Mr Terminator

Cheers guys,i'm loving the Rush and Rush Evo's,never thought i'd fall for them in such a way,I was like most others and thought they were old and weak but still always liked the shell on them,I think its the best looking ST shell HPI have ever done,looks more realistically shaped than the Firestorm in my opinion.One thing they're not is weak,Laura's Rush Evo only has the uprated ball diff in it and thats never broke once,since that was fitted,I thought it blew the stock diff but turns out it was the slipper pad had worn out.. I think it's the way they handle the jumps that I like the most,they feel very stable in the air for a 2wd ST and are a cinch to work on,Laura wants the CF front and rear shock towers for hers next so thats what she's going for,I prefer alloy personally but she wants to keep the dark look about the chassis. Anyhoo.heres a few more pics of the upgrades and a few with the Silverado shell,ihe shell's missing most of the decals but it's only a basher shell anyway,I added some front lights and grill decals from the Desert Rat sticker sheet that they ship with the Baja 5b shell,pretty pointless really but came in handy anyway.... The engine after strip,clean and rebuild... The Silverado shell mock up before I fitted it and cut out the exhaust hole and rear access hole... The two rivals together... The dirty shot,nice new Rush Evo shells in the bag below,cheers Manny....

Very nice bud,not sure how long it would last in the looks department if it were mine but very nice nontheless.A tip for you here,try adding one of the bumper shock loops inbetween the rear bumper and the wing mount,it saves the wing if the truck wheelies and also acts as a carry handle,also check out my Revo thread in the Gallery Show Off for the rear wing mount strengthening mod,simple to do and stops the chassis getting damaged if you land on the rear wing,it bendsthe alloy chassis like tinfoil at the rear and snaps the rear shock tower at the hingepin covers,it would deffo snap that CF chassis or atleast delaminate it beyond repair....

Apology accepted,lighten up dude or maybe it's my sometimes not so funny sense of humour,anyway I bear no ill feeling towards you at all so lets leave it at that....

Get yourself a LRP Z.28R Spec 3 or Nosram RS.28 Evo,ideal engine for a basher,if you get the engines previosly mentioned you'll need a starterbox and batteries aswell as the engine itself as they don't have or accept a pullstart or rotastart and I take it you'd rather keep the starting option you have,also the engines mention in the previous post are race engines and therefore wear quicker than the engines I mentioned as tolerances are a lot higher.Its upto you bud but those two I recommend are great for bashing and have huge amounts of power,add a 18t clutchbell and you'll also have awesome top speed too....

When have I said I dislike you..? Trust me you'd know by now if that was the case,just because i've pointed out a few things in the past doesn't mean I dislike you,i've always conversed with you perfectly normally since you and I have been on here,so why you say that is a bit wierd,like I said,the dig was meant as banter,hence the laughing smilie or perhaps you need me to put (joking) for you to understand what I meant...

For a kick off it wasn't me who posted the info in the first place,so lose the attitude with me boy,mine was typically aimed as banter,if it's so true then why get so mardy about it.? It wasn't me who resorted to swearing and name calling so I suggest you stop being such a girl and take it in the manner in which it was meant,or I can show you some abuse of power if you like...

Yep,happy birthday guys....

Best way to quit is don't start in the first place,only then is it 100% effective..Anyway,thread is now closed as the member is banned....

Sounds more like a damaged servo,the Xtal either works or doesn't once it's damaged,you'd see more than the odd twitch if it was that,they only need an hairline fracture to completely change the frequency of which they operate so i'd check the servo firstly....

Bwhaaaaahaaahaahaaaaha,,Badger busted posting BS (not that it isn't unusual),thats a class find ando dude,banged to rights or the biggest coincidence i've heard in years,i'll let you decide....

No prison if you dispose of the body in the right way dude...

