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hum@nzee

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Everything posted by hum@nzee

  1. Happy to do the rebuilding etc, all part of the fun. What would you recommend re motor and ESC?
  2. Thanks yep typo - 3200mah I hear what you're saying - I'll hop up and strengthen where I can, keep it calm and it'll still be a lunatic on the sand. I've got a re-re runner, a few shelfers and this is going to be fun. If it dies, I'll fix it, and it'll still spend most of its life on a shelf in any case.
  3. So I've got a small SRB collection and have decided to build a semi-vintage runner. The chassis is an old alloy 'butterfly' plate similar to the current RadShape RC offering (and others) only with a few dings on the underside. There's a Mk2 rear assembly and a Mk1 front, NOS coil over shocks, steel UJs and other vintage after market hop ups too that I may or may not add. I've got an alloy spur gear set on the way and it'll have good, new bearings everywhere possible. I've got a few Tamiya Sport Tuned black cans to power my shelfers gently around the house but have decided to go the whole hog on this build and go LiPo and brushless. I've got 2 Overland 1600s that might just fit in the battery box, and was thinking I'd wire them in parallel go give me a 4200 pack. I need advice and recommendations for a good ESC and motor, the latter to be a standard 540 size obviously to fit in the housing and ideally for a waterproof ESC. This will probably be mounted on top of the battery box or hanging out the back somewhere for plenty of fresh air, hence the need for being waterproof. The one recommendation I've had was for the HPI Vapor and HPI Vector 4000KVA motor. There are much faster motors but I want to be able to blast it on the beach for a good 15-20 minutes at least without seeing it explode into a hundred bullet speeding pieces, and figured I should set a limit? I know the sensible route would be nimh, brushed and probably not on the beach, but that's kind of the point. Anyhow any and all comments welcome, cheers.
  4. Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x In Ears: Sure SE215 I use the ATs mostly for convenience - Sod's law says as soon as I've got my Sures positioned nicely my wife needs to discuss something important :-| The Sures sound great to me, loads of space and sparkle and enough bass for most things. Only issue I have is that it takes me 5 minutes to get them on! I tend to only listen through my phone or iPad these days which is a shame - my Arcam, Nad and Rega 3 is in the loft and the floor standers are long gone. I'll get it all down one day...maybe. I considered a headphone amp for the iPad to improve my Netflix, movies and music but again, not sure of the benefits. Might pay to get my ears sorted first, a mate had his done and he horrified me with the details of Christ knows what was removed. >~p
  5. Quick update Build is about 95% done, just a few body details to complete now, rear lights, windscreen wipers (none included - not even stickers?), install the LEDs into the body (waiting on little JST connectors so I can remove the shell easily (chassis lights done) and some paint on the outside of the roof for a matt finish as the shiny black isn't doing it for me. I'm happy how the grey turned out though, lexan bodies aren't my favourite but the details and quality of this one are pretty good I think. I managed a quick run around our favourite local trail, Moseley Bog, and got so excited forgot to take any pictures until after we got back :-| Anyhow - I've got some Super Swampers on the way so I'll be back there soon It ran really well apart from a few glitches, these may have been a combination of running in, getting wet and my ESC programming (also that I made a stupid mistake before leaving (excited and rushing) and may have wounded my LiPo - pulled the bananas out of the charger instead of disconnecting the battery - you know what happened next. Anyhow, I got almost all the way around before loosing occasional control - I had to tap my foot on its arse with the trigger down to get it going from a standstill, but whilst moving it was fine. I'll reprogram the ESC, check all the connections and use another battery. My son's Maverick seems bullet proof out of the box though and is stock. That was a great buy. He loves it, is doing really well for a 5 year old, and is 'reasonably' excited that I've ordered a 27t motor and some LEDs for it! Cheers all, more to follow! Better with a bit of dirt!
  6. If I give you my address can you ask him to drop one at mine?
  7. A set of RC4WD black steel bead locks, adaptors with the brake discs, alloy servo arm, RC4WD LEDs, a waterproofing kit and a coffee mug.
