Fef15t

I use Humbrol Clearfix, but that Glue & Glaze looks like it’s probably the same stuff but cheaper. https://uk.humbrol.com/products/clearfix-28ml-bottle-ac5708

Your problem sounds like one I was suffering recently. In my case I discovered that the antenna wire inside the transmitter (where it connects to the pcb) had come loose. I refitted it and added a blob of hot glue to keep it in place. Oddly, though, despite using the same transmitter for all my cars, it effected one car much more than any of the others.

Yes! Thank you! They are exactly what I was hoping to find. I’m sure Mad Max wasn’t overly inclined to crack out his scale rule whilst being chased down by a spike encrusted monster truck.

It is, and has been in my wish list for ages, but I was hoping to find it in plastic (plasticard?), and a bit cheaper. I’ll have to go for it if I can’t find it in plastic.

I have a Lunchbox that needs a bit of work and, while I am working on it, I thought I might replace the very, very battered body. Rather than just throw the current one away, I thought I would Mad Maxify it. I can make or find just about everything I need. The thing I am having trouble with is finding tread plate (either single or double diamond) in plastic. The lunchbox is 1/12 scale, but the closest I can find, in the tread plate, is 1/50. So, the question is: Where do people find theirs? Or, if I can’t get it in the exact scale, what scale - that is more easily acquired - do you think I can get away with? Thanks.

I can recommend the Futaba T4GRS as well. I got mine second hand for £100 (with metal carry case and two receivers). If it was ever stolen, though, I would pay full price for another if I couldn’t find one used. You mentioned a problem with your hands; one of the things I love about this receiver is that you can alter the angle that the sticks travel, so you can set them to more naturally fit your hands.

I have a 1991 Raleigh Kandara that I love to bits. Unfortunately, about 18 months ago my spine/nerve damage took a massive turn for the worst and I haven’t been able to ride since. According to the doctors, I may never get to ride it again. But I love it too much too sell it.

I was thinking that it might be fun to have a double wheel setup on my crawler, for no other reason than I have a spare set of wheels. But I don’t really know how to go about it. I am thinking that there must be an adaptor for just such a thing, but if there is, I don’t know what it’s called, so searching for one is proving difficult. I suppose I could do it with a short coupler and a piece of threaded rod, but I have a feeling that that wouldn’t be terribly secure. And since I would have to buy those parts anyway, I might as well try to get the proper parts in the first place. Anyone know what I am talking about from my probably way too vague description? If so, what is it that I am looking for, exactly?

You could measure the bed, make a template out of paper to be sure, and then make an actual wooden bed out of lollipop sticks or coffee stirrers. You can score them with a fine toothed saw blade or a hobby knife, for a better looking grain. Then use a wood stain, or make one from acrylic paint and water, to make it pop.

Have you tried cleaning the contacts in the battery holder? If it’s an old set, then some corrosion may have happened at the terminals. Just scraping them with a small file would do the trick. If you're going to be one opening it up I assume you own a multimeter. If it is the kind of battery holder that connects with a couple of wires and a plug, just take a quick measurement across the plug terminals. Eliminate the simple things first.

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I don’t know anyone, other than my wife, that has RC cars, so I couldn’t even give it away to someone that would use it. I just don’t want to end up with a pile of transmitters that I can’t use, because both my wife and I use sticks. We already have one wheel type transmitter that came with my wife’s Bugsta.

I’ve got something like that. It has the folding Stanley style blade, plus a normal stainless steel pocket knife blade. Like this one: https://www.powertoolsdirect.com/sealey-pocket-knife-locking-twin-blade I can’t find the exact version I have, I got them (I have 3 of them because they are so handy) from a local shop for £7.49 each.

I am considering buying an Arrma Granite but as far as I can see, you can only get it in RTR. I’d prefer a kit version, but that’s a problem I am prepared to ignore for what looks like a fun truck. The problem I have is that I have absolutely no use for the transmitter and receiver. I have avoided buying cars in the past for the same reason. It just feels like wasted money. I don’t really want to have to go to the hassle of selling the parts I don’t need, but I suppose that if I don’t, I am going to miss out on a lot of stuff. The thing is, are they actually any use to anyone, would anyone actually buy them? And if they did, would they go for a price that makes the bother worth while? They would be in a completely unused condition.

I, too, use scalpels. I have several handles with different shaped blades for different jobs. Couldn’t be without them. Something also worth picking up, if you decide on scalpels, is a blade remover. It is so much safer and less hassle. This one keeps the used blades in an attached bin: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swann-Morton-Blade-Remover-Unit/dp/B00B5NSLZ2 I have just ordered one myself because the remover I have been using for the last few years doesn’t have a retainer, making disposing of the blades annoying.

One of my other hobbies is painting toy soldiers. I sometimes drive my wife mad when I start naming the colours of the more unusually coloured cars when we’re out and about. I always use the current Citadel (Games Workshop) system. I would say that what you used, going by the photo (which may look different in person but I can’t adjust for that), is something like Lothern Blue. What you needed was something more like Sotek Green, perhaps mixed in with some Vallejo Metallic Aluminium. This might sound like useless information, but you can often get equivalents in ready made airbrush colours. Or it is easy to thin them yourself. I have had quite a bit of luck using Vallejo paints on RC car bodies, both clear and hard bodies. The Sotek Green equivalent would be Vallejo Falcon Turquoise. I prefer the Vallejo Metal Colour range, as opposed to their straight Metallics. The metal colour are more expensive, but you get a bigger bottle and they airbrush like a dream. I back all my painted bodies with it and have had no cracking or anything bad. I am going to do some experimenting with inks for making unique metallic colours. Would be handy if it worked.