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Redback

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Posts posted by Redback

  1. On 03/01/2024 at 03:42, RSanchez said:

    Hi all,

     

    wondering if you can help. 
     

    I have a brushed Outlaw. After getting fed up with killing the motor, I’ve fitted the HobbyWing Max10 and 3652 motor combo with Codder 2S lipo battery. I got a 23T metal pinion and River Hobby metal spur gear. 
     

    The gears are slipping. 
     

    I have fitted an aluminium 23T motor mount, chassis, trailing arms, both attachment points for the trailing arms, and rear link set. Upgraded the shocks and shock oils. I’ve got an antisway fitted to the front.

     

    I have slightly stripped one of the lower gearbox  threads (rear, motor side) which might be allowing the rear bearing to lift. The other side is fine.

     

    Im thinking about trying a VRX 23T pinion and a new lower transmission case. Anything else I should try?

     

    Its been fun upgrading it, but I’m starting to think just buying a better truck outright would have been cheaper…! Still, it’s grown with my son, so still happy to put more money into it at the moment at least to get it working.  There an aluminium transmission housing for the Outlaw?

    plz take a photo of the transmission with the top off.
    things to check,
    - the alloy motor mount goes 2 ways, ensure its sitting and meshing right.
    - the bearings can melt around the spur gear, this means a new upper and lower housing, fairly cheap.
    - the spur gear has a small pin that locks in in place, this needs a shim on the bearing side to keep it tight, alt glue the pin in.

    - there is no slipper clutch on the outlaw transmission, check the grub screws on the transmission outputs, they may have backed out a bit.

    - check the diff inputs also have the gub screws tight, outlaw is fixed 4x4 diveline with only open diffs.

    - best mod ive found is lock the back diff, makes a big diffrence.

    - I ran the same esc and motor, it didnt work well in the outlaw as its just not got the grunt to get it moving, if the car is juddering this is called cogging, nothing is slipping....
    its when the motor doesnt have the low rpm torque to complete a motor turn.
    - as for fixes for this i replaced the entire transmission as its just didnt work for my young lad motors kept melting...

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. Yes, you used the pack for a year, batteries are consumables, you wouldnt take a nitro engine back to a shop because the engine parts wear out.
    Batteries wear out also and i think considering its been raced and that takes higher tolls on batteries, this response is well within their legal rights.
    I have returned a few overlander batteries but only due to them arriving below safe storage charge (lipo) in this instance the purchaser has right to return as the product arrived damaged, wear and tear even after 3 months they can reject the return and would as its been used.

    • Like 2
  3. Took the boat out, almost didnt come back, the little nuckle on the end of the prop shaft is set with epoxy, that is brittle and fails.
    Tried to make a coupler out of brass, but ended up just using the end of an old servo horn, cut into the shape of the motor coupler.
    20231105_152053.jpg?ex=655a3967&is=6547c


    Overall first time working on a boat, not easy but not too difficult it couldnt be fixed 🙂 Rewater proofed with grease, rather than using silicon. Water tight...

    20231105_152059.jpg?ex=655a3967&is=6547c 20231105_154123.jpg?ex=655a3967&is=6547c

     

    FTX Vortex if any one else had similar issues.

  4. On 27/04/2023 at 10:33, Eclipsed4ever said:

    Great to see your still working on the Outlaw... mines been chucked in a box for months. Last time I took it out the control was very weird. Really intermittent and barely driveable so it got put away... until yesterday! Thought I'd finally get on and install the Dumbo X-6. After some head scratching when I accidentally set the throttle range to barely anything and the car had a mind of its own, I found a really useful youtube video on setting up the Dumbo and after feeling like a Dumbo, all was well. The car was driving lovely again and the range was how I imagined it should be. Easily covers the area we've got to drive in now. Tested up to 100m with no problem.

     

    Had a drive round for a while, lost the prop bolts a couple of times (although I've just been reading back through this thread - I forgot I was double nutting them). Had a minor accident and crashed and broke a front CVD but I thought no bother, I'll just do a bit of drifting instead of bashing... Carried on until I crashed again and snapped the front lower arm 😞 New aluminium arms and rear arm mounts now on order, along with some spare shafts! Going to retry the rear steer as well now I have 6ch to play with.

     

    @Redback One thing I saw you mentioned was changing your steering servo around - here's what I did to gain some space. It does hang out a bit but it's much easier to work on.

