MrPeaski

Cheers @Fly In My Soup Thanks for your input. Out of pure curiosity I did a little test of my own. Smooth MFC board like yours but not quite as big, maybe about 3" longer than the truck but enough to test. The same Chinese 1.9 tyres went to 46 degrees, the stock Hobao tyres which are a bit wider went to 48 degrees. In saying that It could all be down to the weight of the car playing a big part. I have no idea at the moment what mine weighs. Good experiment though 👍

I was just wondering as @Fly In My Soup did a video here https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/246595-chinese-tyres-have-0-grip-%F0%9F%A4%A3/?tab=comments#comment-2550834 and said the grip was poor. It was on a smooth piece of chipboard though!

Took mine out for a second run today. I think the changes I made to the suspension have made a difference. It seems to be less bouncy over rough terrain at speed. Filmed this time with a Nokia 6.1 phone at 1920x1080. Might see what 4k looks like next Also I think the next time I'll fit the stock wheels and tyres (which have been weighted with solder) to see if the grip level is better or worse than the eBay tyres currently on.

@Logie Traxxas TRX-4 GTS shocks have been suggested as suitable alternative or Element RC FT Enduro Shocks as another. I finally have the lights fitted and working on mine now, the new rear lenses (and spare clear fronts) arrived yesterday. Fitted main lights as most of you have, but went slightly different with the auxiliary lights I've gone for more the 'Clhelsea Tractor' look instead of Outdoorsman. They're not as bright as the roof mounted ones that @everclear1984 @Stormbringer and @Yrkoon are using but it gives me the look I was aiming for. They are switched on remotely from CH4 on the transmitter. The orange front corner lights are in fact 3mm white ones that I coloured in with orange and red sharpies, as I hadn't got any and it was a last minute thought. It's supposed to look like the American always on indicators. Hopefully over the weekend I'll be able to give it a proper run and try out the suspension changes

I had an idea that you'd already got a 3D printer, hence my last post in the DC-1 thread. Definitely useful. Some useful links to help you Reddit https://reddit.com/r/3Dprinting Reddit Anycubic sub-reddit https://reddit.com/r/anycubic/ Teaching Tech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw Chep https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg

That's what I was thinking, or massaging back to original shape.........that is if you ever find it🤣

@everclear1984Would sitting in very hot/boiling water save the wheel?

Bit of 'radio silence' from me at the mo. The servo horn and lights I'd been waiting for arrived ok. Servo horn was a bit too long so modded it and printed a revised on axle servo mount to lift it up a bit and that's all fine. The lights not so good. front led's were loose in the holders so put a sliver of fuel tubing between each and the slotted holder which does the job to firm them up. In fitting the rears, I overtightened the screws and snapped off the posts they screw into so.... new lenses on order😡 @everclear1984 I've had a mess with the stock shocks (not actually run it yet) but completely stripped each one and set them up as follows: removed both black spacers under the piston and replaced with a single 3mm piece of fuel tubing. The pistons have been replaced with a 3dprinted one that looks like this picture. Basically eliminated one 'flat' from the stock piston and made the remaining a notch that on re-assembly is aligned with the gap in the circlips. I printed them a fraction thicker (and sanded down), so that the circlips hold it in position so it shouldn't rotate. When rebuilding, I put a spare silicone o ring on to act as a bump stop. Just bouncing on the desk, it feels more supple than before this is with the stock oil. If you want the STL files to try these out yourself let me know

@No brains Looking really nice there, get out and drive it. 👍 @Yrkoon how on earth did you bend the steering link. Let me guess...... in Clarkson mode you put a 6s battery in and sent it......... into a rock, tree, any other immovable object (delete as required) 😂

Thanks Guys. Think I've got the mesh a bit better now. I undid the 'one easy access screw' 🙃 and had a little move around. I actually found it easier to do it 'live' I adjusted the motor setup so that the lower of the motor mount screws was in a high point and tightened it up, with the higher screw in a low point, then plugged everything in with the wheel off the ground and ran the car slowly. moved the motor a bit at a time until it was at its quietest. job done and tightend everything up👍

I've finally got the video I shot the other day to edit together. Turns out it was the overclock on the PC that was causing all the problems. Turned it down from 4.9Ghz to 4.6Ghz and all is well. There are a few firsts for me with this, first time shooting video with this camera (10 year old Panasonic Lumix TZ10), first time filming with a camera attached to a transmitter, and first time driving a trail crawler on a trail. I think next time i do this I'll use a modern phone as the resolution and quality will be better. The video isn't brilliant, but let me know what you think

@Logie I have the kit version with a Hobbywing 1080 ESC (think the RTR is a Hobbbywing 1060). When set up with + on the ESC to + on the motor, and - on the ESC to - on the motor it was faster backwards which isn't right. I've swapped them around and it is running correct which is faster forwards. I have no idea why the supposed 'correct' wiring' is like this. @everclear1984 and @Stormbringer have the same setup and theirs are the same. It ends up being Blue ESC wire to Red motor wire, Yellow ESC wire to Black motorr wire Although looking at the RTR pics the motor wires are blue/yellow too! you can just switch them over on the motor I too have a 5500mah 2s battery, but I'm testing suspension adjustments as it did seem overdamped from stock when building up. See my post on page 8 for my comments (11 March)

Also I tried @everclear1984 suggestion of Kinemaster on a tablet to edit my footage. Proved fruitless as the audio didn't work. Thanks anyway 👍

Great pictures there @Yrkoon @everclear1984 I saw a YouTube clip that suggested adjusting the endpoints. with the kit plastic servo horn on the 4link/on axle servo mount, my endpoints are at around 60% and that simply because the ball joint (setup as yours is) comes into contact with the servo. Think I'm getting most of the available steering lock, but I'm going to try a remodel (and 3D print) of the on axle mount to lift the servo an extra 2-3mm. Ally servo horn still on the way so this may not be needed once fitted.

