voorsk

Bit of an update.. The snow seemed like something that couldn't be missed, and I wanted to do some crawling with my son, so I switched the RX in the Sumo for the Reely thing that came with my FS Racing SCX. Originally, both the SCX and Sumo were bound to my FlySky GT3C, so only I could use them. Bit selfish of me! We found out a few things on the crawl through the snowy park.. The rear axle needed it's gear replacing, as it would often only use one wheel, and consequently get stuck. It can keep up with the SCX in a straight line. 😮 The servo isn't snow-proof, and presumably not waterproof, either. It packed in after 15 minutes. Dogs and toddlers prefer the sumo. 🐶 No photos, I'm afraid. It's too tricky to do while tying to stop an 11-year-old from driving an RC car like a foot-seeking missile. Since then, I've upgraded the servo in the SCX, and put it's old servo into the Sumo. More power, and more waterproof! 😀 The rear driveshaft did not want to play nice when I went to put in the new all-metal gear. It seems that it's bent up a bit around the holes where the hexes attach, so the bearings can't get past without significant leverage. I had to cut up the axle covers, then decided I should replace the driveshaft, too. I'm still waiting for those parts. Still no 3D-printed grille, as the slight curve in the shell is proving hard to recreate. I have found a cheap way of getting lenses for the lights, however. 👍

I swapped the RX today, and noticed a label attached to the motor wires that said to change the motor if using a LiPo?! 😯 I'm assuming no-one else has bothered to change motor. Why would it say to do that? Really bad translation for 'change ESC setting'?

It has arrived! First thing I did was remove the side stickers, altho I should probably have tested it first. Thankfully, it also drives okay! 🙄 And here it is with the rest of my 1/10 family: I do like a pickup. 😀 I have a HW1080 and a 20kg Power HD servo on order, but they were intended for the SCX. The 1040 and the servo from the SCX were then going to go into the FTX. I guess I'll stick with the ARC-1 and see how it goes. The RX is definitely getting swapped, as that massive remote is ridiculous! Other things.. metal wheels, make up some LEDs, get a metal steering link, maybe give it a respray.

dammit, guys - I wasn't supposed to buy any more crawlers! Now, thanks to this thread, I've gone and bought a Coyote 2.1 RTR. 😬

usually, you would plug LEDs into the receiver, not the 1080. that's the easiest option. what receiver does it have? it sounds like there is an option to plug them into the 1080 (i don't have one), but it might require a tweak to it's output voltage. that could be tricky, and risks blowing something up if you get it wrong

That's all the excuse I needed! I'd been tempted to trim the arches, but was worried I'd wreck it. I trimmed them up to the next angle change, which was about 5mm all around, and trimmed a couple of notches from the body posts. It now sits just above the original bumpers and accomodates full flex! 😀 The cuts are awful, tho. I need to tidy it up with the dremel and spray on a bit more black to cover the scratches. glad that's sorted out, tho!

I know - I did that, once I'd made sure it wasn't anything else. I had to reverse throttle, too. 🙂 My current quandary (as I put off the boring 3D work) is the height of the body posts, which seems a bit crazy. To accomodate full flex, it looks like this: Is there such a thing as too much flex? For scale, should I limit the flex a bit? It did come in useful when I was driving it around my driveway, and it made it up the steps to the front door (which my SCX can't do!), but maybe that kinda thing is better left to rock crawlers..

Yup - no diff! I was confused by the ability to turn the wheels separately, but that turned out to be the whole problem - the plasic part of the ring gear had almost completely rounded out. New gears fitted and greased, new body posts fitted (as expected, it's gone a bit too monster truck), and servo properly attached. I've made some lights, but I haven't made anything to fit them with, so I need to get onto designing a 3D model for the front grille. It's both exciting and daunting, and I haven't had the headspace to do it lately. oh yeah, and the tyres are now facing the right direction. 😛

I've got some of that stuff for greasing pedals, but I use lithium grease for almost everything else bike-related, so I have a lot spare. I already used it on my FTX Mini, so it's good to know I didn't make a mistake by using it to grease RCs. 🙂

Had to google that. 🙂 I may do.. the gears and whatnot are the parts of RC cars that I don't have much knowledge of. One of the reasons I wanted a doer-upper was so that I can take the drivetrain apart without worrying too much about ruining it. SC said the outer rings were worn out, so it'll require new drive units, which seem to be the same thing as drive spools? I'm going to try locking up the diffs first, then if it's awful I'll fix the front diff, and if it's still awful I'll fix the back.