     

    Have you looked at 3D printing any parts?

    OneDrive 27 Apr 2023.zipUnavailable

    IMG20230427102322.jpg

    IMG20230427102330.jpg

    IMG20230427102342.jpg

    Thats epic mate, love seeing the gmade gearbox there. Hows it holding up?
    Not sure if could run the servo like that as we run larger 2.2 tires.

    As for the lads outlaw, the counter gear set finally gave up, but only due to a bearing dying, the gears never wore out.
    20231104_212924.jpg?ex=65592ccf&is=6546b
    These bearings are tiny and i dont think they were ever replaced.
    Either way, very satisfied with the endurance of the gears on a 4600kv motor over 2 years of harduse and at least 100miles+ of trailing, mudding, swimming and crawling is really outstanding.
    Popped the spare gmadegearbox in and back into the mud and rivers 😄

    A slipper clutch would probably be best for this size of truck, the Axial Yeti is the same size and has a slipper.

    I have printed parts for the other trucks, i havent printed any for the outlaw, my parts wouldnt hold up to the punishment.

  5. 13 hours ago, Stavros said:

    Hi Redback 

    Relatively new to this group and been reading 10-15 pages a day to try and get up to speed on all the improvements. 

    You mention in this thread about the anti-twist hacks - do you know if these are listed anywhere on the forum? 

    Local RC shop has suggested adjusting the rear shocks, relocating the fixing points to the frame. 

    I’m just looking a for a little better cornering rather than flipping! 

    Thanks for pointing me to any key users/threads to look for as I’m sure it’s all in here somewhere in these 130+ pages! 

    Heya mate, so you can get anti sway bars for the yeti from ebay that fit, the arms are decent but the bars are cheese and bend and snap right away. I think i mention it in the outlaw crawler thread, i havent been there for a while.
    Use the stock bar with upgraded arms. You can stiffen up the spring on one side of the rear if you like to send your outlaw, double up on the rear shocks with softer oil or use thicker shock fluid in the rear.
    To help with roll overs you can use stiffer 1/8th buggy springs and 2 stage foams and better tires (with beadlocks if possible) in the front to help the side wall rolling causing it to roll also.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. 9 minutes ago, Lone-wolf said:

     

    I think shotcut is very similar to openshot, so really its back to getting a more powerful laptop unless i could fit an external graphics card of some kind but not sure if i can

    The caddy for a external gpu is more than your budget, then you need another 400£ for the gpu card itself.
    Your laptops also dont have the supporting thunderbolt socket.

    https://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_X260/ThinkPad_X260_Spec.PDF

    I custom built a laptop for 3d art and game development, 4 years ago, dedicated gpu, 16gb of ram. i7 cpu.
    Cost 1000£ worth the investment considering its still high end to this day.

    • Like 1
  7. 5 hours ago, Lone-wolf said:

    no movie maker is gone, not on win 10, another option might be to upgrade the ram from 8gig to 32gig

    You can only go to 16gb on a single ddr 4 dimm
    Usally a dedicated GPU will improve video editor performance vs the inbuilt intel hd graphics that share the os resources.
    You cant upgrade the GPU nore can you desolder the i5 chip.

    I use shotcut a free open source video editor since win 10 lost movie maker.
    Like buying budget crawlers vs the element, You wont see a good performance increase unless you increase your budget.
    Dedicated GPU and i7 with 16gig of DDR 4 is atleast 800£

     

  8. My speedrun DR10 is up for sale only due to lack of use, its had 2 speed runs managed 65mph and 70mph+, has way more in it depending on the esc / motor you choose (no elec / rx included).
    Body is battered as would be expected from speed runs, still usable and well held together with fiber tape, great body to keep for bashing.
    Tires are all good and still glued strongly, Included are body standoffs, an expertly made front bumper protector and a high performance 😁 splitter (uses servo screw holes) to help keep it planted.
    Easly removed if not required. No breakages, some scuffs as expected see pics, the chassis is in excellent but used condition, no binds no rust.

    Comes with 2 spur gears for normal and high speed running, Gear cover, wheeliebar and spares along with full manual and AE10 sticker sheet, Included.

    I'm asking for 110£ posted due to size or 95£ collection from warwickshire.
    RRP for roller and proline body would be about 180-200£

     

    20230826_163648.jpg20230826_163723.jpg20230826_163745.jpg

    20230826_163701.jpg

    20230826_163732.jpg

     

    Any questions please ask, however i wont negotiate on price its already a bargain.
    Have a great day.

