Redback

All the hardware looks really beefy. Specially those milled aluminium chassis rails. Should be a strong truck. Looks pretty too!

oooh awesome thank you for the information, I didnt order the front shaft but heres hoping a cut down plastic rear outlaw shaft fits or the LFS kit comes with a shorter shaft, time will tell and i will too. All going well with the postman, l'll start the build this weekend pretty excited to see how the truck performs. As for the rest of the hardware to complete the kit, to start with as not sure how strong the front steering hardware is a 13kg servo, paired with a 35t brushed with 14t pinion on hw1080 ecu on 2s lipo and then move to unsensored brushless and sensored to find the sweet spot, as for the shoes 1.9 canyon tires on heavyweight rims.

Thank you, most welcome, I will add more photos and details as the project evolves! Next on the todo is strengthen the alloy chassis as the lads one has started to bend were the trailing arms mounts attach. @Badcrumble the next time i take the motor out, i'll put in a brushed motor, 15t 550, or 21t 550 on 18t pinion, with a hobbywing 1080 crawler esc and run some nimh packs then move to 2s lipo and 3s lipo for comparison footage / thoughts. I have done some limited testing with this mod on brushed. Here's what i found. The motors don't melt so last much longer due to less strain on the motor, they may get warm but should be to hot to hold. Your runtime will be less because the gear ratios and top end speed is limited due to voltage & nimh output. It will have lots of modulation but lack top end speed, probably loosing about 40%. It wont bog down and might snap or twist the plastic drive train, it will round out the stock wheel hexes etc, so be prepared to upgrade these things at some point. Next up i'll work out the ratios and list them along with the expected speeds with some videos on different motor setups and tidy up the parts list / first post, as it really doesnt explain whats going on.

Thank you for that, here's tohoping its a fun build! 🍻 Wonder if the transmission can be flipped so the motor weight is forward. Guess will find out soon 😁

Awesome keen to hear what he has to say, I just found this that answers my question if the other enduro parts fit. Looks like the IFS kit will fit, so its looking more like ill be picking one up also.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/element-enduro-gatekeeper-rock-crawler-builders-kit/rc-car-products/1332924 Couldnt find any threads or posts about this truck, so thought id start one as some one on the fence about picking one up, and if so what the truck was like to drive and work on. This truck has my interest due to trailing arm suspension, roll cage style body with lots of wheel clearance and what would appear to be support for other enduro chassis components. Questions. How do these hold up under brushless, seeing all the reviews use brushless but no word on component failures naturally. I look at the plastic transmission and small tooth size as a weakness and would prefer a 32 pitch. So hows the element stealth transmission, does it hold up well, with no slipper? Looking at the Element RC Ifs Conversion Kit it should mount to this chassis as the frame and drive train are the same as the other Enduros, can any one confirm this is the case? From the looks of the truck in videos it looks quite tall and top heavy, what are peoples real experience with the truck, any recommended mods, id prefer to run full size hard case lipos. What other bodies fit, could you run a pickup body if you wanted to ditch the cage? Personally The stock truck whilst cool looking doesn't seem all that capable, it looks to narrow, tall and weight balance is off, to much bumper overhang. I'm not so keen on the truck as stock because for me its just another solid axle truck drive train wise and im not looking for another one of those I'm looking for something a bit different and this seems to be a flexible platform to work on if other enduro components fit is the biggest selling point for me to get a truck i would like to drive. I'd be I'm looking at putting in the Independent Front Suspension kit, deep dish wheels with taller 1.9 or small 2.2 wide tires and maybe some drooped shocks to give it some more flex and lower cg. This way the truck is something completely different to a solid axle crawler and even more so with the trailing arm at the back. What's y'all thoughts, cheers.

I picked up a brushed outlaw and ran it brushless on some big wheels for a bit to remember how they ran stock, it was happy on the flats and once going but the stalling on the hills got to me it was time for surgery, I had the intention of trying a Revision 2 of the crawler mod a bit more suited to my needs rather than a basher for the lad. Im aiming for the control of a crawler with the ultra truck frame and the speed of a rock racer basically an axial yeti? Partslist. #FTX8757 - FTX Mauler/ Outback Fury Front and Rear Universal Main Driveshaft #GM51201 - GMade Transmission Housing Set #GM51204 - GMade Counter Gear Set 3 x #TRX5114 - Ball Bearings - Rubber Shield (5x8x2.5mm) (2) #TRX1985 - Traxxas PTFE-coated washers 5x8x0.5mm (20) (use with ball bearings) #GM51207 - GMade Counter Gear Shaft Set #GM51208 - GMade Transmission Screw Bag For R1 Recommended but optional. #FTX8377 - FTX Outlaw Steel Rear Central CVD Complete (try threadlocking and shrinkwrap shaft to save loosing pins.) Same Gmade R1 transmission, this time mounted with motor poking out the back, theres no wrong way to mount these things. Cut mauler shaft to fit. Cut top plate to a tight fit. Depending on your choice, grind the grub nut pins to fit into the smaller outputs, or use 2 either side. Rear mounting the motor, so theres room for clearance for outrunner motors and plates to protect it later, not ideal for long motors or cables due to maybe them getting hungup on rocks, would need some form of belly pan to protect it. Testing the Revolver motor, need to lock the diffs to take advantage of it, to wet to play outside without getting motor mucky, but performed well on the plank challenge. Final layout, with twin battery support, having the ecu at the back seems to serve well, as the short heat sensor cable limited positioning. Need to finalize mounting and cables but was keen to get it out for a test. Outdoor testing with hobbywing max10 stc 3300kv 3652sl running on 4s, 2x 7000mha shes heavy, so going easy with 9t pinion to start before going to 18t. Need to move up some pinion teeth for more top end speed, tweak the breaking, dragbreak, lock the diffs, stronger steering to take advantage of the extra torque etc but for now it runs nice i think. Thanks for reading.