Hiyaa! I dunno if build threads are a thing in this forum, but I thought I'd have a crack at one while I make mods to my new project; an FTX Outback 2. I bought it via the Wanted ads, and it was missing a shell, wheels, battery, and controller. I knew I'd be replacing most of those parts, so wasn't too bothered by that. This is what I started with (with wheels from my SCX): First thing to do was get it running, which meant swapping the connector for an XT60, pairing my FS-GT3C to the RX (handy that it's the correct type!), and getting some hexes for the wheels so that it can actually move them. I also ordered a Proline Sumo shell, some beadlocks, and some tyres while I was at it. 🙂 An annoying wait later, and it was running! Backwards. Everything was reversed? I thought maybe I'd wired it up wrong, but the steering was backward, and that's a direct link to the RX, so I guess it's just how it was designed. I've moved the ESC and battery trays back to their original positions, with the ESC tray raised on standoffs to allow the suspension to go as far as it likes. The battery now sits on the ESC tray. Next up was painting the shell. I thought it might be easier than the Chevy C10 that I'd done previously, but boy was I wrong! Soooo much masking... but it turned out alright, I think: My current task is to get the shell sitting properly. I think it must've been designed for an Outback that hasn't had it's suspension freed up, because at full twist, the wheels hit the body. It's going to look more like a monster truck if I raise it any higher, so maybe the arches need a trim. I've got something of a to-do list: Do something about the body posts / wheel arches Attach the servo horn properly (I forgot it needs a screw to keep it in place on the servo) Put the wheels on the right way around Wire up some lights (waiting on the postie) Find a shadey sticker for the sunroof (had a slight masking accident, so need to hide it) Lock the diffs (they're a bit worn out, so it can't do much harm to try locking them) Create a 3D model of the front grille and light recesses. Maybe the arches, too. Not sure what to do about the lenses. Lego? Print and fit the above. Continue making it more 'scale'. 😀 oh, one other thing I wanted to do was replace the steering link, so it bends around the diff casing. An obvious choice would be the linkage from an RGT v3, but they don't seem to sell spares just yet. I suspect the v1 linkage would be too narrow. 🤔

Case closed! Bought the above. Currently in the process of taking it apart, so might be back here if I can't put it back together. 😛

just needs a bit of tlc? PMed

Hiya! I gave my SCX10.2 a bit of a drive yesterday, and I've found that coming to a stop feels really off. As I'm used to driving without an ESC brake, it could just be me, or it's something everything does, or maybe it's an actual problem. I thought I'd check. 🙄 What hapens is that I'll be merrily trundling along, then need to stop, so I release the trigger and it near-enough does an endo, followed by it rocking back and forth hard on the spot and shaking the shell with a worrying noise. Coming to an immediate stop seems like an ESC/driver thing? Either I need to learn to ease off instead of let go, or I need to program a braking curve. Maybe fixing the next problem will make it feel less like an issue... It's the way it rocks back and forth that's most worrying. I measured an inch of total play when rocking it against a flat surface, which seems like a lot. The wheels aren't loose, and the driveshafts don't move while it rocks, so I guess the play is in the diff? Is this something that's expected from crawlers, or is something wrong? 😕

30 minutes from me, but looks like a nice place. I'd be interested, but beware; I'm a complete noob to rc!

that'd be cool. sounds like just the sort of thing I'm after; a bit of a project. 🙂

Hi! Has anyone got an FTX Outback 2 or RGT equivalent that they want to sell? Not too worried about body condition, or the RX/TX, but could do with the other parts. 🙂 Thanks!

I thought the 2.1 Coyote kit was already out? edit: holy heck - you're right! I thought the current kit was a 2.1, but it's not. I nearly bought that! 😮 I'm not sure if themodelhut are the same people as Nitrotek, but it seems likely. Just a quick leap over the peak district! Trustpilot reviews aren't great, but I had no probs. No idea what their customer service is like, as I'm not gonna get any money back after all the messing I've done to mine. 🙂

If you go the FS Racing Crawler route, I bought my FS from themodelhut, as they've got a 10% off promotion which makes it cheaper than buying from Nitrotek. 🙂 https://www.themodelhut.co.uk/fs-racing-110-scale-rc-rock-crawler-with-pc-body-shell-91-p.asp

I'm in the FS Crawler club. It's a pre-buyout SCX10.2 RTR, so pretty bargain-tastic. I do still like the look of the Coyote 2.1, tho. *pretend this bit has an image of a bloke walking along with his SCX-headed girlfriend, looking behind at a Coyote going the other way*

I knew the Reely connection thanks to the various threads about it on this forum. Just thought it was weird that Nitrotek didn't get a look-in, apart from the box. It certainly doesn't matter now, anyway, as I've got the new shell on; Despite some ropey masking and a grille and 'fender' that don't seem to be designed for the body, it's come out quite well, I think. 🙂 I'm still pondering if it needs any more of the included decals, and if the chrome should stay chrome. I think gunmetal might be better.

Looks good! I haven't painted my new shell, yet, but it's got it's new shoes on; I also switched the rx for an AFHDS (not A2) so I can use my GT3C with it. Weirdly, mine has Free Men decals, despite coming from Nitrotek. Probably a mix up at the factory.

A not-quite-a-SCX10.2. It was smaller in my head.

oh, cool. i would have bought a body anyway, tbh. i was just trying to justify it to myself. 🙂

That's certainly good advice, but I just don't like blanked out windows, so I've bought some gmade SR04 wheels, some Austar AX-4020 tyres, and an Axial 67 Chevy C10 shell. I'm already £35 overbudget, and I haven't upgraded any electronics yet! It will look sweet as it struggles to steer, tho. 😀