CUPRABullet

Nice one, cheers all 🙂

As above really. Have destroyed the hex moulding on one Rival MT10 wheel so wondered if you can get the tyre off without ripping it apart?

Well, an update on my rear diff rebuild... Schoolboy error to say the least! Having stripped the back end to get the diff out, stripped that and found nothing broken, it was only when I put it back together and put the left rear wheel back on I realised it had stripped the hex drive in the wheel. So the loss of rear drive was just the driveshaft spinning all along - doh! I just jumped to the conclusion of a diff problem too quickly. Will take note of Bertberr's comment about the other wheels (and keep my wheelnuts tight and checked...)

Still waiting on a rear diff kit from Wheelspin to fix mine...

I've stripped the rear end off mine as I think the rear diff has broken somewhere - got a rebuild kit ordered from Wheelspin Models. Here's a link to the manual and I found enlarging the page made it a lot easier to see what's what. Rival MT10 Manual.indd (associatedelectrics.com)

Lost rear drive at the end of a session yesterday. Rear wheels still contra-rotate and no nasty noises so I think the actual diff is ok? Hoping the pinion has just come loose on the centre drive shaft. Anyone stripped the back end down yet - looks like I will have to take quite a few parts off to isolate it.

Brilliant, glad it's gone well. Love the catchphrase by the way 😆

Search for helicopter tape for protecting the decals. I use it on my mountain bike and on parts of my Rival MT10 truck and it's pretty indestructible 🙂

Hi - this is what he sent me... I guess lacquer will be needed for an RC car that runs outside to protect the transfers as they won't be as tough as vinyl. Use clear or white inkjet paper from Mr Decalpaper. Clear laser waterslide decal paper - Print your own water transfers A4 – Mr Decal Paper Use which is correct for the backgound. All done through word and paint. Print a draft copy to check what you've got is what you want. Set the printer to high grade print and go for it. 3 coats of lacquer after letting the sheet dry for 2 hours should get you a very lovely, long-lasting job I did find this website that looks like it might do what you want though - Personalised Stickers - Use Your Own Custom Designs | Avery

No problem

I have used this guy on eBay for the name and flag stickers - great quality and don't peel off. No idea if he can do custom stuff but might be worth asking? Outline Personalised Bike Stickers Frame and Helmet - Name Decals - Upgraded | eBay A mate of mine who builds and sells model cars prints his own decals using Word docs and the right paper for a printer...

I guess one set please.

Interested , keep me in mind please

Anybody tried different oil viscosity in the shocks? Mine seems to have really slow rebound and feels like the compression is getting stiffer?

And not the most exciting news but realised that Benecol yogurt pots make perfect scale fuel churns for my Rival MT10 garage...

Superb photos!

I looked for spares when I bought mine and couldn't find any. To be honest I havn't broken anything yet and it's had it's fair share of jumps and crashes. I guess if you pile it into a tree and catch a wheel something is going to break but so far so good.

I have a question about upgrading shocks to alloy bodied versions. I've got an Associated MT10 and it handles fine to be honest but I'd like to upgrade the plastic shocks. Could you suggest where I could get some? is it just a matter of making sure the oberall length is the same as originals?

Love the video, it's what MT's are all about. It seems that spots that are good for mountain bike dirt jumps etc are perfect for these. I have been running my Rival MT10 at a few places that I know from MTB riding and it loves all the whoops and drop-offs 😀

Apart from the model looking great I think the model workshop is just fantastic! Adds so much to the photos 👍👍

So tried a sort of rock-crawling approach today with the Rival. We live near the Greensand Ridge in Bedfordshire so there are woods with lovely sandstone type rocky outcrops and drops (Rowney Warren woods where the Chicksands mountain bike trails are which is how I know it) and they looked really inviting. I was surprised on how much it would scrabble up although not crawling as such. Think more the Icelandic Offroad V8 cars way of doing things - dust and stones in all directions but it got up - then jumping it back down again 🙂 It would handle a more subtle approach if I picked the right route but generally it was more fun to attack. Still loving the truck and enjoying searching out different terrains to run it on.

Made some stone guards for the front of the chassis on my Rival MT10. Seems to me that when things get muddy and the front wheels are on lock they will fire all sorts of rubbish straight into the chassis tray and the esc/battery. Might be me being over cautious but can't hurt to have a bit more protection.

So, recently got an Associated Rival MT10 and really happy with it, having huge fun just blasting it it around. I have a mountain bike with Fox Factory forks and rear shock and they are a real step up on basic set-ups due to build quality/damping cartridges/Kashima coating etc. Since I like upgrading stuff, are there a particular brand of RC shocks (alloy bodied) that will be a step on from the shocks on the kit as fitted given that it handles pretty well as is and seems to take jumps in its stride as well?

I have to say, my Rival MT10 is just huge fun. First rc car for years and first electric/brushless but it's so easy compared to a nitro and goes really well, even on 2S.

Next time out and just loving it!