@PraetoR I cant stand the outlaw transmission due to the clogging that happens with it on hills, so i dump it for a diffrent gearbox completely, you can see the results and details of my first attempt here, I have just done the same to my outlaw above but with the transmission / gearbox flipped so the motor is mounted backwards. Love your videos, hope to see you continue to work on your outlaws.

Hate to say it but buy cheap buy twice, yes the ftx ones more expensive and falls apart if not prepared correctly but its steel not pot metal, I've put 4s through mine with a higher torque gearbox with no issues so far. The plastic drives are good because they can flex, they will twist but not had one snap yet on 3s even. Aslong as the truck doesnt get bound down and the drive train over stressed, the stock plastic shafts lasted along time. Played round with battery positions, new gearbox, running on 4s be intresting to see how it handels the hills and if the 3s motor gets super hot, so far so good tho.

Thanks @stimpy I took a look and they seem similar, parts still hard to come by right now and i worry about putting to much strain on the transmission case as its seperated in 2 parts rather than being a single unit. I was able to source parts to build another Gmade R1 Transmission if anyone else wants a quick guide here are the parts needed, shims optional and can always just get 3m bolts and nuts from hardware store. #GM51201 - GMade Transmission Housing Set #GM51204 - GMade Counter Gear Set 3 x #TRX5114 - Ball Bearings - Rubber Shield (5x8x2.5mm) (2) #TRX1985 - Traxxas PTFE-coated washers 5x8x0.5mm (20) (use with ball bearings) #GM51207 - GMade Counter Gear Shaft Set #GM51208 - GMade Transmission Screw Bag For R1 I love looking in rock crawling section to see peoples builds, my build thread for the first attempt is here. I also noticed someone had a 3d printed transmission for a 2.2 sporty rig that looked perfect so will investigate into those.

Should take 3s no worries, just get a motor cooler and maybe pop a fan on it if its getting to hot. I only run 3s on mine but then again dont use the stock electronics.

Sounds like the brush arms in the motor have melted they are only thin bits of copper. The motors are crud but even higher quality motors will be eaten by the outlaw, worth investing in brushless if you dont want to keep replacing motors after a couple of hours.

Hello, I'm looking for advice and not sure where to post this so please move it if needed. I've done custom builds with this transmission with great success however, These seem sold out globally, what alternatives are there if any that people can recommend, that might be in stock. What i want. https://junfac.com/product/gmade-r1-transmission-set/351/ Requirements / what's needed. Decent gear down for crawling with large pinion choice as per the example above. Wide gear mesh and bearings to take brushless power systems. Non offset single shaft double ended 5mm output. Should mount to a flat surface however willing to make brackets for chassis bar mounted transmissions eg trx4. No exposed gears train, eg spur / pinions. Slipper not required. Alternatively what gearboxes / transmissions will fit and gmade r1 rockbuggy. i can sort of seeing a trx4 transmission fitting in with a bodge, but any aftermarket or custom ones that can be recommended? Thank you.

That looks surprisingly good @DAL3D, be intresting to see how it fairs, knowing the staduim truck bodies kinda fit, i might look at getting a proline one as those are pretty indistructable, very thick. Most my ftx bodies have cracked even with other models like the highrock they seem quite thin and split easy on corners. Have you done the shoo goo and wall tape mod on this?

What a buet I use these glowplugs on these engines without any issue but others might have a better idea https://www.modelsport.co.uk/?product_id=1762 Using 30/14 nitro If its not had the fuel cleaned out and the air filter looks a bit iffy these might help it run nicer long term. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/-fastrax-re-buildable-1-8th-scale-air-filter-blue-/rc-car-products/394842 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-aluminium-fuel-filter-blue-/rc-car-products/371127 Whilst you have the air filter off, few drops of oil on the carb to ensure its smooth. Enjoy!

