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dexterslab

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    HPI Trophy 3.5 - HPI Baja 5B SS

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  1. had the same problem on my ss after i found the back end wanted to pogo on jumps, added more preload and swapped out the oil for 15wt, the HPI oil is only
  2. i've been having an ongoing problem with my etronix exg3 pro radio system i use in my baja ss where it keeps failsafing but the only way to recover it is to power cycle the receiver. If i switch off the radio it will failsafe and just recover when the power / signal returns. At first i thought it might have been a battery failsafe, but at a bash on sunday we charged the rx pack (hpi plazma 6v 4300mah) and it still kept on doing it with the pack well over 6v. Tx batteries a good too. has anyone else had any clitching problems like this with either the etronix pulse or the core code (they are the same unit)?
  3. rear assembly and engine attached to chassis last night whole thing is looking very very tasty ...which reminds me i need to pickup some orange paint for the shell
  4. thanks guys, lotsa good tips... build is progressing, diff and gearbox was completed tonight
  5. hi everyone, over the weekend i splashed out and bought a Baja 5B SS kit and i'm currently working through the build. Have built a few models over the years but this is the biggest if anyone has any tips before i start the more complex stuff it would be handy to know!!
  6. sorry for not replying in this thread for ages... i've given away the nanda to a friend who might fix her up, it seemed to me the model was just too fragile plus i have a new toy
  7. i have a HPI F3.5 engine here out of a HPI Trophy, after cursing at it trying to get it started for over an hour a few weeks ago i swapped it out for a new engine. Without a plug in it i can turn it over with my fingers, with the engine in bits the piston certainly doesn't push all the way through the sleave, i can push it to within a couple mm of the top of the sleave. So there is some pinch there at least I also noticed that the play in the conrod big-end bushing is a bit more than the new engine so having never rebuilt a nitro engine before (only ever done full sized engines!) i'm not sure what tolerances are acceptable so any advice would be appreciated cheers
  8. hmm, maybe the driveshafts on the swift 2 are stronger than the mk1... yours looks like it's seen plenty of action too this is what mine looks like after two tanks of fuel:
  9. is this the season for swift rebuilds or something? be interesting to see if the diff went the same way as mine what condition are the driveshafts in? mine seems to be going through them at a rapid rate
  10. cvd on mine dont suppose the bodyshell & wing are available? tbh i'd prefer the body over the shafts & diff
  11. either front or rear diff, all the driveshafts are the same if you split the UJ... i'd need a pair
  12. diff, outdrives and driveshafts, i'll probably lunch them in double time with all the power going through the rear!
  13. finished it enough to run it... was a bugger to keep running, was and still is running way too rich, after a little tweaking it started to run better, is great fun being rwd: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBWC7ZK88kM swift is on the left, with the hpi trophy on the right
  14. got a lot done yesterday, including: through bolting the front gearbox screws which were threaded. removed the bad gears from the rear diff into the centre diff and araldited it all up, so i have a spare set of good diff gears moved the front diff and driveshafts to the rear removed and cleaned the shocks remounted the engine, both gearboxes, fuel tank, receiver box and engine
  15. bits have started arriving in the post and i've started putting everything back where it should be. i think the plastics that nanda use are made of chocolate, have found a few stripped self-tapper threads that i'll probably drill out and use M3 bolts instead. The engine mount bolts were also round holes instead of hex thanks to the previous owner . Still didn't take long to get them off with use of the dremel. Also found some stripped threads on the alloy top suspention mount i'll need to through bolt with an M3 nyloc... why is it people cant use allen keys and screwdrivers properly? FFS!
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