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Hi Ordered a set of HD steering blocks using the upgrade program. You get 3 steering blocks for free and cover postage yourself. I’ve ordered the new Ackerman plate brace and upgrade 7075 centre chassis stiffener while I’m at it. Video of the new blocks shows them to be stronger than the leading competition’s part, whoever that may be haha. Hope you all get yours soon! Cheers Steve

Hi Budget wise I was thinking RTR upto £500 with batteries or kit £350, plus tyres and electronics taking it towards £600. Happy to be in a lower price bracket if the performance and reliability can be found. Now I’ve written that down, it sounds a lot for a starter, but rc prices look to be climbing, ho hum! I had a nitro Revo many years ago, it was a pain to maintain due to its relative complexity, so no Summit for me, haha. I recently built a kit, which was great fun and the end result quite rewarding, maybe that would be the way to go, just which one. Been watching Element Ecto videos today, Capra videos yesterday and I’m still non the wiser. I’m sure bad driving would make more difference than the vehicle itself, so something reliable out of the box, with good tyres, is probably the way I need to be looking? Thanks again all! Cheers Steve

Hi Stimpy Well said that man! I had no idea that there were so many variations. No competition for me, just the quarries, woods and castle to conquer. Mud, puddles and rocks to negotiate. We have no idea where we fit into the hierarchy, but it looks tougher than trail to me, so crawling it is? I’d love something like in the picture above, but have no idea if it’ll be something that truly interests us, until we have a go. Just don’t want to start with something that can’t perform no matter what, so as to give things a chance! Does the Capra cut it at that level and how do cars like the Gmade BOM compare? Others to consider like Element, Traxxas or ftx? Still not after scale looks really, but wouldn’t rule it out if that is how the correct vehicle come though. Thanks all for the pointers thus far! Cheers Steve

Hi I mention the VS4-10 as it looks really capable and doesn’t seem to topple over like most of the scale cars I have watched on YouTube. I don’t want to get into the scale detail though, which I know that I would, should I get a scale lookalike. I wouldn’t want to scratch it. It looks like a Capra or R1, or other, could be made completely, with decent upgrades to power plant and tyres, for the kit price of the VS4-10 too? You used to be able to find 1/1 off-road trials on Sky at one time, where the Unimog was king and the Suzuki jeep showed the Landrovers where to go, haha. I’m watching too much on YouTube and getting confused that’s all, a sign of old age no doubt! Cheers Steve

Well Our main bash spot is about to become a building site, so the numerous local woods and quarries are starting to draw our attention. Best that we can work out, speed is quite easy, but crawling is not straightforward. Our starting point is an Axial Capra or Gmade R1, other than loving the look of the VS4-10, is their much point in looking further than that, with a few mods maybe, or is there a better option? Performance is king here, we’re not looking for scale detail. Reviews don’t make anything look standout as far as we can see, tyres seem important too, so any input is much appreciated. Cheers Steve

Hi Can you post a video of the problem? It could be anything from incorrect binding of radio, seized bearings or incorrect gear mesh, a video would help a lot. Cheers Steve

Hi All the parts on all of the XTR are V2 or better, the pictures on the website are wrong, Kings Lynn Models checked this when I bought mine. Parts like the front upper hinge pin brace and chassis braces are further upgraded to alloy rather than V2 plastic. The V2 service pack gives you a host of spare parts though, all the same as fitted standard to the XTR and other V2 cars, though some are not up to XTR spec. Unfortunately, the CVD’s are at risk when the pillow balls pop, 2 out of 9 or 10 times for me. My first wing shattered like glass on first impact, Corally replaced it under warranty and it’s survived since. The replacement feels much more flexible than the original. I don’t accept the “bad batch of steering knuckles”, I’ve gone through too many for it to be pot luck, they’re all bad IMHO. Maybe the new batch, using the original part number but an improved material, are better? You have no idea if you have them though! No, I won’t be spending any more money on pot luck, buying the original parts, it’s pointless. The definition of stupidity is repeatedly doing the same thing, expecting the outcome to be different. When the re-designed parts arrive, I’ll be obtaining and fitting them if I can, then the Achilles Heel of the Kronos should be history, fingers crossed. Corally have no control over the current global supply issues though, so it looks like we’ll have to wait I’m afraid. Until then, hopefully they send you enough parts to get you back up and running and keep things that way for much much longer this time. Cheers Steve

I think that “Basherqueen” sells a carbon fibre riser for the centre diff housing, so that bigger motors fit?