  8. An hour in the park with my son and his Maverick had me itching to get back to mine, so when I did I got the body cut out and trimmed, had a 'dry' fit together , marked up and then drilled the majority of the screw holes where needed. Just needs a good wash and dry, masking up and we're ready for paint. I've decided to keep it simple and will be going for sea grey and a black roof. The body is a real piece of work, I'm impressed how it all pairs up so well once all cut out. I found the dremel a godsend cutting the arches out, the ragged looking edges are actually the ends of the overspray film curled up and ripped I'll need to mask a bit here and there, but not as much as I was planning. I hadn't looked at all the stickers and didn't realise how many there were for the interior! I'll probably do a bit with the 'maskol' liquid anyway for fun. Fingers crossed for some sun in the week!
  9. Cheers, really enjoying it to be honest, I love having a project on the go and have missed it. Regarding your battery, is that in front of the shocks and is it a shorty pack or full size? Sounds good. I love how flexible these kits are, it seems like each one I see is 'modded' differently.
  10. After a few 'senior' moments I managed a temporary install of the electrics, to program the ESC, and YESSSS!! drive it around the house, over myself and generally get over excited:) I couldn't resist any longer and pulled the trigger on a set of RC4WD stamped steel bead locks today, glad I didn't glue the Trepadors on yet. I'm trying hard not to buy any upgrades until I've broken it all in but it's not easy. I did also order some hex adaptors with faux brake discs and some LEDs but that doesn't count...and an alloy servo horn...and an RC4WD mug for my tea. Anyhow, body next. Still not decided on the colour, thinking something subtle like a sandy beige, or grey or white. Happy weekend all!
  11. I made some progress last night and I've got myself a roller loving it! I think I've sorted the servo arm issue too - I'lI see how it goes. It'll be the electrics next and a drive around the house
  12. I made a start late on Sunday night, and managed a bit more last night, so it's started to take shape. I found I had the issues with the axels 'clicking' as it hit a tight spot on the rotation. I took them apart and rebuilt them and took my time tightening the hex screws whilst turning the prop. I managed to minimise it but it is still there. The issue on mine at least is that the axels and diff aren't completely straight when assembled, and when the axel adapters are put on with the bearings inside, they force the ends of the axels to straighten, and transfer the kink to the diff. No doubt it'll wear itself smooth over time if I haven't swapped them for cvds by then. These 'problems' are all part of the fun in my book. The other 'problems' is the servo, again, common I think. The Rm catches on the front brace and the plastic mounts that hold the servo also appear to clonk the chassis when articulated. It all seems very tight in there, in sure they could have made a little more room here to avoid this? I haven't decided if I can do without the brace or whether to chop it about a bit. Suggestions or topic links welcome I'll be running a 5000mAh LiPo (not a shorty) and think I'll put it up front as per the option in the 'destructions'. It has got some weight to it so worth doing probably. Again, any other suggestions welcome of course. I've fitted the stock plastic upper links and again, the 'Y' link seems to hit and have to bend around the prop during articulation - no surprise they use plastic there then! I'll probably go to 4 link at its first overhaul along with cvds so long as I've figured out how to do it. I'm planning on got for the alloy c hubs and high steer knuckles at the same time, but agin, looking at it I can't see how they'll fit with out hitting things- do they? Just curious. Anyway here are a few obligatory pictures.
  13. Good idea, think I'll have to Good idea on the Green Slime. I have actually got a few very small tubes of it that I bought for my SRB restorations, I'd forgotten all about that stuff but will definitely dig those out tonight before I add the oil. I might have some 20 weight but probably not enough, plus it'll be about 6 years old, don't suppose that makes any difference though - will probably run the 30 then see how I go. Cheers
  14. Looks great matey, especially with a bit of mud on it. I'll have to make a decision soon about the colours as I had an eventful evening in the end and built the axles, drive shafts and the shocks (dry). I'll see what oils I've got but will probably go stock in any case for the first fill. More tonight!
  15. Cool, orange sounds good matey. I'm still undecided on the colour. I'm going to try not to get too hung up on the body (I usually do) so that I'll be happy to give it some grief:) I've got a beefy Savox to go up front, 25kg I think, so that should throw it about ok. The only thing I'm missing is the motor and I think I'm going to order a 35T RC4WD from RcBitz.. To be honest I can't wait to get started on it!