@DAL3D Sorry not sure if your asking about mine or NoFx's wheels. I got mine from uk stores, wheelspin and modelsport, i wouldnt reccomend them for being chased by a doggo as they are quite expensive, the alloy beadlocks tho would probably be an investment, there are outlaw alloy wheels for it, that dont need wheel widerners. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/406615 They cost more tho so i guess the cost balances out. I have also ran gmade tires these are good and much cheaper (the outlaw ones are good also maybe a bit tall and soft on the side walls), these are wide and seem to have less tire roll, they also are super grippy so might roll more on tarmac or shortgrass, they fit air tight to the axial wheel rims. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=385454 The Red Oulaw is running. GMade 2.2 Wheel Widner (4) (Offset: +13mm) https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/237032/ Fastrax Axial 5-spoke 2.2 Alloy Wheel and Beadlock for Wraith https://www.modelsport.co.uk/?product_id=375697 ProLine Interco TSL SX Super Swamper 2.2 G8 Tyres ProLine Hyrax 2.2 Predator Rock Terrain Truck Tyres The Blue Outlaw is running. Fastrax 1:10 Crawler Granite 2.2 Scale Wheel 140mm Tyre https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=425367 Absima Aluminum Wheel Hex Hub 12mm https://www.modelsport.co.uk/?product_id=435614

Welcome... you will have fun! They are great, You can also pretty easily go electric with it, as your handy with the tools, the results will blow your socks off. Take 6s all day for the big kid and on 3s it's reasonably quick for the little ones and some fun jumping. Get some monster truck wheels and they work great as a truggy. This was an old nitro racer, i think it performs better as electric, either way well done on the find have a blast!

@NOFX those new wheels should help and looks like you have the battery low and sideways good call! @DAL3D looks like some one was shooting at it with a .22 what a beating! I'm digging the body rips to be fair gives it character Probably get some more tires / wheels can see those being fun to chew Also took the outlaws out for a mud basth today. The huge wheels keeps it pretty planted does roll when you coner at full pelt, sway bar goes in tonight. Some other changes that have helped with nose diving, harder front springs in this case hobao 1/8th scale buggy springs. Also added a gmade servo saver to save some servos since supergluing the other servo saver that was weak resulted in cheap servos being stripped, this one is very stiff but still have enough give to take a hit. Heatshrink over steel driveshaft, didnt loose any pins or grubnuts. (Joints inside are filled with marine grease also to stop rusting etc) Thank you for the advice on wheel hub extenders @DartmoorTrails 5.8' tires no worries no rubbing. On the lads truck the front CV finally gave in after 5ish years, it had a really hard life so very impressed, and it was just the pin the failed not even the joint, but boy was it worn! Expected it to happen sooner, so already had spares in stock, next will be the diff spurs, they are really sharp and on their last legs, so all in all 5 ish years for a drive train that has been hammered on brushless since the start im really impressed.

Do they ever arrive, i dont trust buying from sites that are not uk stores, I rather pay more for something to arrive I took the advice of superglueing the servo saver and so far so good. Got a fun day tommorrow going to be doing another transmission swap on my outlaw to the crawler gearbox along with 5.8" tires and the revolver motor it should perform really well, just a theory, time will tell.

You might be able to drill holes in the carnage one to make it fit, but id imagine it would look odd and the wheels might catch, @Bullet Proof Outlaw?! made an aliminum body panels for the frame for his outlaw hopefully he will post a picture of it here ;), maybe something like that with another panel covering the back, i would be more worried about a tooth penitrating the lipo battery rather than chewing through a cable, as you can always flip the battery so the cables are inside the cab.

I also tried a new motor something diffrent this time. It wont be staying in, just wanted to see how smooth it would be and was blown away. Cant really use outrunners on these as theres no clearance for dirt and grit to get under the can. No overheat and pretty smooth on the etronix as you can change the motor freqency.

G'day Dan, thank you very much! more stuff for the spares box haha, hope you got the servo sorted! Stay safe and might see you there again!

Finally got round to getting a little bit of footage. This is using a diffrent motor / ecu combo now, and is running on 2s but can go up to 4s, on 3s it will speed match a stock brushless outlaw running 2s. So not bad for a crawler. Hobbywing max 10 stc 120amp, with a Hobbywing 3656 4700kv on 7000mha 2s lipo. 2-3 hours runtime.

@DAL3D Welcome fellow outlaw, you boke her in well! Loving the mods right off the bat, awesome to see, should make quite a bit of difference. Cheers, these look far to wide for what im wanting but it puts me in the right direction knowing you can get. Those long insetting wheel nuts I like that, brilliant!

Sorry for the double post, Has anyone had any luck mounting Axial wheels to the hubs of the outlaw, besides the rubbing on the front steering arms, There is not enough thread to properly set the wheel nut on the end of the axle. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=375697 There is 10mm of thread on the outlaw wheelbolts. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=365847 Ideally i need 15mm looking at the axial wraith ones. These look like they might fit but would have to drop the inner bearing along with hoping they reach the diff output cups. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=388138 Will probably need to offset them some more to prevent the inner beadlock nuts rubbing so need the extra thread for 3 or 5mm hex nuts. As for the back axle, maybe this will work? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/axial-ar60-ocp-full-width-axle-adapter-set/rc-car-products/395295 From fitting it seems standard wraith wheel hexes will do ok and these wont be needed, just have to sand down some of the rear axle plastic that makes the wheel bind a tad. If this isnt the place to ask, let me know if i should make it a seperate thread?