Redback
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Posts posted by Redback
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fb bargain, t100 dual charger, 2x 5000mha overlander lipos
i dont run xt60 so had to make a bunch of adaptors for charging the other lipos.
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used to 3d print unu clips, for my motors and cables.
theres a uk guy Bigfoot Customs UK that does similar 3d printed UUU cable clamps. Check them out perhapse.
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Rossa Rnd1 2023
Incase you missed it, new WR from the man himself.
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8 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:
On the Axe system is the sensor cable ports waterproof ?
Yes, they made a big hum har about their proprietary port or lack there of fusion has no sensor port, axe sensor has a unique plug, axe v1 and v2 have different plugs so you cant use an axe v1 motor with a v2 esc.
3 hours ago, RC4WD fan said:You do like to make your TRX4 swim though don’t you ? that’s not for me just a little wet mud is about all I can tolerate 🤣 but if these don’t work out or last longer I’ll look at getting something with a long warranty don’t mind paying more money for one I’m trying to get the best electrics I can afford for the TRX4 👍
If you want the best servo, you might want to look at the holmes hobbies 4/3s servos, they pack some serious power for some big money.
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9 hours ago, Grogg said:
Thanks for the info. I bought 4 body shells for the challenge I'm doing with mates to build a TT-02 that goes over 100mph.
Any plans of reinforcing the body shell? I'm considering doing it, a number of the speed runners that I've been watching on YouTube who are are getting over 100mph seem to do it, that Australian Youtuber Stew Mac I think he's called, he also posts over on the Tamiya club forum, in the speed section, does it with carbon fibre, on his channel and a thread on the Tamiya club he shows you how he does it, in the thread he explains why, others I've seen use reinforcement tape, dry waller tape and shoo goo.
No I got a 2mm thick body for that exact reason, it doesnt need reinforcing its thick enough to take impacts and not flex under load.
The issue is stopping the body mounts flexing as the body and car are pushed into the floor from downforce.
I have used normal tc bodies and fiberglass tape in the past, but thats just to make them last a bit longer, doesnt stop the flex or parachuting that can occur on the thinner body shells. -
9 hours ago, MAZ said:
Is that an extra mounting point? If it is, did you use it? If so, was it easy to drill that chassis in the correct place?
Yes, yes & yes 🙂
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On 05/05/2023 at 01:15, Grogg said:
What body shell or shells have you got for it, if you don't mind me asking?
The only shell i intend to run is the delta plastic porche shell, shown in the images. Its very heavy and 2mm thick.
Would have cost over 100£ if imported, managed to snag the last one on modelsport.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/1349081 -
can you reset the esc?, hold the button and turn it on it will chirp, try disconnecting a motor wire any chirps?
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Felt rude to not take her for a walk
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Result brother, good to hear! Send it 😄
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14 minutes ago, Grogg said:
You can get custom spur gears made to any pitch and tooth count you want, and it is nowhere near as expensive as it sounds.
Indeed but theres no need when any 5mm bore pinion will fit, thus making any pinion a spur gear, thus saving the need for any custom cuts.
As you can see here i have a small pinion as a spur in the rs4 to see if it works.I did the same with the banzai even popped mod 1 in there.
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Stick 8s in your hyper, it will take it.
My 20 year old hyper has a max 6 motor and 8s esc 😄 its scary.On 21/04/2023 at 20:45, Grogg said:I'm considering treating myself to a ready to run, so far I've got one kit RC that I'm finishing off, 1 almost ready to run that I've got running, and another kit to build, so nothing that's been ready to use out the box. One of the reasons for this is that I'm really enjoying the building and tweaking side of things, but the other reason, is that I've yet to find a ready to run that I like the looks of. The two that interest me the most, the HPI Savage X Flux V2, is one of them, but I don't like the body shell, the other is the Arma Kraton 6S, but I really hate the body shell for this one. Does anybody know if there are aftermarket body shells, beside the clear versions or different colours of the stock version, available for either of these models.
You can put the kraton shell on the hpi i think, didnt kev do it to his HPI Savage?
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3 hours ago, Peddars said:
Castle cremations ? Not heard that one 🤣. So what combo would you suggest to run on a 6s lipo ?
Castle Mamaba Monster X (Stick with what you got, if it melts (doubt it) then just move up.
Castle are solid and have excellent warrenty and service, unless you have had really bad experiences yourself, i would ignore the very few vocal haters, theres many a happy castle customer.
Kevins esc's went for specific reasons, wrong windings, non upgraded firmware etc.A hobbywing max 8 system would be a downgrade imo. Theres a reason all the speed runners use castle... they are great.
My max 8 system has basically fallen apart, (cant replace the power switch when the cables snapped at the resin), whilst all my castles work just fine and can easly replace the harnesses. -
2 hours ago, RC4WD fan said:
So would I need just the front or do front and back? what are peoples thoughts
Front outer and inter portals, kept the plastic arms as a weak spot, For the rear, just outer covers, might go for inner covers too, but dont feel it needs it atm.
