Scottyb

That's bad advice. 

First, there's no power settings on ESCs. I assume  you refer to punch settings, which is something different. Second, HW ESCs are always current limited. Some Castle ESCs have modifiable current limits, but not all of them. The XLX for example does have an adjustable limiter, hence being one of the go-to ESCs for (top end) speed running, whereas HW ESCs cut out at some point. On the flipside, they have issues with ripple current, leading to premature death and the nickname "Castle Cremations". 

The C rating of the battery doesn't limit anything, unless by "limiting" you mean "if it caught fire you've drawn too much". Current draw is determined by the motor, the ESC tries to deliver that, if the batteries aren't able to supply that power there's no limiting, but damage. Inevitably. If the batteries are able to deliver, but the motor draws more than the ESC can handle (150A in case of the MT2+), the ESC blows up. You can draw 300A no problem even in smaller monster trucks, let alone a 1/7th running 1/8th electrics. 

The Max8 in that truck can handle 150A continuous, or 950A peak (peak = less than 0.5 seconds). How much current a motor draws is determined by motor size, kv, truck weight, wheel size/weight, gearing and more, all increasing the load on the motor. The more you load it, the more it draws. The truck weighs roughly 18lbs with batteries (almost 5lbs more than a Kraton), running a small 2000kv can. I very much wouldn't run that at max punch settings. While it is somewhat low geared (top speed around 45mph iirc?), i still wouldn't risk it. 

Leave it default, if you need more punch (which i doubt due to the low gearing) get a temp gun and monitor temps on ESC, motor and batteries. If you have some room to play with in regards to temps, step it up one step at a time. Just note that it doesn't get faster with higher punch settings, it just "accelerates" harder. Which in regards to monster trucks doesn't change anything, since you just wheelie anyway, even in stock settings. Once the front comes down and you can accelerate freely, you're already out of the region where punch settings change something. I'm running a stupendously overpowered 6s EXB with my MMX 8s, i'm pretty familiar with punch settings (as well as diffing out and ultimately exponential throttle) in relation to monster trucks. 

All you'll get with higher settings is that you get bigger pizza cutters (diffing out after unloading the tyres due to the wheelie), leading to damaged tyres, damaged diffs, bent driveshafts etc. Definitely not worth it. 

You certainly chose an appropriate username @m4inbrain 😄
The car is coming with the stock ESC on it which is a Quicrun WP-8BL150 which i'll be using on 4S for a bit, I am familiar with the settings on the hobbywings in regards to punch etc and wouldn't run it at max anyway having done it briefly on my Hyper Vse and making a crown gear nice and smooth 😂.

@Scottyb make sure you do a thread for the new truck when you get it 👍🏼, I've been eyeing the Hobao MT Plus II for some time now.!! Let us all know how it is.

I have to ask, are the 120c 8000s you have, are they the hardcase CNHL's ??

I'm asking because I don't believe they are all that good (punch wise) I have the 120c  5600's and also have the pink G+'s which are 70c 5000's yet they are far more punchy, nothing in it runtime wise..