Stoat_Muldoon

Alright, Just drawn a little diagram So when holding the servo horn still, and steering the wheels by hand, the part circled in red does not move, but the part circled in blue will? If so, then your servo saver is loose. If both parts are moving together then it might be a different problem. To adjust it tighten down the circled part to compress the spring beneath it. Dont tighten it too far, or the servo saver won't be able to do its job and the servo itself might get damaged next time you crash. Just tighten it little by little and test the car in between to see if the problem is improving.

Zig-Zagging while reversing sounds like a loose servo saver to me. Very common for those to act up after a tumble or crash as they can jump their cam, suffer adjustment tweaks etc. The ZigZagging happens because the steering kingpins are angled backwards for a stabilizing effect while driving forwards, just like a full size car. Driving backwards means the front wheels are inherently unstable, and when the servo saver is loose, the forces acting on the wheels can overcome it and steer the wheels, sending it back and forth. When its doing the ZigZag while reversing, do the front wheels steer left to right despite no input on the transmitter? With the car switched off, If you hold the servo horn still and try to steer the front wheels by hand, are they easy to turn without the servo horn moving?

Shock absorber as a servo saver is an interesting choice, could work well. Not sure it was needed but sure is neat. Looks good overall but enough of the angry eyes Jeeps 😆 A triangulated 4-link with a panhard bar seems a bit redundant, maybe making up for flex in components? On full scale cars you only really see a setup like that with parallel 4-link like on a Wrangler, where they need the lateral support.

Nice to see the E-Maxx finally getting a replacement that hopefully won't be prone to snapping in half. Always liked Traxxas' willingness to shrink their designs so faithfully, though amusing that this "mini" X-Maxx is the size of an Hpi Savage 😬 However, trust Traxxas to spin non-adjustable gear mesh as an "innovative" "system"... 🤔

Hopefully this will be Tamiya finally having a solid crack at the recently more popular scaler market. As a big fan of the ugly plastic bucket that is the CC01 I'm very curious to see what they've come up with.

Ah, definitely a weak one then. Not to worry, an LF20 should sort it out.

The PowerHD LF20 is a solid torque-y but cheap servo, whats it got at the moment?

Could be a weak servo, a spongy servo saver or just the CC-01's rubbish steering design. Where the shaft passes through the chassis can add a lot of drag to the steering, might want to check that and grease it if necessary. Wouldn't worry about weight

Nah it shouldn't stress the servo more than normal. What it will to is give the steering linkage a longer arm to twist the servo horn with, potentially causing some slop.

Cured the only issue mt Hpi RS4 Sport 3 had as a rally car: the steering. The issue was the bellcranks were so close to the chassis that dirt would get under them and jam them up very easily. Same with the center link going under the driveshaft. So I turned the bellcranks upside down, lopped off the servo horn from one of them as it would not fit otherwise (and would be useless in its new position if it did), put a link over the top of the driveshaft instead of under, then hooked up my own rather dodgy servo linkage. Not 100% happy with that last part (particularly the 3 nuts worth of spacing between the horn and the link), would prefer to make something that replaces the original method of linking the servo to the cranks but this is the best I could do just with parts on hand. Works well enough for now. 😛

I mean the outer housings that the diffs sit in, and the center gearbox housing, From the pics it looks like you're still using the ones from the 25. On the 25 you basically have to split the chassis to get to your diffs, the X versions open up from the front/rear with just a couple of screws removed. The X center gearbox case can also be split top to bottom if you need to get into that. Worth picking some up to install when you next have it apart imo. You'll need the X upper hinge pin plates but they're compatible with the 25 shock towers and bumper braces.

Really liking how tidy that narrow motor and mount fit in there, curious how the power is going to be relative to a stock .25. I'm not a huge fan of insane power (run all my Savvies on 4s rather than 6, dont use full throttle often etc) so I'm expecting good things 😀 Also would recommend upgrading to X gearbox/diff cases. so, so much easier to work on with those imo.

Flux XL 2.0 out for its first proper bash 😀 They are surprisingly capable trail crawlers, was able to trek through some dense forest litter without many issues apart from the occasional high center and diff-out Oh and one odd thing is despite being advertised as having the Tork 2200kv motor everywhere I can find, mine came with a flux BLX2200. Not complaining as its basically the same but still interesting 🤔

They've had a good run. Still got my fingers crossed that they could bounce back, but each time info like this comes out is another nail hammered down. Will be sad to see them go.

Not new, but they come up used on eBay pretty often. There's a set up right now for £60 and that's a bit on the high end, a mate picked up a set for £40 the other week. Should be alright.

Yeah looks pretty clean, few rusty screws but nothing that would really affect its value beyond what you've described already. If I hadn't already picked one up a few months ago I'd jump at yours no question but alas I can't really justify another one, financially or spatially lol 🙄 Good luck with your sale mate 👍

Good stuff 👍 shame its all moved on but can't complain about an XMaxx as a replacement. The 2350 Alphastar is an underrated gem imo, maybe the ESCs are a little flaky but the the less powerful motor suits the short wheelbase Savage quite nicely. Much tamer, more stable driving experience. Plus that gorgeous blue version of the HP body 🤤

Thanks, its a 3speed and one of my favorite trucks. If you're converting a 25 to electric, I recommend you upgrade to 4 gear diffs. The standard 2 gears diffs will get chewed pretty fast from all that extra torque. Lets see some pics when you can, can never have too much Savage these days 😀

I got mine with a dead motor and no radio gear for £275, but the drivetrain was in good shape. Sounds to me like yours has a bad front diff from your description which would take it down in value a bit. They may be uncommon but they also were never too popular when they were in production, so I guess that's something to consider too. Taking all that into consideration I would say £350-£400 depending on exact condition, extras etc. Also depends on how long you're willing to wait for a sale, could price it higher and eventually someone who is prepared to pay will come along. Got any pics? Curious about the condition.

No problem, hope your nephew (gently) enjoys it!👍

Ah, that's the "QuickDrive" or "QD" version . QDs are essentially Tamiya's old "toy grade" RC line, they were the best toy RC you could get without venturing into the "hobby grade" stuff (like the full size Blackfoot and such, what most people on this forum are into). They don't really have anything in common with their hobby grade counterparts besides name, style and paint job. The QD Blackfoot is one of the less common ones to find these days, and yours looks to be in really good shape. Being driven primarily by younger kids, they would get the snot beaten out of them and most you see for sale are very rough. A nice clean one like this is fairly uncommon. Not crazy valuable or anything but certainly a nice little collectible to the right Tamiya nut. Thanks to their collectors appeal you can occasionally find parts for them on places like eBay if you do find anything wrong with it.

Lets breathe some life into this thread eh?

Can you upload some pictures of the car? There's a couple different versions of the Tamiya Blackfoot (Original, Super/King versions and the QuickDrive not including the modern ones), pics would make it much easier to say which one it is, though pretty much all of them could be considered collectible.