Get underdrive gears, stick them in the rear, they arn't cheap but makes a difference with climbing. You can get overdrive gears too, but the underdrive gives the same effect, if your want lots of overdrive, you can overdrive the front aswell as underdrive the back.
We dont run wheel weights just heavy alloy wheels that work out to be 150g each with tires fitted.
All up the trucks about 5kg.
I got mine from local shops and fitment mmm, well getting the bearings out isnt fun, and irrc the front inner covers didnt come with the right length screws and they were cheese. -
20 hours ago, RC4WD fan said:
Are the brass kits but in black ? as I’m not a fan of the brass colour
Fasttrack brass is black for trx
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5 hours ago, Zen said:
Thanks so much. After some more hours of surfing I think I might have found a winner. The Team Corally 6s Radix XP Buggy. I have heard great things about this car and watched some YouTube. It looks like it has tons of power and super bashable. I am mainly driving it in the woods but sometimes on the road so I think this is a perfect car.
Do you guys have anything to share about this car that I might not know.
Thanks
From what I've seen on other bashers, it's not as strong as others, metal chassis and bulk heads don't last on big air but few do. If its not extreme bashing you should be OK. 🙂
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21 hours ago, Grogg said:
How far can you modify the HPI Sport 3 - does it come as a rolling chassis or in a kit that needs to be assembled it's quite taken my fancy as well, before it's no longer a HPI Sport 3?
I've been wondering about this since I first got into the hobby and started to build my Rock Socker, less than 50% of the parts I used to build that are from the Tamiya Rock Socker kit, most of the parts I used aren't even made by Tamiya, the TT-02 SRX that I have lined up to build for my next challenge with my mates, I'm not exaggerating when I say, I'd be extremely surprised if I use 15-20% of the parts that came in the kit if not less, is it still a TT-02 if I use less than 20% of the parts the kit comes with, and instead substitute them with say gears from HPI, Koysher and RW Racing, drive train from Yeah Racing, shocks from GMade..... and even say use the gears out of a TT-01 and DT-03 instead of the TT-02 gears - the TT-01 speed spur gear set includes a 55T and 58T spur gear the speed spur gear set for the TT-02 is 67T or 68T the diffs on the DT-03 are identical size and shape as the ones on the TT-02 except that they are made out of metal instead of plastic.
I haven't done any mods, they say add a washer to stop the back ring pinion slop.
As noted you can fit pinions on the driveshaft, this is good because the only other gearing choice is the high speed set and I hear these melt. Probably some metal c hubs as they seem weak.
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Hobao Hyper 7
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4 hours ago, Stormbringer said:
After having fitted the Quickrun Fusion to the TRX6 i got a chance to test it today
Really impressed with the slow speed control with it
Got the Truck moving and switched cruise control on and it just crawled its way along
Well how about that, does what it says on the box 😉 new you wouldnt be able to fault it.
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Same here, could do with a spur gear etc, lets see what you have, i cant pop around, do you have any photos?
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1 hour ago, Grogg said:
The goal my mates and I have is to build a TT-02 that will go over 100mph - hence why I want to buy a rolling road/dyno for RC cars, I really don't think it's safe running a RC car be it 1/10 or 1/8 scale at those speeds in an uncontrolled environment - even at 3am in a deserted car park in the middle of nowhere.
Sounds like your should try to attend a rossa or speed frenzy event, where fellow minded speed enthusiasts send there cars to 200mph on a runway in a very controlled and safe for people (not the cars) environment that just ooses passion, cant find a better group of people. Theres a group doing a tamiya 100mph challenge this year.
Worth the trip always worth it.-
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Arrma hoons will do 100mph, you can also try contact foams for over 100mph passes.
No issues pushing i think silver hoons to 101mph, maybe want a softer compound if your draging it.
Running a hyper 7 with 32t pinion and 34t spur on a 8s motor and esc, dropping the trigger not pulled a tire off the rim yet. They wont grip because the power and compound.
Have you tired are you allowed to use compounds on the tire to prep them, eg drag mixtures / glue. -
My old ride before moving to uk, miss her was lots of fun and kept up with cars way out of its league. Upped the boost she really did pull, otherwise pretty much stockish.
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2 hours ago, wolfie1 said:
Thanks for the feedback, they are no wider than whats on their already, are you on about when turning to lock? The esc came with the fan fitted and the 1 on the motor comes on at 50 degrees and off again at 45 so doesnt run all the time, if im messing about with the trailer is used to come on with the standard traxxas system. I did think that there may be a slight fitment issue when i opened the packet, but they are bought now not much i can do about that and i doubt they would take them back, whats the worst that can happen………………….. 🤣
50c is not hot these have cuttoffs in the 100s of c they do come with a fan no one uses the fan as its not needed 🙂
Width isnt the issue even with spacers they will rub due to scrub angles, i have 2.2 traxxas canyon tires they are not as big as other 2.2s so i use them on the back of the outlaw to underdrive the rear and 2.2 rc4wds on the front that are 5mm bigger on the front to over drive it.
The height is the issue, when loaded on a corner, see it will rub your metal sliders or front bumper.
Fireteam, Mojave, Vorteks.
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