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Know what you're saying!! I've just 'glugged' the first glow plug breaking in, so I've changed the plug and it's time to start leaning on the 32. There is a big choice out there. Al.

I can understand somebody being interested in one of them, but these are engines that have probably ceased production years ago, for which parts will be difficult to locate, and may also be manufactured to poorer tolerances than today's engines, meaning lower power as well. Would you really want 10 such engines? Al.

OR ..... unusual these days of Recession, but if there's money burning a hole, it's Time For An Upgrade!! Good luck with the repair if that's the route you're taking. Al.

You can have good and bad experiences with any truck. I love my nitro MT - it's an LST2 spec 1/8 Raminator, now with an LRP ZR.32 Spec2 engine just breaking in. Excellent truck, but it's 'had it's moments' as well!! Al.

Definitely sounds lean. Check for leaks. If it continues with a richer setting, a 'cheap fix' is to replace the fuel tubing - might be a split somewhere. After time, sometimes the engine head screws loosen slightly - should be 'firm' tight - this may be one to look for. Keep us all updated and good luck. Al.

I've been breaking in an LRP ZR.32 in my LST2 Spec 1/8 Raminator - neighbours must love me, but I keep it to after 11:00, before 19:00 in Summer (or 'dark' in Winter). I've questioned the 5.25 / 5.5 needle settings as it seems quite high, but they are correct, possibly a little lean when it's warmed up! It's a 'beast' but I'll have to be patient and respect the heat cycling, and after-run oil ..... Can't wait to get this fully running. It's had 3 tanks on 'suspended static' and now 1 tank on light throttle openings. Time to start stretching it's legs, a little !!! Al.

Good advice there. I generally have MT's, and use the 1256TG a lot - steering for the smaller 1/10 stuff, and throttle/brake on the 1/5-1/6 stuff. This is too powerful for what you need. Savox as 'a breed' I reckon are about as good as it gets - speed, power, quality, reliability. One FG racer on the Largescale Forum reckons he's had some problems with his Savox servos when the ambient got very hot, but that's about it. Al.

Just installed an LRP Z.32 Spec2 into my LST2 Spec Raminator. Had 3 tanks through it so am now GENTLY running it on ground - it's a rocket - signs of REAL power. If you could locate one within budget, and I'm not that familiar with the others mentioned, I'd defo consider this LRP. Al.

Just waiting for the body now. I've got the wheels, green pushrods, body mounts .... I've always liked MT's and particularly the G-D. Should have my 1/16 Grave Digger VXL up and running during next week. I've fitted a centre diff., which doesn't just calm the excessive wheelying of the MERV, it stops it completely. I would like some wheelying as an MT, but I'd also noticed why my 2 year old MERV was 'grinding gears' - turned out it was the rear diff!! A complete rear end is on its way from USA - got a bit of a bargain!!

That's a nice bodyshell. Let's see it installed on the MERV. Al.

Excellent points above. I realise it's an old post. Alloy gear carrier is a good point, I'd definitely add alloy engine mounts, and probably diff mounts. If either the pinion or spur is steel, you must match the other. If one is steel, the other alloy or plastic, the weaker one will be chewed alive. Much has been mentioned on LargeScale against the gear cover - if you get stones inside, they generally don't escape as easily and will potentially jam the gears. Al.

Just a question. I always find these engines seem to run hot, and with the OS R8 plug (medium/hot) it possibly doesn't help. Do you continue with the OS R8, or have you tried the OS A5, I think it is - medium? Al.

Fair comment. I found that the factory 'recommenations' were pretty accurate - I had set H/L as 5.0/5.0 and found it 'screaming', basically an indication it's too lean. It's a SUPER STRONG motor and feels like it'll really be a beast!! I've had 2 tanks / heat cycles through it so I can start increasing revs - A LITTLE ..... Thanks for the reply. I asked fo advice / ideas on LST Forums and NOTHING for 1 month .... Al.

I joined this Forum years ago, but to be honest, haven't frequented it much - sorry guys!! Just installed a LRP ZR.32 Spec2 into my LST2 spec1/8 Raminator. Factory needle settings are very high - 5.25 low / 5.5 high - other LRP and Mach engines around 3 - 4 tops. Does anyone have any experience with these motors and recommended needle settings? Thanks, Al.

You need to 'prime' the fuel - this is either a primer bulb in the fuel tank, a fuel filter with bulb on it, or simply by covering the exhaust as you try starting. Do this with the glow igniter on the plug and once it kicks, DO NOT prime anymore. If you try too hard you'll flood the engine - simply remove the plug, invert and turn over the engine with the rotostart or pullstart a few times. I do suggest you check the plug first - remove it and place it as you would normally on the igniter and see if it glows - may need replacing. Al.

Thanks for the reply Matt. I did run a little last week and the LiPo's felt mildly warm - they weren't, it was heat transmitted through the aluminium gearbox halves from the motor, which was quite hot, but I wouldn't say any more than normal. I'm in contact with Novak and Charlie hasn't any magical fix just yet - I suspect you're right. I can't locate any loose connections anywhere.

I've a heavily hopped-up E-Maxx with 'aluminium everything', which has had a HV Maxx 4.5 for several months. I changed the pinion to lower the gearing as suggested at the start. It has Robinson Racing 65t spur with a hardened steel 13t pinion - fine for normal sized wheels. Monster trucks are meant to be extreme and with one of the extreme power plants, I had to see what was available re. wheels / tyres and have Imex Baja 44's on - 25mm larger in diameter and width +/- They look superb, but I quickly started the hunt on Ebay and located a 72t spur to bring the gearing closer to correct again. It was obviously running better in 1st than 2nd. It now has a very strange characteristic, as if if it were brushed, it's got badly worn brushes and a dirty commutator. The chassis rolls OK - not too stiff - but when the pinion's engaged to the spur, the moment I give soe throttle, there's a clock, and . . . nothing. No heat either. If I continue up to full, the green light comes on on the speed controller as it should. When I disengage the motor pinion from the spur, I have very few problems at all, with low up to high speed, BUT if I reverse, then go forwards, it can click and do nothing again. A little coaxing gets it going. I'm using new AA Duracells in the transmitter tested at 1.615 to 1.619V and 2 x Venom LiPo's, tested to 8.44 and 8.48v. The steering's fine and the transmission changes without problem. All connections and cables appear perfectly OK, without a single problem. Anyone got any ideas what it is and who could repair whatever the problem is, and obviously an idea of how much ? Thanks.