Hi Well that saves you choosing something else then, haha! Are they sending you the re-designed steering knuckles, or just ones in the stronger material, I’d be interested to hear how they perform? Arrma pivot balls didn’t help mine in any measurable way. I think you would need to change all of the assembly, knuckles, hexes, hybrid driveshaft, and steering rod ends as “rc guy garage” did, to get a reliable Arrma fix. I priced it up but decided to wait see what Corally would do? I know they care, but waiting sucks! Best of luck. Cheers Steve

Hi I feel your pain! At the beginning of September Corally said to me via email “the reinforced knuckles made from the new compound are available now and still have the same ordernumber. We have been shipping these improved Knuckles for a week now. The newly designed knuckles should be available end of this month.“ I asked how I would know if supplied the original style knuckles, that they were of the improved compound, as they have the same part number as the originals, but had no reply. I doubt that there is an improved compound as a result. I think they just want people to accept that there was a batch/tolerance issue in production, rather than it being a poor design? Until the new design part arrives, my Kronos will remain broken on the shelf as I have no steering knuckles left, bought 7, Corally sent me 2 and the originals later, I’m not putting more money into the old style part. Yet I still maintain that when working, the Kronos is great! I’d love to know why some suffer this and some don’t? Once again, hope you get everything sorted and let us know what you do next! Cheers Steve Steve

Hi The Kronos is a great performing rc when the steering is in one piece, shame it’s so weak at the moment. Whatever route you take, hope it works out better than this! Cheers Steve

Hi Sorry to hear this. The broken CVD is most likely due to over articulation when the pillow balls pop, it’s happened to me twice, as have the steering rod ends. On most occasions though, it’s just been the balls popping. I’m sure, at least I really hope, that the upgraded steering knuckles will sort this, though they are still just a notion! Is it going to be a Hyper ST then? Best of luck. Steve

Hi I gave my a check over before I ran it and only had to fill the diff’s as they lacked oil. At the time, some were reporting that the grub screws on the front and rear diff outdrives had no thread lock, mine were OK though. Everything else was good. The front springs sagged after all of the first few runs, but we’re replaced under warranty without question. The hard springs supplied for front and rear, have been perfect. I keep thinking that I might try running hard front medium rear springs, but never seem to get around to it. At the same time as the springs, Corally sent me a replacement rear wing as the early cars had a bad batch, a pair of steering knuckles and 3 pots of diff oil. Customer service is good IMHO. The front tyres balloon, a lot, with 100k in the centre diff, I only have 300k and 1 million on the shelf, one of which will get a try one day. My advice is go thicker than standard straight away, I’m certain it will be an improvement. Known issues apart, the Kronos is great. Enjoy Steve

Hi My opinion of course, but based on what has broken my XTR, without perfect landings or the promised upgraded parts fixing the weak steering blocks, the Kronos will break doing 12 to 15 ft jumps. It drives superbly, but in their current form are more race truck than skate park basher. Fingers crossed, that will be sorted next week, but I doubt even then that it will be reliable coming down from 12 to 15 feet? I do watch people give these are hard time, bigpoppapaul for example, and they must be much better drivers than me, as they look to have few issues. Cheers