  16. Amazing - and great pictures too. The one with the multicoloured BM fooled me completely - was convinced it was 1:1
  17. Good to hear. I've got a list of upgrades building already but I'm not planning on doing any until I've run it stock for a while. I've opened the box and drooled over the squeaky new bits but that's all I've had time for this weekend unfortunately. I'd quite like to swap out the upper plastic links for metal from the outset, but I'm not sure what to do with the front 'Y' link. I figured it was a straight forward mod to go for metal 4 link up front but after reading and watching different options on YouTube I'm a bit none plussed! Out of interest, have you upgraded to front 4 link? Anyway, I'm planning on a stock build for now, a few months of fun and learning, and then a strip, upgrade, and rebuild. I've noticed too that some I've seen have the roof and rear section painted matt black, in fact it looks that way on the box, is that part painted on the outside of the lexan?
  18. "Early happy birthday to me, I've been to Radshape Rc, early happy birthday to me, happy birthday Johnny". Sorry about that, kind of excited! More to follow no doubt
  19. Thanks mate - I've realised now that it's definitely brushed that I'll need. The Tekin looks great, new to me, The Novak looks good too and I've always liked their gear in the past. I need to research 'home waterproofing techniques' now I'm going for LiPos for the first time too so lots of new fun for me. Also just worked out that Radshape probably make most of their sales online anyway so all good there - I'll probably drop in to collect a Dingo (or Ascender - still really appeals) rather than waiting and missing a delivery, and pick up some batteries etc at the same time. Thanks for the help.
  20. I've just had a successful sort out and eBay session and have bumped my funds in the right direction excited! I'm pretty much decided on the Dingo Kit, I've got a Spektrum with spare room on it, have decided on Lipos, and want to start a shopping list. I'm only about 20 mins from Radshape Rc, door to door, so think I might be best to back and get some advice from there. I know stores can't usually offer the best price deals but I think there's something to be said for building a bit of a relationship with a local shop too, or am I deluded? I've done a lot of reading on here and elsewhere on the web, but my head is spinning a bit with all the options available to be honest. I'll be putting a few chassis upgrades in at the start and running it with the Dingo body, at least until I've had a few tumbles and (hopefully) learned a bit. After that I'll change the links and get a nice hardbody for some scale fun. Some of your rigs on here are inspiring. I could do with some pointers regarding motors and ESCs though if possible, any other tips or advice will be gratefully received also obviously. Anyhoo - cheers.
  21. Well after a lot of reading, watching and thought I've decided on the SCX, but it's a close call. Ultimately, I know it won't be on its own for long so I'll be keeping an eye on the Vaterra anyway. Partly for my own pleasure I'm going to want to build some upgrades in from the outset, possibly shafts, metal links and some steering upgrades too, the usual stuff I guess. Motor-wise I'm not sure of the benefits of brushless over brushed in any case, let alone regarding crawling and tailing and the potential for getting wet. My knowledge of electrics is limited anyway and I've only just started tinkering with my RC collection after a 5 year break following the birth of my son. I didn't think it was fair to be playing with expensive 'toys' and not let him have a go - and my old SRBs wouldn't have appreciated being abused by a toddler! As a result the 'recent' developments in motors and lipos etc have passed me by to an extent. So, motor-wise again, I'm thinking something around a 30-40 turn to give me some wheel speed as well as low down control? But brushed or not? ESC, I've no idea, but waterproof ideally. Servo, again something stronger than it needs to be and waterproof. Lipo or Ni-MH, undecided, I haven't got any Lipos yet, but I have been thinking about investing in some new gear, so it's an option. Body wise, I like the Jeeps and the Dingo. Price wise, I like the Dingo! I'll be wanting to build/convert scale bodies too, but I'm guessing either kit will suit with the right links. I love the Defender hard bodies, I've wanted a Hilux forever and have a soft spot for XJs as I've owned a couple. Anyhow, feel free to offer more thoughts, suggestions and advice, cheers, John.
  22. Best to save and buy 'Hudy' or something similar, buy one at a time if easier - you won't need to replace them for years.
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