  9. Glad your enjoying your FTX Keeper, You know i love saying told ya so 😄 Good rig eh, only gets better, have you overdriven the front yet, actually makes very subtle but decent difference. along with lower cg where you can, brass it up.

    • Like 2
  10. oh the SE Its the cheap n nasty version, no bearings, no overdrive, plastic shocks, plastic eveything, personally would avoid.

    Even the ftx has bearings. Personally i wouldnt pick either then. Save up some more or go for another brand or the non SE version of the enduro, that is a spectacular trailtruck and excellent crawler.
    If your wanting a trail truck, they both will do ok, as for crawling (rockcrawling, neither are a good choice imo)

  11. On 10/08/2023 at 07:12, beenq said:

    Hi Redback, are you talking about the silver mounts in lockys picture above ? If so yes I have those in place and at the bottom of the diff, your right in what your saying if that's upside down it really throws it out and the one pic I've posted does look major out. It was the 3rd leg on the motor mount that was throwing me all lop sided in the other direction so hopefully that's sorted with the spacers I've put in. Thanks for adding in though seriously I appreciate all input 

    Yes, the 3rd leg on the mount is odd, its not a hyper mount from the looks of it, so you may have issues with fitment.
    Aslong as you have the standoffs and the diff holder is the right way around it should be flat, so that could mean the motor mounts to tall.

  12. 12 minutes ago, lcfmonkey said:

    I'm looking to buy my first crawler and have been tying myself in knots trying to work out what to buy.

    I don't want to spend the earth and have boiled my options down to an Element Enduro Sendero at £256 or an FTX Outback Treka at £159.

    Firstly, am I going to notice a £100 difference between these models and secondly is there enough of a difference for the FTX to put me off the idea of crawling?

    Thanks for any advice!

    Monkey

    Yeah, i think the ftx uses a smaller motor, either way the Element (not the SE version) is the better rig by far, overdive trans, good shocks and just overall better.

  13. Rossa results with the Banzia's
    Lads results are great all runs are his besides the one listed as mine.
    The car "Hurricane" wasnt smooth to drive and always ended up on its roof vs the other car "Typoon", the diffs are basically locked, i think this is whats sending it to its roof as it wasnt lifting and flipping, along with the body not being ideal. Thats for a later post, this Rossa was for the lad not me and he got a good amount of practice and runs in.
    New PB for him on " Hurricane" 52.6mph, PB with his car for me was 54mph.
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 41.83 41.70
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 40.28 40.28
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 52.59 52.63
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 39.35 39.34 (Spin out)
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S - 44.69
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 28.24 28.12 (Sideways)
    Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 10.84 10.82 (Flipped)
    Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 25.08 25.08 Car Flipped.
    Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 30.28 30.28
    Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 41.11 41.07
    Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 39.35 39.40 (On Roof throug traps)

    Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 54.37 54.41 Redbak Driving (Flipped)
    Fastest car upside down through the traps 😂

    The other banzai "Typhoon" ran perfect, this time a castle sytem and half the kv motor of the 108 pass, same 4s battery and negative gearing. 34 pinion - 27 spur.

    Sat 10 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 63.84 63.66 Redbak Driving
    Sun 10 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 91.77 91.77 Redbak Driving
    Sun 10 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 90.49 90.49 Lad Driving
    New PB for the lad 90mph, almost got his hat. Next time, its all about practice and preperation


    "Typoon" has 125mph in it for sure, and once sorted "Comet" has 100mph in it easy with all its upgrades.
    Was great to get the cars back out after so long, its a long wait for Rossa 2024. If only i could get to rd3 this year haha 🤔

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  14. Rossa results, with round 1 with the hpi, the 2 pole got very hot so swapped out for the hobbywing setup used in the banzai, then it started to cut out at 100% throttle (no failsafe, no steering) so didnt run it again.
    Same gearing all runs 1.1 32t - 32t

     

    Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 75.42 75.42  (Castle + 2 pole)
    Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 75.76 75.59  (Castle + 2 pole)
    Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 80.83 80.50  New P.B (Hobbywing xr8 sct combo)
    Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 66.84 66.75 (Hobbywing cuttout)
    Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S - 39.47 Only 1 Trap Working (Hobbywing cuttout)

     

    Overall ok results, steering deadzone is massive, needs lots of work but good base to improve.

     

    • Like 2
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