nitromotorhead

Agree, check that the idle speed is correct. During brake in its common to stall if set too slow.

Welcome to the forum!

You will also need to ensure that you have spare battery packs, and you keep them in your pocket or some other place worm as they do not like the cold. Another point to mention is don’t forget your hat, scarf and gloves!

I don’t use MT, don’t get on with the blend. Whilst I believe its all about mark up, MT is not actually that bad, its all about tuning to the fuel your using.

Follow the link http://www.brca.org/

welcome to the forum

mustang

Lets not forget that FOC is the long established term for ‘Free Of Charge’

Welcome to the forum!

Im a BF2 player!

Superb!

The savage is my truck of choice, I like the way it looks, its absolutely superb. Its performance and build quality are equally of an high standard. I bought the savage 4.6 SS Kit because I wanted to build it my self and have a big engine. If you’re after the RTR (Ready to run) 3.5 savage then maybe model sport will price match, last I understood thay give a discount to forum members anyway. They list it at £259, just ask them, to match £247, worth a try. If you do order from Modelsinmotion , thay are fast and reliable, I have experience with them. But hay, give modlesport opportunity to match or beat the price first!

Welcome to the forum! Hope you manage to complete your project, you have found a good community to help you along. You have probably realized by now, and don’t need anybody reminding you that building a kit from a magazine is not the best, quickest nor the cheapest option. Not to worry, the marketing these guys do is to blame for that lol. If things become difficult to obtain, then consider selling up and buy a complete car/ truck in kit form and you can build the model with all the parts in front of you and with good prospects of obtaining future parts / upgrades! What ever you do, don’t despair, if you stayed with you current project, and cant get the parts from the magazine issues, then they maybe an alternate, substitute part available ‘off the shelf’ in a model shop!!!

Hope this helps. Specifications for the Hitec 635 Karbonite geared servo Motor Type: 3 Pole Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing Speed: 0.18 / 0.15 sec @ 60 deg. English Metric Torque: 69.43 / 83.32 oz.in (4.8v/6v) 5.0 / 6.0 kg.cm Size: 1.59" x 0.77" x 1.52" 40.60 x 19.80 x 38.80mm Weight: 1.76oz 50.00g Specifications for the Hitec 643 Metal geared servo Motor Type: 3 Pole Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing Speed: 0.24 / 0.20 sec @ 60 deg. English Metric Torque: 106.93 / 133.31 oz.in (4.8v/6v) 7.7 / 9.6 kg.cm Size: 1.59" x 0.77" x 1.48" 40.60 x 19.80 x 37.30mm Weight: 1.94oz 55.20g As you can see the 645 has more torque than the 635, but the 635 is quicker. If you already have the 635, use for throttle, and then buy an higher torque servo for the steering. The more torque and speed the servo has the more you will pay! Personally Im using the Bluebird BMS660 MG+HS for the steering, its higher spec than the 645 ( the BMS660 MG+HS provides 15kg or torque). I can recommend the 645 for the savage its well suited for the job, and you wont be disappointed.

Upload your pics to a free host such as www.photobucket.com or www.rcpics.net Need to register with them first, its free. Then once uploaded to the host site, you can then post a link to the pic, or whilst composing your post use the add image option and use the image location link. Don’t worry, once uploaded with the host site, you will be provided with the link info to add onto your forum post. Hope that helps.

Welcome to the forum! This could be any number of things. Just few things for you to check initially Check that you’re not running too lean After it cuts out on you, on a jump, check to see if air bubbles are in the pipe, especially at the carb end. If there is. Check condition of pipeline and tank seals, if starting to split at the ends, cut back a 10mm or so. Check that the idle screw is set correctly, this should hold the carb open about 2.5mm- 3mm, depending on your model, at least sufficiently for a good idle. The linkage from servo to throttle should be set so that the idle screw is holing the carb open and not the servo/linkage. (This is the key element ) Example, If the idle screw is set too low, and it is the linkage or servo trim that has been adjusted to set a faster idle, then when the truck lands the vibration may allow the linkage to move back allowing the carb to close up to the idle set screw position, which if too low in the first place, engine will Stoll. So it is important to correctly set the idle screw for the correct idle, and not the trim/linkage. Nitro

Id always buy a Makita, for this. BUT It’s not so much the tool, (sander) it’s the heads, and compound you use as well as technique. Save your cash and do it by hand Just go with elbow grease

Please note I haven’t bothered to try this yet, as im happy with ff, but will do later, some time, however, If I try this safari, the cache will be empty when I load a page for the first time. So when comparing with existing browser that has already got part of the info stored, and just needs to refresh on load, is not a fair comparison. (Unless one bothers to clear all the info from the existing browser) Or have I just lost the plot! Anyone done a ‘proper independent’ bench mark on a real system!

It’s very hard to offer any help without seeing ‘first hand’ the problem. If you get chance, post a pic, more people will be able to post up more accurate help. However I will throw this into the pot for consideration. rap a lair of copper foil around the area the carb sits over, this will pad it out and provide something for the carb to be clamped down on, aiding a seal. I say copper tape, as I have a role of conductive adhesive backed copper tape next to me and immediately thought, that’s something id try.

Individual cars will vary, with the rush it’s not the fastest thing on the block but you will run out of space in a car park very quickly (35mph average est) On grass, (must be short) will be a bit slower. It also depends on gearing, if you want fast top speed or fast acceleration, iv tried them all. For the price the rush is a good place to start, and learn! Tuning a nitro engine is a little different than a mini moto

Eat Bananas!

Hi, hope this will help Instructions Link

Yes as said above, any servos work with the speci, however I do think that if you’re buying second hand, that £100 quid is a bit pricey, unless it’s in near perfect condition! And your budget is tight. I say this, because for £160ish you can get a brand new system that will come with 2 receivers and 2 servos, so you could sell one receiver and both servos to recoup some cash! Or just keep them, you will eventually find a use.

A good way is to ‘feel’ the changes, Pick it up and hold it, then very gently and slowly increase the revs, maintaining slow and steady progression. You should then feel it change twice, 1st to second and 2ed to 3ed .

Use some ‘0000’ Steelwool Start with some 00 or 0 Steelwool then move on to 0000 steel wool You could leave it at that, or polish up.