A tip I have is to make sure you locate the circlips properly in the bronze shock bush when building the shocks,if the outer one isnt located fully,the end of it scratches the shock shaft pretty badly after a few days usage and then leaks arrive and before you know it,new shafts are needed.Take your time and use the right threadlock in each instance,just enough to coat the threads,the red stuff is awesomely strong,I find it better than all the red threadlocks out there,even the 660 stuff I have isn't as strong as the little bottle of HPI red threadlock. Another thing to do is the engine mesh mod before fitting it,do the engine intake and exhaust vents and the pullstart vents in the inside of the pullstart cover... Other than that,enjoy and make sure you take short breaks at regular intervals,have a brewer upper and some snackage and all will be well at the end of the build....

Most threadlocks will return to liquid state once heats applied from a butane pencil torch,i've never had that fail yet,even on 660 industrial red threadlock,it liquifies at around 160C,only use heat on metal parts,never use it where metal goes into plastic or where heat can be transferred to plastic parts.I use the Torx bit method if I can get access easy enough,otherwise it's the owld rotary tool and cutting disc,thing is if you manage to get a Torx bit in and get the bit deep enough into the hex heads recess then it can be reused again without any issues,I only ever use 242 blue threadlock on the clutchbell screw,relatively easy to undo in cases like this....

I love the HPI starters,mines still going strong after 3 years,I have a 2100mah Shumacher one too thats good and a 1800mah Hobbytech that comes in some starter kits,thats my backup along with two D cell and an old Nicad one that I don't use at all.I was looking at the Team Magic starter,they look good but never used one...

I've had probably the roughest 3 years of my life,diagnosed with a rare genetic nerve disease,lost my house and buisness through it and the treatment is rough to say the least,with all that it has gotten much better over the last 8 months....

Hey guys,well here's the thread for the Nitro Rush I bought from Jerre (Dirty Electro).I got this a few months ago and while most of the upgrades had already been done by Jerre i've since been refining it for my likes.Firstly I got this along with a boat load of spares including a new chassis,rotastart in box with backplate,wheels and tyres,a Silverado shell never used, etc etc.I also bought a Rush Evo roller for spares and a brand new Rush Evo shell off Manny so between Laura and myself we have 2 brand new Rush Evo shells,a Silverado shell,Nitro Rush bashing shell,a brand new boxart spec Nitro Rush shell and enough spares to keep us going for a while. The Rush itself is about as upgraded as they get,all the major fault parts have been upgraded and also most of the HPI upgrades that are available for the Rush and Rush Evo.I've just finished by doing a brand new Nitro Rush shell,these are like rocking horse poo to find new and luckily enough I found one on Ebay,all the outlets online that list them have none left and as they are now discontinued and have been since 2005,I was lucky to find one new in the bag. The next things I plan on getting are some stiffer springs for the Firestorm shocks,now if you're familiar with the Firestorm you'll know that the stock springs are pretty soft,especially on the rear,i've got the fronts fitted with 45wt oil and stock springs but the rear is still sporting Hyper 7 front shocks with 45wt oil and stock springs which are about right for what I want,i'm trying to get it as close to Laura's Rush Evo in the suspension department,that's superb at handling the ruts and bumps offroad and has stock Rush Evo shocks on the front with 45wt oil and MTA4 with Rush Evo springs on the rear,again with 45wt oil. I also want to get the sway bar kit,again i've found a few on Ebay so a kit is on the list,HPI 100cc fuel tank,a set of 4 12mm alloy hexs,that'll do both mine and Laura's,a pair of CVD's with HD axles and a CF top deck,apart from that there isn't much I want,maybe a Nosram RS.18 Evo or a HPI T3.0 at some stage,she can easily handle the power as she has the uprated ball diff with carbide steel balls and the uprated tranny gears. Here's the list of mods that she has from stock... HPI HD Ball Diff with HD outdrives, Fastrax CNC tranny brace, GPM CNC bulkheads, GPM CNC front shock support, GPM Front and rear shock towers, HPI Firestorm shocks front and rear (rears yet to be fitted,Hyper 7 fronts on rear at the minute), Edit CNC front uprights, Edit CNC front knuckles, GPM CNC rear uprights, HPI Yellow 5 spoke rims, Proline Dirt Hawg tyres, Full ABEC3 Bearing kit, JE Spares stainless screw kit, (yet to be fitted), H.A.R.D. Shark Outlaw alloy tuned pipe for .12-.18 engines, HPI T-15 with port matched exhaust port and exhaust manifold, TTR No2 Sport plug, HD uprated 3mm engine plate, HT Torx engine screws, Fastrax exhaust coupler, Motorsaver airfilter, 15t HD vented clutchbell with ceramic bearings, 56t spur gear, HPI HD Alloy brake hub, HPI Fibreglass brake disc, JP Supertech throttle servo (4.5kg/cm torque), Ace 2008MG steering servo (8kg/cm torque,out of TTR ST-1), Traxxas Jato adjustable turnbuckles, HPI uprated steering turnbuckles, HPI Stainless steel hingepins, Extra front hingepin brace, Spektrum SR300 RX, 1500mah Hump pack fitted, 5mm bright yellow fuel tube, HPI Purple alloy fuel filter... That's all the mods it has,as you can see it's highly modded,the Firestorm shocks,stainless hingepins,screwkit,extra brace,3mm Rush Evo engine plate,Rush Evo manifold and Shark pipe,1500mah humpack,both servos and the RX and 56t spur were all fitted by me aswell as the new T-15 carb,it had a Colt alloy bodied carb on it and it wasn't fueling right at the bottom end,it also had a 52t spur on it which made it even worse on the bottom end,preformance on top end is awesome but I haven't tested it since fitting the T-15 carb,it's the later composite bodied carb too which I prefer. I'll update the thread as I go as per usual,I much prefer this to the Havoc,simply because it's nicely balanced and it's getting to be a pretty rare model in this condition and parts aren't as bad to get as first thought.i'll buy another Rush Evo roller at some point and another set of wheels and tyres,the yellow rims and Dirt Hawgs will be used for bashing as will the Silverado shell,i'm staying with the new shell for show and light use only.Anyway,below are the pics and they speak better than words can so hope you like her..... This is when I got her along with the spares... ...and as she is now..