Hi Scottyb I’ve had an XTR since April. It really is a great rc when it’s working and other than the pillow balls is quite reliable. My chassis is perfectly straight and the body still in decent nick, and there is a spare body included. The pillow balls can pop in very minor tumbles, but they also take some big hits without breaking, you just don’t know? I don’t do big jumps or skate park bashing with it. I’ve tried Arrma pivot balls but it made no difference for me. Other than steering blocks, which have to be changed once a ball pops out, popping pillow balls has caused bent front driveshafts, cracked cvd’s and broken steering rod ends. Not every time, just on 2 occasions. The only other things have been wheel bearings due to getting wet, a leaking front shock, shattered wing and drooping front springs. The wing and springs were replaced under warranty. I don’t think that’s a great deal of issues in the time I’ve had it. I recently had an email from Corally saying that new steering blocks are using an improved material and are no longer considered to be weak, though they retain the same part number so you have no idea if you are getting the “better” parts or not! They added that there is a redesigned part coming at the end of September, but these have been “6 to 8 weeks” away since the end of April so I’m not holding my breath for those. If or when Corally deliver the stronger steering blocks, the Kronos will be a solid and reliable RC. The Kronos is great but has a weakness. When it’s fixed it’ll just be great! Cheers Steve

Hi A servo like the one listed on eBay bellow should be suitable. That is providing the receiver is OK. 25kg servo Cheers Steve

Servicing the 1:1 cars this weekend got in the way of a first off-road run, but got to have a car park shakedown. Its a bit of a wheelie monster and with the 15 tooth pinion looks to be in the 40-45 mph range. It turned on a sixpence and handles very well, cornering looks flat with no sign of traction rolling. A fair bit of nose dive on braking, but that’s probably accentuated on tarmac and might need the esc adjusting once on dirt? Need to fit a dust cover but ordered the wrong size, measured the sides at 29cm but they run too close to the rear arms for Velcro to fit, so need the next cover down in size, M rather than M+ in Dusty Motors covers. Thanks again for the “likes”. Cheers Steve

Thanks for the likes and comments! Everything about the kit is quality, and other than 1 random Torx screw in bag “A”, for which I had a suitable spare, it all went together perfectly. The colour looks better in real life, imho, and I’m pleased with it for a first attempt. I used a liquid masking, which for me worked very well. All I can hope for now is that it performs as well as its reputation suggests! Just need the Manchester weather to cooperate. Cheers Steve

Hi I’ve been debating getting a race truggy for a while now, but had my head turned by the MT410. It can be converted to a truggy if I need to? It’s the first kit that I have built and as in the title, had never painted a bodyshell before. We have a Max8 2200kv combo, 15 tooth pinion, DS3235 servo with alloy horn, alloy top and bottom shock caps, Backflip LP’s and an M2C Racing core of braces and body supports. Waiting in the wings is a steel spur, but I’m going to wear out the composite one first while I decide on gearing. I only have 4s batteries so that is all it will be used with. Sprayed the body with Tamiya Copper backed with Bright Silver and black for the arches, grille and bed. Decided on silver windows as the shell has been dry wall taped and glued. I’m hoping that it can be bashed alongside our Rival MT10 without breaking too much, the Kronos struggles to do that. Here are a couple of pictures, before it gets dirty for the first time!

OMG, that’s another 6-8 weeks before any prospect of order/delivery! I contend that the original hubs are weak and prone to failure. Thanks for your help Darren!!

Hello The 6-8 weeks has just about passed, impatient as I am! Is there any news about the stronger steering parts, I don’t do social media so have to ask for help. The Kronos has been behaving recently though. Sorry to be a pain. Cheers Steve

Provisionally sold.

Hi The proceeds from this are to go towards buying a truggy kit, as I want to build a car from scratch for once. I have all of the electronics ready to go, so I’m not looking for trades, sorry! Thanks for the interest and please let me know if you have any suggestions for me to consider. Cheers Steve

Hello A couple of questions about these conversions, if I may. The required wider Mugen MBX6T side guards appear to be with the remaining Unicorn’s, so is there an available alternative, MBX7T or 8 maybe? Is this https://www.wish.com/c/5e980a478a8fe73e79cb8600?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=GB&_force_currency_code=GBP&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5e980a478a8fe73e79cb8600&ad_cc=GB&ad_curr=GBP&ad_price=13.00 a suitable motor mount for STPro electric conversion? Cheers Steve

Pre eBay bump.