaminated and need new ones or your servo is not powerful or not adjusted.