Thanks @everclear1984. Your videos are great which for me is a shame as I hate doing stuff on a phone. The filming would be ok, but I can't stand touch screens (Samsung Galaxy A50) for anything precise. Looks like I'll have to persevere and try again

OK, I'm pulling my hair out at the mo (what little I've got) trying to get the damn video I shot to edit. I'm using Adobe Premiere Elements latest version and its a paid for version (unlike me 😎) and it keeps crashing😡 The video from the camera come out as a .mts file, which according to Mediainfo is AVC video/AC-3 audio. Tried the footage straight from the camera and when saving the edit it crashes encoding the output. Tried converting to .mp4 with the same internal bitrates and a very short 10 second clip worked, but while adding more clips in the editor its */-+$%£ crashed again! Help, what do you guys use to edit your clips

Welcome to the club I was able to give mine its debut trail run today, a bit later (once I've edited it) I'll post the video. Been busy with the 3D printer and made a rear wheel blank with a Merc logo Then I made a plate to attach an ageing Panasonic TZ10 camera to the Transmitter to do the filming 'Bumblebee' looked a bit dirty when I'd finished 😎

Bumblebee haha🤣 like it. I'll run the stock shocks for now, might have a go at some 3d printed pistons at some point. never seen pistons with just a couple of flat spots before, only ever multiple holes in different diameters. The GMade shocks caught my eye a while ago before I got the DC-1 as they do look amazing and they're proper piggy backs too With a bit of luck I'll be able to get out and drive it today or tomorrow, and see if I can get some video

Finished my HoBao DC-1 build

Apart from a lighting kit and a aluminium servo horn yet to arrive, I'm finished Electrics went in on Friday and I had to take it into the garden for a little test run. I was surprised at just how quick it was in high gear on 2S. Not lightning fast, but faster than I'd expected and plenty quick enough for the top end. Slow speed in low gear was really nice, creeps along slowly but very smoothly. Last thing Friday I masked the bodyshell off. Considering its a simple 2 colour paint job the masking took ages. First time using Tamiya masking tape (10mm) and I was please how nice it is to use. Painted the bodyshell today and after waiting for the paint to cure for a couple of hours, I set to putting on the body mouldings wheel arch liners etc So now its time for pictures........ Seat and centre console parts A bit blurry I painted the grille, and once dry gently flatted the raised surfaces back to black The paint colours used are all Core RC and they are:- Metallic Graphite (CR620) roof and bonnet Yellow Taxi (CR601) main body and seat centres Metallic Silver (CR621) main body backing and centre console and grille detail Originally the black parts were going to be done in a carbon effect, but I wasn't happy with my test pieces so decided not to risk ruining the shell. I think it turned out pretty good.

I've had a closer look. They don't look like they'll work on the DC-1. the piggy back would be facing out, not against the chassis, so I think when the wheel starts to articulate into the wheel arch it'll actually hit the piggy back. Ah well, they sure look pretty. Stock TRX4 shocks?

I like the look of these as a possible future upgrade but not sure if they'd fit https://www.modelsport.co.uk/gmade-xd-piggyback-shock-93mm-2-/rc-car-products/385335

Yes, same tyres, just credited you as you commented. 👍

4 link conversion and on axle servo mount for the HoBao DC1

Progress report...... I'm about 90% done. Just got the receiver and ESC to fit and plug everything in, and then paint and fit the body mouldings. (I know you've all seen them naked before..........) Did some in place upgrades as I went along..... 2 stage spring kit 4 link conversion with on axle servo mount and some bling wheels, with tyres from Ebay as linked by @Stormbringer Still got lights and an aluminium servo horn to come yet. The build was generally very good, nice quality feel to the plastic and it went together with only a couple of issues. The first was when building the axle assembly, one of the 'cross' pieces was a fraction oversized so the bearing wouldn't fit properly. I had to bodge something together so I could spin it in a drill and carefully turn it down. On the same assembly once I fitted the covers, both diffs were quite notchy, so I pulled them apart and flipped the bearing carriers 180 degrees, which improved things, but not enough. I ended up cutting some slivers of paper! (12mm x 4mm) to put in before the bearing carriers to shim them up. This worked and they are smooth now. Biggest headache were the shocks. I noted that you guys had problems with them binding so was prepared for that. I gently sanded the pistons down and tried each before finally assembling. Don't know about you guys, but I though the stock setup (with stock or 2 stage springs) was over damped and the rebound was too slow. Doing a bounce test on the front and the suspension hardly moved. So... I decided to tweak things. after pulling apart, the 2 under piston spacers in each shock was turned down a bit to reduce the diameter with the idea that the oil can flow past easier, similarly the flat spots on each piston was sanded back a tiny bit to increase the oil flow around them. Rebuilt everything and now I'm happy. Should be doing the ESC/receiver tomorrow, and hopefully paint at the weekend