Cheers for that Mark,I was informed of that way on Revoworld,seems they have BS on there too then hey... I'm not sure what i'm gonna do yet,been looking at the Picco.26 JL Red Dot and for the money,

Jammin JP-3 or for maximum effect a Hong Nor PI-810....

I'd go for the pullstart version,its a lot easier to break in,the EZ Start struggles with the Picco.26 when new and fails to turn them over.Once it's broken in you can use your EZ Start with the pullstart version,just remove the pullstarter and add the EZ Start gearbox,it's that easy and then you have the best of both worlds....

I suffer from bouts of it,all due to the illness I have,not to the extent of using strong Anti Depressants,only used light ones but I tend to just get on with it these days,i'm n enough meds without taking more.The wife suffered for years with it and was on Seroxat for 7 years,took her the best part of 18 months to be weened off them and is now on Gamonil instead but she uses less and less these days.Theres depression and then theres whining,far to many people are whiners in my opinion but the ones who do genuinely suffer from depression have my sympathy,I know Mark does (Hoss) we've had a few conversations about it in the past....

Go engines run on the hot side anyway but all engines will run at higher temps during the break in,the tighter they are,the hotter they get.Once it's been broken in and loosened up fully,the temps should settle down,all the Go engines i've had in the past ran comfortably at around 265F-270F once they've settled in properly,I used Go No3 on break in.Do check the carb inlet and backplate for airleaks too,just as a precaution,as soon as you can,try a medium/cold plug and see if that makes any difference and try longer runs somewhere you can open the engine up to maximise air flow,pottering a race engine around a garden at what can only be slow speeds will cause heat build up also....

They're a 1/10th scale,about the size of a MGT 3.0/TTR Hammer S18.For the money they're a great truck and very well proven,they're just a rebadged Hot Bodies Lightning GT10.The daughter wants the MT as her next nitro,the only drawback is the 75cc fuel tank,i'd have liked to have seen a 100cc/110cc fitted in there for the revamp...

I'm running blue's on the rear and silver up front with 50wt in the fronts and 60wt in the rears,try upping the oil weight Mark,30wt is a little light for the Revo I think,I found mine loads better once i'd upped the oil weight.I sometimes run with Green rear and orange front but find it too soft for big jumps but awesome for generally track use like BMX tracks and the likes....